Flatbed owners question.

[CG]

So Ive been following 68bowtie with his very cool flat bed build. I like everything about the bed. But Id like to see other ideas on the base of the flatbed just in case there is another way I may like more.

What are you using to fill in the brown area? Pics would be great!. How are you mounting it to the frame, and how are you using the upper part of the fill area to mount the cross sills?

Ill be using 16 inch rims, his are 19.5. I really want to be able to keep it low and useable as possible, but don't want to put something heavy on there that would cause the tire to hit the bed. Course maybe I'm worried about nothing there. I have no idea how much weight that would be.

I think I would like to use the rear of the frame rails for mounting the cross sills to help keep my bed low.

Link to his build in case you missed it. I borrowed a pic of his truck for my illustration ... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=770878

[kwmech]

I layed a piece of 2x3 box tubing .250 wall on the flat and marked out where all the frame rivets were and drill holes so the tubing would lay flat on the frame rail, then bridged it forward using the factory frame holes and some folded 4'' flat and used 5/8'' bolts to secure it. I'll get more pics later, this is an old picture

[Chevyland]

Wood is the filler
These pics are on a bed that was done back in 72

[Chevyland]

These are on the flatbed I just got
Mounted a bit different
But wood is still the filler
There is never metal sitting on metal
It seems as if the wood acts as some sort of cushion ?

[burnin oil]

You can do it either with wood or steel. I prefer the steel then run a chunk of steel vertically to connect the 2 frames. This is solid and the bed doesn't move around as much and also makes the frame more rigid. The wood filler tends to shrink or rot out causing the ubolts to be loose. This in turn let's the bed shift around. Just about all the flatbeds I have been around with wood filler had a bent or rusted frame where a ubolt was attached. Another thing I have noticed is that the ubolts almost always rust after a few years so you can't just tighten it all up very easily.

There are two schools of thought on moisture. If it gets between the steel it will rot. I think this is more of a concern for big trucks with double or triple beam frames. Then there is the wood holds moisture against the steel camp. My flatbed has had a steel deck directly mounted to the frame for 12 years now and I don't see any rust yet. A side benefit is that you can directly mount a goose neck hitch or tie-downs to the deck if its bolted to the frame. If its wood then you are securing the load to the bwd and not the truck.

[CG]

Very good pictures and comments so far. Lots to think about.

[Killer Bee]

wood is still the industry standard mounting for flat racks and stakes..

frames are designed to flex, welding or bolting additional rigid structure to them can causes cracks and frame failures..

one of the reasons resilient or elastomeric mounts are commonly used elsewhere..

utility bodies, dumps, ASLs, etc. are occasionally leveled and mounted with steel and thinner resilient materials like rubber or delrin..

[Getter-Done]

Okay CG
I finally found the picture I been looking for too respond.

As Killer Bee stated.
A sheet of thin Delrin would be a great Idea if you use wood.
If you treat the wood/Paint the all-thread rod after installation.
It will last a long time.
If you are going to put a gooseneck or fifth wheel hitch,
Mount it directly to the frame.

Here is my truck set-up when I bought it.
1st picture is the wood direct to frame rail.
2nd is the damage it left behind.


















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[burnin oil]

Don't use all thread. That stuff is about as strong as balsa wood.

If I wasn't to lazy I would post up a few pics. I can snap one of my flatbed steel mount and I have a 68 dump with the bed off it right now with the horrible steel frame mount. I could also snap a 57 flat dump farmer install or 51 mack semi that has the fifth wheel wood mounted. I just never figured out how to post pics on here. I can email them if someone wants to pm me an email address for posting.

[burnin oil]

Getter done, curious what does it looks like back by the rear axle. That is where I usually see them damaged. Usually I see a crushed frame rail there or rub damage. Usually the fronts just work loose and flap around.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

Don't use all thread. That stuff is about as strong as balsa wood.

If I wasn't to lazy I would post up a few pics. I can snap one of my flatbed steel mount and I have a 68 dump with the bed off it right now with the horrible steel frame mount. I could also snap a 57 flat dump farmer install or 51 mack semi that has the fifth wheel wood mounted. I just never figured out how to post pics on here. I can email them if someone wants to pm me an email address for posting.

I will add a little more info about the all-thread rod I would use.
Yeah the stuff you get at the
Big Box Stores is Low grade material.
For this Application If you choose to mount with all-thread,
I would use High strength C33 Rockwell hardness in the link below.
There all different lengths available.

Link: https://www.mcmaster.com/3313N38-3313N38













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[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

Getter done, curious what does it looks like back by the rear axle. That is where I usually see them damaged. Usually I see a crushed frame rail there or rub damage. Usually the fronts just work loose and flap around.

The frame is luckily not crushed.
I would not mount the bed the way they did for sure.
Here is a couple of pics.
There is rust damage on the back also.
With my project / the frame is getting modified anyways .
so no big deal to me.


















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[burnin oil]

Is that an extra chunk of C channel welded to the frame? Its kind of hard to see on the phone but it looks like a booger weld across the frame rail but could be dirt also. The rails look good but that extra metal definatly has some pitting.

On edit. Is that a frame extension. Sorry just trying to visualize what you have there.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

Is that an extra chunk of C channel welded to the frame? Its kind of hard to see on the phone but it looks like a booger weld across the frame rail but could be dirt also. The rails look good but that extra metal definatly has some pitting.

On edit. Is that a frame extension. Sorry just trying to visualize what you have there.

PO added about 2' to a 157" frame

Original frame outlined in red.
C-channel circle in blue


















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[burnin oil]

That happens alot more than you want to know. Look on the right side. They didn't Bob it at the spring perch. What did it have an 11 foot deck? Other than parking lots that extra length is nice. You can keep a spare tire and tool box up front and still have room for 4×8 plywood. An 84" CA sure rides better than the shorter 60"CA.

[CG]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

PO added about 2' to a 157" frame

Original frame outlined in red.
C-channel circle in blue
Attachment 2015818

Attachment 2015819

On the 157 inch wheel base C30's that were motor homes I think the motor home manufacturers added that extra couple of feet. I know mine had it and Im pretty sure 68bowtie also had it on his. I believe I read in his thread where he lopped it off. Mine was lopped off by previous owner that removed the rotted motor home.

[allchevy58]

This is my 64' it had a cattle rack on it since new. 64' parts truck was all wood and had a cattle rack on it. Last picture is what I did after taking off the cattle rack.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by CG

On the 157 inch wheel base C30's that were motor homes I think the motor home manufacturers added that extra couple of feet. I know mine had it and Im pretty sure 68bowtie also had it on his. I believe I read in his thread where he lopped it off. Mine was lopped off by previous owner that removed the rotted motor home.

Yeah I remember that
















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[Stephen717]

Originally Posted by burnin oil

Don't use all thread. That stuff is about as strong as balsa wood.

Balsa wood when used to build structures (by middle schoolers) has been known to hold upwards of 1,300+ lbs.

[BLAZERMAN]

There was a factory option steel cover for the gap where the frame kicks up. It really makes for a clean look.

[cangim]

I like the wood filler look and want to add a mimic of our cattle brand growing up. So want to keep it clean as possible. This is what I have come up with. 3/8” grade 8 to attach to frame, 6 on main deck, 4 for the filler bracket(2 per side). Plan is to rip 2x4 same as decking to fill space, seal it same color when I get to that point.

[72supr]

Originally Posted by cangim

I like the wood filler look and want to add a mimic of our cattle brand growing up. So want to keep it clean as possible. This is what I have come up with. 3/8” grade 8 to attach to frame, 6 on main deck, 4 for the filler bracket(2 per side). Plan is to rip 2x4 same as decking to fill space, seal it same color when I get to that point.

Looking nice.Yep,every ranch has got to have a brand.

[Richard2112]

I used 1/8 inch tube steel and zinc plated grade 8 bolts

[CG]

With 68bowties thread and the excellent response on this thread so far Im really glad I was able to get my (72 Cheyenne Super) C30 157 inch wb back. Its getting its pass through fixed now. Still wont be able to get it home for two or three weeks, but Im actually looking forward to something again.

[burnin oil]

Originally Posted by Stephen717

Balsa wood when used to build structures (by middle schoolers) has been known to hold upwards of 1,300+ lbs.

That is true but remember those airplanes we played with as kids. They would land in the grass and snap a wing. Same here. The threaded rods will hold alot of wieght until tension is put on the threads and they pull or a side load bends the rod. They snap really well. I have been around a ton of them used for duct work, pipes, and electrical conduit in commercial applications.

CG, once you get under there you will figure it out quickly. Go with what's easy. If you plan to do alot off hauling and strapping loads I would steel mount it. It is way easier to make tie downs. I strongly suggest a rub rail either way for easy tie downs. Adding a few recessed D rings would be a great idea too. Don't forget to add stake pockets. Flatbeds are realy nice but you have to plan ahead or they are almost worthless. A good design is worth its wieght in gold and can be used like a truck bed or flat deck with a few minutes of adjustment. On mine it is setup with a single 2x6 at deck level to keep things from sliding off. I can remove those or add the sides for bigger loads. Your gas mileage will never be great in this truck so do it once and over build the bed.