S10 Swap how to

[iowaboynca]

Moderators- When Sarge completes this can we get a sticky? Maybe in the builds section...

Thanks.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by iowaboynca

Moderators- When Sarge completes this can we get a sticky? Maybe in the builds section...

Thanks.

Good idea.

mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.

[mel knippson]

im curious to know what is wrong with the threads that have , bagged, lowered, or slammed in them ... i just posted my first thread and it has bagged in it .. i understand you dont like the style , but we need help just like anyone else .



mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.
__________________
Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by mel knippson

im curious to know what is wrong with the threads that have , bagged, lowered, or slammed in them ... i just posted my first thread and it has bagged in it .. i understand you dont like the style , but we need help just like anyone else .



mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.
__________________
Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry

Funny... very funny.

[joedoh]

for anyone wondering how to move the stock 4.3 or want to install a sbc, and dont think you want to build the super simple engine mounts skymangs shows, I have recommended and just recently installed for the first time the universal weld in engine mount crossmember from speedway motors. It comes with two new motor mounts and is $75.

to keep the motor at the same height as stock, I ended up with the tube almost exactly 1/2 way over the frame then boxed in the open end. you can measure from the center of the original mount to the center of the new mount to get the right amount of move, mine is moved 10 inches because its a 41 going on the frame, measure your own to be sure. also, dont forget to offset about an inch to the passenger side for steering shaft clearance, and install the mount at a 4 degree down angle. you dont have to level the frame, just put an angle finder on the middle part of the frame and note the angle, then install the motor mount with 4 more degrees down to the rear

IMG_7385 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7415 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7418 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7437 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

what about the trans? what if you dont want to section your original or dont have it?
speedway makes one of those too. get the one with the 4" drop, I got the 2" drop and it wasnt enough for exhaust.

Messages Image(4025115421) by Joe Doh, on Flickr

you might need to cut the center of it out to fit a later trans mount.
IMG_7408 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

it comes with two triangle mounts, but so does the engine crossmember, if you use them all on the trans mount you have a removable trans mount, easy peasy.
IMG_7453 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


if you order them at the same time you get free shipping, and its under $130 for both WITH new engine mounts. you can build them like skymangs shows and its not very hard and is defintely cheaper, but I spent more time at homer derpo getting the parts to make my own on the last truck than I did installing BOTH of these

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by mel knippson

im curious to know what is wrong with the threads that have , bagged, lowered, or slammed in them ... i just posted my first thread and it has bagged in it .. i understand you dont like the style , but we need help just like anyone else .



mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.
__________________
Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry

Not to argue against your preference, but I've had some decent success on this forum in getting information for my favorite...bagged s10 chassis swaps. There's even a thread of sweet pictures here:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=517098

The nice part about an Internet community is you can ignore anyone you want no matter how loudly they type

I'm currently working on putting an accuair e-level and firestone bags on my S10 swap. Be happy to share my mistakes and research with ya.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by mel knippson

im curious to know what is wrong with the threads that have , bagged, lowered, or slammed in them ... i just posted my first thread and it has bagged in it .. i understand you dont like the style , but we need help just like anyone else .

mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.
__________________
Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry

I'd be curious to know where you get your entitlement? An FNG with 10 posts, 0 contribution to date, and you're calling out a long standing and contributing member?

There's nothing wrong with coming on here and asking for help but before you act like you own the place and start telling everyone how it is you need to put in your dues. Learn, share, show us how you got it done, what your experience taught you, and what you've ****ed up so we don't **** it up too. Then maybe, we, or at least I, will give a **** about your opinion.

Sorry to hyjack the thread, rant done. Please, back to "S10 Swap how to".

[joedoh]

guys guys, settle down. as a new guy he didnt get his quote right, he was quoting a MOD on the first or second page, who had deleted a couple of mr48s posts in this thread about what a stupid idea s10 swaps are.

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

Good idea.

mr48chev, anyone who's been on this forum for any length of time is well aware of your opinions of lowered or frame-swapped trucks. You don't need to seek out these types of threads to keep reminding everyone.
Just a suggestion; when you see a thread titled "bagged" or "lowered" or "slammed" or "S10 swap" DON'T CLICK ON IT.

it was a long time ago, everyones moved on since.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

guys guys, settle down. as a new guy he didnt get his quote right, he was quoting a MOD on the first or second page, who had deleted a couple of mr48s posts in this thread about what a stupid idea s10 swaps are.

it was a long time ago, everyones moved on since.

Ahh...it looked like he wrote it. Well, in that case I retract my rant, somewhat, not sure why it was brought up though.

I will agree that there are a lot of different styles and builds on here and you don't have to like them all but should be respectful of other peoples work, unless they're doing something really stupid like a Toyota Prius swap, actually, I might tune into that.

[Speedysdad]

Couple quick questions:. ( Remember, my first build. Appreciate all input.)

With the engine hanging in the truck, the pan is about 2.25" above the front crossmember. It really can't be lower, my v8 s10 conversion headers will hit the a arm on the pass side. The carb mounting surface is about 1* high in front, again, to clear the header. I can't raise the tranny anymore without raising the cab, it's pretty close to the floor at the tranny rear(1.5") and I have cut out all of the firewall that I want. I don't want to tunnel the whole cab. I could tunnel the middle where it dishes down under the seat, but that looks like the driveshaft won't have a lot of clearance at the back of the cab under weight. I would consider installing another 1/2" spacer on top of the cab mounts, if necessary. So, does this sound like I am in the ballpark of where I should be.

Second question:. I am about 4.25" off of the frame to the bottom of the floor, not mounting surface, the floor. Will I have problems lining up the fenders and hood with my radiator support with the 19"x22" radiator in it if I leave it here. I am working on the radiator support now. I know rasing the cab would fix all of this, but my dad is in a wheelchair and I need it to be low. Will not use airbags.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Speedysdad

Couple quick questions:. ( Remember, my first build. Appreciate all input.)

With the engine hanging in the truck, the pan is about 2.25" above the front crossmember. It really can't be lower, my v8 s10 conversion headers will hit the a arm on the pass side. The carb mounting surface is about 1* high in front, again, to clear the header. I can't raise the tranny anymore without raising the cab, it's pretty close to the floor at the tranny rear(1.5") and I have cut out all of the firewall that I want. I don't want to tunnel the whole cab. I could tunnel the middle where it dishes down under the seat, but that looks like the driveshaft won't have a lot of clearance at the back of the cab under weight. I would consider installing another 1/2" spacer on top of the cab mounts, if necessary. So, does this sound like I am in the ballpark of where I should be.

Second question:. I am about 4.25" off of the frame to the bottom of the floor, not mounting surface, the floor. Will I have problems lining up the fenders and hood with my radiator support with the 19"x22" radiator in it if I leave it here. I am working on the radiator support now. I know rasing the cab would fix all of this, but my dad is in a wheelchair and I need it to be low. Will not use airbags.

Sounds like the cab is set a little too low if you're having issues with header clearance. 4.25" is about as short as they come for clearance. I had a couple of pages in my build where I tried different heights and ended up settling on something like 5" from the top of the frame to the rail that supports the mount. Its a lot easier to change your mounts than it is to try and shift everything around to fit a lower cab.

If you're trying to get a low ride height, that is easier done with drop spindles than trying to lower all that sheet metal around the engine and trans. The S10 swap motor mounts are pretty much going to set the engine in place without much leeway on height or placement. Some of the builders on the forum do custom motor mounts to have more options.

On the bolts for the radiator, I just chopped mine off after seeing the same problem with a 19x22" radiator. There are so many other bolts holding the radiator and sheet metal on, I figure those ones are optional. I may go back and just install a couple short carriage bolt style ones from the radiator side with the flat head and tack weld them so they don't spin.

[KRFitz]

Help needed with a few general questions in swapping '51 chassis with a 2001 S10. Can I use the S10 radiator, or will it be way to wide to fit? How about using the air conditioning? Can the S10 condenser and evaporator by fit into a '51? Thanks,

[mel knippson]

it looked like he was putting down the bagged , slammed ect, i really didnt mean anything by it , and i also did not realize how many people were a part of this group and how many questions are asked every day , and how it takes very Special people , to answer people questions for free and give a crap .. i do apologize i have been searching thru these threads and having a little bit of a hard time . and didnt realize i was calling anyone out or especially someone that has contributed so much to this AWESOME group ..