The 67-72 One Ton Brake Booster Swap Guide ***PICS***

[Burt4x4]

The mount too the boster is the same but would I do that...no, mainly cuz I wouldn't want an old master on my new booster. Remember too the 1Ton master is plumbed opposite of the 1/2 ton. Read that paragraph under the last pic in AJ's post^^^^
You can get a new master for like 30bucks at Autozone. Worth the peace of mind too me

Oh and you can buy replacement brake lines that go Master too Pvalve from inlinetube.com for like 25bucks and they fit perfectly.

[tawd77]

Originally Posted by Burt4x4

The mount too the boster is the same but would I do that...no, mainly cuz I wouldn't want an old master on my new booster. Remember too the 1Ton master is plumbed opposite of the 1/2 ton. Read that paragraph under the last pic in AJ's post^^^^
You can get a new master for like 30bucks at Autozone. Worth the peace of mind too me

Oh and you can buy replacement brake lines that go Master too Pvalve from inlinetube.com for like 25bucks and they fit perfectly.

So, your telling me I should replace my brake master cylinder, that was replaced less than a year a go, and works perfectly, because I put a new booster on? That makes no sense. If its isnt broke, Im not going to fix it. If the master cylinder does go out, I will be replacing it with a 1/2 ton master cylinder. The brakes work twice as good as they did before, so there is no need for the 1 ton master cylinder. It just makes it a pain, to have to switch brake lines around....

[swyfor5]

Or-- you could just buy the whole setup from one of our fine boardmembers here like I did. 1 Ton booster, 1 Ton master cylinder, prop valve for 4 wheel disc brakes, brackets, rod, boot, etc. Yet to be installed, but one sweet looking setup! Tried to post some pic's, but computer is not cooperating right now, need some help, will post up asap.

[swyfor5]

Here's some pics!

[tawd77]

Originally Posted by swyfor5

Here's some pics!

That a good looking unit! But all I was trying to say is, If your booster goes bad, and there is nothing wrong with your master cylinder, its possible to just swap in a 1 ton booster, and it will work properly, and greatly improve your braking.

I had no reason to replace the brackets, master cylinder, proportioning valve, etc... That would have been a huge waste of money.. $90, and my brakes work better than new!

[trukman1]

Originally Posted by tawd77

So, your telling me I should replace my brake master cylinder, that was replaced less than a year a go, and works perfectly, because I put a new booster on? That makes no sense. If its isnt broke, Im not going to fix it. If the master cylinder does go out, I will be replacing it with a 1/2 ton master cylinder. The brakes work twice as good as they did before, so there is no need for the 1 ton master cylinder. It just makes it a pain, to have to switch brake lines around....

If you have a M/C that works great then, well, great. I would like to caution members about buying the rebuilt units. I bought a rebuilt unit and was driving down the road with working brakes most of the time but sometimes I'd go to stop and no brakes! I replaced that M/C two more times, (warrantied for life deal) same thing. At this point I'm thinking it has to be something else. Local mechanic asked if I was buying rebuilt units...yup! He said to buy a new unit and, walla, brakes worked fine. He said as the units get old the bore wears. When the units are rebuilt they are not re-bored and fitted with a larger piston, just the O-rings and seals are replaced. He said that it can cause the piston to hang-up in the bore and the fluid to pass around it giving you...no braking power. Bought a new unit for only $10 more than the rebuilt and no more problems. Just thought I'd let people know so they can avoid the problem I had. YMMV.