trailering a truck???

[k1rodeoboater]

It looks like I may be coming down on orders in the next 2 or 3 months and I'll need to transport my truck. Depending on where I get sent it will determine if I bring the truck with me or leave it with my folks back in PA.

If it goes back to PA a good friend of mine has offered to come down with his truck and flatbed trailer to tow it back for me. The only thing is...neither of us have trailered a vehicle before. His trailer isn't specifically for towing a vehicle, it's a dual axel flat bed that he loads 20ish 6 man rafts onto. Can that style trailer still be used or will I need to figure out something else? I figure if I cover his expenses it will come out to about what a transporter would cost.

If it comes with me I'm probably going to pay out the ass to rent a Uhaul or similar truck to tow it.

Option C is to look into what it would cost for an auto transporter to move it and have my folks make a road trip down here to pick up all my parts with their truck.

[GMC4wheels71]

A flatbed dual axle will work fine if the deck is good. I only ever hauled on a metal bed so I don't know about wood, but if it's a metal deck you can haul it all over no problem.

Just be sure to strap it down real tight with good straps, don't take any crazy turns, and be careful.

[Altec]

You really need to look at the rating of axles on the trailer, and go from there. Proper trailer brakes are also important. The only other key thing is having a truck big enough to tow the big chebby with.

I suggest reading up on how to properly load a vehicle regarding tongue weight and such, and also investing in good straps.

[k1rodeoboater]

it's a wood deck IIRC. The trailer is only a few years old, he bought it when he expanded his business. I know it's got brakes on it too, a load of 20ish rubber 6 or 8 man rafts weighs just as much as one of our trucks and that's not close to the load capacity. His rig is a late 90's F350 with a turbo diesel.

[too much stuff]

How far do you need to go with it? I would say if neither of you have any experience hauling something like this, get someone else to do it. (unless it is a short haul) Truck and trailer behind you add around 7-8000 pounds!!

[k1rodeoboater]

We've both towed heavy loads before, just never tied down a vehicle before. I've tied down a skid loader with assorted attachments when I worked landscape construction in college, but there it had dedicated tie down points and I didn't care if I scratched/bent something.

Drive distance is about 600mi

[GMC4wheels71]

I'll let someone else answser the wood bed issue, but for tying it down just strap from the axles (all four corners) to the bed. We have a little frame around our bed that we strap to. If you don't have that I'd weld some on right quick. I can't say I'd be OK with tying it to a flatbed without any side rails.

If you decide not to do it you can go on Uship.com and get a shipper pretty cheap.

[k1rodeoboater]

I'll check out Uship.com as well once things start to get finalized.

I know for certain that the trailer has a lip around the edge to hook the big tie down straps we used on the rafts. They're usually stacked about 5ft high with the last few partially inflated or fully inflated.

[Benelli]

I say go for it. Block all four wheels, strap it down all 4 directions with some chains. If he's got a one-ton truck. Just be patient, relax and take it easy when driving.

[Longhorn Man]

buy a towbar and drag it behind your moving van

[GMC4wheels71]

Whatever you choose, take pix please

[k1rodeoboater]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

buy a towbar and drag it behind your moving van

I'd need to disconnect the driveshaft correct?

[treveiger]

The guy i bought my truck from hauled it close to 400miles in a 2500chevy gas truck with a wood floor trailer with a small lip for side rails. He strapped the truck on all four corners without any problems. Two on the axle then two up front somewhere also(dont remember exactly where. Just take a easy and dont forget its back there.

[rambler]

what is the width and length of the trailer? depends on if you can get the truck on it, also will it be hanging out the back of the trailer also if it is too long you have to look at your tongue weight as well.

you dont necessarly have to pull the driveshaft unless it is a automatic tranny, but wouldn't hurt to drop it if you plan on pulling it behind a moving van.

[Stepside65]

Originally Posted by Benelli

I say go for it. Block all four wheels, strap it down all 4 directions with some chains. If he's got a one-ton truck. Just be patient, relax and take it easy when driving.

Did exactly that when I trailered my truck home. Strapped down the A arms up front and wrapped a couple of 5k cargo straps around the back axle. Then just put it in gear if it's a manual and make sure to brake a little earlier.

[Longhorn Man]

Drop the driveshaft, rig up some tail/brake/turn lights and head out. If you end up going this route, I can post how to make a wire harness that will work slick and cost next to nothing, and some tips on tow bar towing.
People get scared of it, but it's been done forever, and still done today. Safe, legal, cheap, effective.
If you tell them that you are triving it, you'll get paid. If you tell them you are dragging it, then it's all out of pocket (this is as of 10 years ago when I got out).

[BarryB]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

Drop the driveshaft, rig up some tail/brake/turn lights and head out. If you end up going this route, I can post how to make a wire harness that will work slick and cost next to nothing, and some tips on tow bar towing.
People get scared of it, but it's been done forever, and still done today. Safe, legal, cheap, effective.
If you tell them that you are triving it, you'll get paid. If you tell them you are dragging it, then it's all out of pocket (this is as of 10 years ago when I got out).

I've used a towbar a few times not as scary as alot of people think. only thing I would suggest is taking it east when turning into gas stations or just sharp corners. And be aware of pulling in where you can pull out, because reverse usually isn't a option.

If there is a harbor freight near by they have those magnetic towing lights on sale periodically for 10 bucks. 20 normally. just a suggestion.

[Z16]

If you put it on the trailer, make sure you check the tie down straps or chains for tightness regularly. I like to do it at 25 miles, 100 miles and then every time you stop for a break.

[k1rodeoboater]

Where can I buy a tow bar and how much do they run? If I go that route I can have my folks drag it with their 6cyl frontier. The tow cap is over 6K lbs IIRC
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[Longhorn Man]

e bay usually has them, any RV sales place, some trailer builders/sales place carry them too.
I got my first one at wal mart 10 years ago. The local wal mart told me they stopped selling them about 8 years ago, but a couple guys on here found them at there local wal marts since then.

[68C15]

tow bars are not hard to make either. I have one I use for my 67.
LHM is the tow-bar king. listen to him.

[Z16]

Originally Posted by k1rodeoboater

Where can I buy a tow bar and how much do they run? If I go that route I can have my folks drag it with their 6cyl frontier. The tow cap is over 6K lbs IIRC
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We had a 6 cyl frontier as a work truck. Trust me when I say it would be a very slow trip pulling a full size Chevy. Also, if that Chevy did start tail wagging, it's gonna pull that Nissan around like crazy. I've towed a lot, and a tow bar is good as long as the towed vehicle is no heavier then the towing vehicle. I say you also need the power to get yourself out of a problem, especially if you dont have trailer brakes
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[Liz]

Originally Posted by 68C15

tow bars are not hard to make either. I have one I use for my 67.
LHM is the tow-bar king. listen to him.

Yes, Andy and Jeff have been tow barring trucks forever.. There are a bunch of posts around here somewhere from years ago about it.

[1974ChevyC10]

I may need to be towing a truck here soon about 200 miles give or take and since i dont have a tow trailer or tow dolly nor do i know of anyone that would let me borrow one would it be safe to use a towbar to take a 78 LWB Heavy Half Chevy which will(most likely)not have an actual engine and trans in it but in the bed of this truck or the one towing will be transporting a 250I-6 and a GM 3spd(whatever came stock in a 78 C10 3ott truck) and it will be towed down from 7000ft elevation to around 1200ft elevation(from flagstaff,az to phoenix,az).The truck that would be towing it most likely would be my other 78 Heavy Half Chevy.Not only would the I-6 and manual trans be part of the load one way or the other but i would transporting some of my other personal belongings too.Is all of this safe to do with a towbar or is it better and safer to go with a tow dolly or tow trailer.

[JimmyFloyd]

Not sure about flat towing a truck, but my dad has towed a lot of vehicles for friend, including my 70 3/4 4x4 suburban and my 70 Blazer 4x4. He has a dedicated car trailer though, but depending on what your buddies trailer looks like, if it is rated for the weight, and long enough, it should be fine.

here is a picture of the suburban being towed by a 99 K1500 suburban with a 350.


One thing to remember, is trailer length will plat a large part is towability too. I believe my father's trailer has a 20 foot deck (atleast 18') on it, and as you can kinda see, we had the suburban back so it was centered over the wheels of the trailer. This reduces the tongue weight of the trailer, and reducing the wear on the trucks suspension, as it is doing more towning and less carrying of the weight this way. (You'll notice that the truck isn't squatting, even though it is actually almost undersized for this size load) We towed this truck 120 miles roughly, with several good hills too. The truck/trailer have trailer brakes setup, along with anti-sway bars for the hitch setup, which I feel is a must for towing something this size.

As for tying it down, we have two tie downs at the corner in the front and two in the rear. When the truck was put on, we looped two ratchet straps over the axle on each side, and hooked them up to the close side loop and ratcheted them down tight. If you have a smaller trailer, you can criss-cross them if you have a place to loop them on each side where they won't slide.

Once the front it tight, we put the ones on the back and tighten them down there. This pulls the truck back, and also tightens the fronts as well.

As stated, i would stop after 10, another 30, and then every time you stop (make it a habit) to check the straps. This picture is actually after 5 miles of driving, right before we got on the interstate. We also put the truck in gear on the trailer once it was tied down.

I would be weary of the u-haul trailers as they tend to be short and won't allow you to adjust the load

Hope that helps. Any pictures of your buddies trailer? There should also be a load rating plaque on the frame of it somewhere.