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04-28-2005, 01:11 PM | #1 |
Senior Moment
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Pittsburg Ca
Posts: 4,090
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Looking at A1 Electric Windows Any Input?
I'm considering installing the A1 electric windows in my truck. Has anybody had any experience with them? Any problems or recommendations?
http://www.a1electric.com/index.htm
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1970 CST LS 1 6 speed Ford 9 inch Detroit Tru Track, Dakota Didgital, Vintage Air, QA1 Coil Overs Front & Rear Lots of FUN 2013 GMC PU, Oldest Son 71 GMC LWB. QA1 Suspension, Angry SB. Youngest Son 2019 GMC Diesil Dually. Youngest Son 2017 Toyota SUV Daughters car 2018 Traverse , Wife’s Ride Pittsburg Ca 94565 |
04-28-2005, 02:42 PM | #2 |
Nothing fits but the oil
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Gaston, Indiana
Posts: 424
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Stay tuned. I have the A-1 kit and will do an install starting next weekend. I ordered the square switches (you know old school GM looking) and plans are to fab up mounting insid the armrest pulls so I can retain the cranks in their position. I will post pics, and details. I am impressed with the tech article, parts and pieces.
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Land of the free Because of the brave |
04-28-2005, 07:15 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Southern California
Posts: 14
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Just bought a kit.
I live close to A-1 and stopped by to look before I bought. Fortunately I mentioned that I had a one piece window in my truck and the guy told me that their kit would not work. I had to buy the "universal" hot-rod kit that uses the cable drive. I have the door all apart now and it appears that there will not be enough room for the regulator to clear the window. The instructions say that you need 1 inch clearance. Doesn't look like to me that I have that much. Anyway I am going to play with it a bit and see if I can get it to work. If not, I understand that Brother's Trucks has a regulator that works with the one piece window. It is a bit pricey though at over $400, but if that's what it takes........
I'll keep you posted. |
04-28-2005, 10:04 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Evergreen, CO
Posts: 494
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As promised...
Well, they say a picture is worth a thousand words. My apologies to the dial-ups… following are about 10,000 words.
This first set of pics shows the A1 regulator and the Auto-loc crank switch. I fabricated a couple of plates to mount the switches directly to the regulators. There is just enough room for the switch to fit in the right position without the regulator gear hitting it at full extension. There is also just enough space for the switch between the regulator and the vent window channel. Luckily, The spade connectors for the wiring ended up facing forward in the perfect orientation. I had to shim the switch on the regulator slightly to set the switch shaft perpendicular to the door; otherwise it wants to point down a little bit.
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71 Blazer / GMPP ZZ383 / MPFI / 700R4 / 4-Wheel Disk / Ground-up frame off almost completed resto-mod |
04-28-2005, 10:05 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Evergreen, CO
Posts: 494
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... and a few more
For the door loom, I used 5/8” rubber loom that I bought quite a while ago from a hot rod supply place… (sorry, can’t remember from whom now). I drilled oversized holes in the door and A-pillar and installed PCV grommets, then ran the loom through the grommets. I lined up the hole in the A-pillar with the existing hole that was inside the cab for the courtesy light wiring. I had to open up the existing holes under the dash to ~5/8” to fit grommets large enough for wiring both the power windows and power door locks. I actually drilled these from the outside in because I had already installed the AC box and parking brake). I also ran an extra set of wires to the regulator motor so that I might possibly wire switches in the center console in the future.
The trickiest part of the install was getting the side window and vent windows in. It’s a little nerve racking with fresh paint. I taped up the exposed paint for protection and basically lucked out in the end. I first installed the regulator with the switch, finished the wiring (I used 4-wire weather pack connecters on the window wiring for ease of future removal/maintenance) and wired the power door locks. I then installed the window seals and jam side channel. I dropped in the window, front side first and caught the front roller. There was just enough wiggle room to get the rear roller in with the window shoved all the way forward. With the window rolled all the way down, I unbolted the jam side channel and slid the window all the way back to make room to install the vent window. Then I installed the vent window, shoved the side window forward and bolted back up the jamb side channel. I just took my time and kept thinking it was worth it… it really was much more of a ***** than installing the windows with a stock regulator. Vualla… Resto-mod doors!
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71 Blazer / GMPP ZZ383 / MPFI / 700R4 / 4-Wheel Disk / Ground-up frame off almost completed resto-mod |
04-29-2005, 09:58 PM | #6 | ||
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Evergreen, CO
Posts: 494
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Quote:
Quote:
I tried different positions for the crank handle and settled for straight up. It feels the most natural that way. I wired it so when you pull back it goes down; push forward it goes up... sort of lilke a toggle on a late model door switch. I also hate it when the crank handle bumps your knee... this way it's out of the way.
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71 Blazer / GMPP ZZ383 / MPFI / 700R4 / 4-Wheel Disk / Ground-up frame off almost completed resto-mod |
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04-30-2005, 11:57 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 8
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Work great
I've had a set installed about 5 years now and love them. Never did an install like this before, but I just took my time and everything came together. I didn't know about the crank switch, so I purchased some momentary rocker switches and mounted them in some chrome hole plugs I picked up at the hardware store. I wired them up and popped them in the crank holes, work great. I've got a suburban and couldn't find a kit for the rear windows, so I took a pair of the A-1 regulators and moded them. Took off the toothed plates that attache to the scissors and welded the factory ones to the A-1 scossors. windows roll up fine, but leave a couple of inches of glass exposed in the down position. Overall they work great, it looks like I updated the truck so the children can't climb out on the freeway.
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04-29-2005, 09:53 AM | #8 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DFW TX
Posts: 769
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Quote:
I have the regular a1 regulators on my one piece windows and they work fine. Im not the only one on the board who has used them. You must have got some bad info, they work fine. |
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04-28-2005, 04:40 PM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Evergreen, CO
Posts: 494
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I just finished installing the A1 kit with Auto-Loc crank switches. It came together really nice, but was a little tricky to install because of the way I mounted the crank switches. I mounted the switches to the A1 regulator brackets and installed the regulators in the door. Getting the glass mounted on the regulator (with the regulator already mounted) was the tricky part. Now that it's all together... pretty cool. Looks totally stock. My passenger side window is just a little slow rolling up, but all the window seals are brand new. I think it will free itself up with some time. Otherwise, I may have to trim back the seal slightly.
There is a previous thread with pictures of the install (if search comes back up). I'll post a few pics when I get home if there is any interest.
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71 Blazer / GMPP ZZ383 / MPFI / 700R4 / 4-Wheel Disk / Ground-up frame off almost completed resto-mod |
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