Caster and shackle

[chris989]

Hello All,

This it it, I am fed up with my steering. 89 v2500 350, 400t

I installed my new PSC gear box and that part steers great. I have New DREs, TREs, rag joint, ball joints. The truck still has play. Is this just the nature of the beast? Today I even got out my dial indicator and measured in 1000th any play between the gear box and the steering arm. The rotation of the shaft instantly measures on the dial although 10degrees of rotation only measures a few thousand at the pitman arm

Here is the question; What is everyone running for caster? The factory setting is 7.5-8.5. I am running 10.5 degrees with a 2 inch tuff country spring. I was at 6.5 so i added the 4 degree shim.

Has anyone replaced the shackle to the frame bushing, or upgraded this bushing and noticed any significant improvement?

I have not measured any play in the slip joint opposite the rag joint. It feels tight. Has anyone replaced this joint and noticed an improvement?

I only went 2 inches of lift for now so i can still fit in the garage. I had plans to regear, go higher and build a motor but i am getting tired of the driveability and can't see wasting more time and $


Any response is greatly appreciated,
Chris

[INSIDIOUS '86]

4wd? A lot of reman steering boxes actually surprisingly are still sloppy that and 4wd will be a lil more sloppy than a 2wd counterpart.
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[Keith Seymore]

I think your caster setting is appropriate.

I can't comment on all the other stuff.

K

[chris989]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

4wd? A lot of reman steering boxes actually surprisingly are still sloppy that and 4wd will be a lil more sloppy than a 2wd counterpart.
Posted via Mobile Device

It is a box from PSC. I can turn the wheel back and forth without power assist. I though it was the box but the dial indicator detects movement in an instant although it is small.

[chris989]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

I think your caster setting is appropriate.

I can't comment on all the other stuff.

K

When i had a 2wd crewcab i remember setting the caster higher than specs because it would not steer straight. I do not know what the shop set it at.

Do you know what you are running on yours? should i try adding 2 more degrees?

[Keith Seymore]

You could try another 2 degrees but I doubt you would see much difference.

If you are at 10 degrees you are already almost double the production spec.

I don't own a 4wd but my experience comes from fixing customer problem vehicles that dealer's couldn't fix. We would crank the caster way up (10 or 12 degrees) in order to help with on center feel and straight line stability.

K

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by chris989

It is a box from PSC. I can turn the wheel back and forth without power assist. I though it was the box but the dial indicator detects movement in an instant although it is small.

There will always be some slop with a recirculating ball type box no matter how perfect the build. Rag joints also create much slop. How much can the steering wheel be turned before the pitman arm actually moves .5-1in movement is a tight box.
Posted via Mobile Device

[chris989]

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

There will always be some slop with a recirculating ball type box no matter how perfect the build. Rag joints also create much slop. How much can the steering wheel be turned before the pitman arm actually moves .5-1in movement is a tight box.
Posted via Mobile Device

THe wheel can move from center 1.5 inches to the left and right. A total off 3 inches or more. At the gear box, measured at the rag joint, (new and tight) the rotation is about 1/2 inch. When i make this rotaion back and forth I do get a reading on the dial indicator but it is about .005 measures where the DRE mount to the pitman arm.

I will call PSC again to ask.

Chris

[blakeduren]

You can install a steering shaft from a late 80's early 90's Jeep XJ. It will be tighter because it has u-joints instead of rag joint. It collapes in the middle for safety. It makes a huge difference. I took one out of a junk yard and it helped big time on my old Blazer.

[chris989]

Originally Posted by blakeduren

You can install a steering shaft from a late 80's early 90's Jeep XJ. It will be tighter because it has u-joints instead of rag joint. It collapes in the middle for safety. It makes a huge difference. I took one out of a junk yard and it helped big time on my old Blazer.

I am considering that option, I ran u-joints in my old cj and liked them. Yesterday put a 1/4 turn on the input shaft and the truck is better by a mile. before I adjust anymore, I will hunt for a new column.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

Originally Posted by chris989

THe wheel can move from center 1.5 inches to the left and right. A total off 3 inches or more. At the gear box, measured at the rag joint, (new and tight) the rotation is about 1/2 inch. When i make this rotaion back and forth I do get a reading on the dial indicator but it is about .005 measures where the DRE mount to the pitman arm.

I will call PSC again to ask.

Chris

That seems excessive. I'm unsure if the box was adjusted quite right or even built right.
Posted via Mobile Device

[wraprail]

Originally Posted by blakeduren

You can install a steering shaft from a late 80's early 90's Jeep XJ. It will be tighter because it has u-joints instead of rag joint. It collapes in the middle for safety. It makes a huge difference. I took one out of a junk yard and it helped big time on my old Blazer.

Astro van also works well. Upper and lower u-joints and collapsible. Much improvment

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by wraprail

Astro van also works well. Upper and lower u-joints and collapsible. Much improvment

Good to know. Thanks for the info.