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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 877
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Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
Glad to hear that you're going 4L80E rather than a 60, not sure how well a 60 would do in a crew cab.
Looking forward to seeing more of the build.
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1973 C20, 350/350 |
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#2 |
GEARHEAD
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 6,120
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Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
I think the 60 would be fine actually. If you compare the weight of the vehicles they are surprisingly equal. Like within 100-200 lbs compared to a newer suburban. But I'm glad I found the better tranny for it.
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If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 ![]() 72 ![]() HG's Plow Truck '78 ![]() Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Waskatenau, Alberta
Posts: 259
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Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
Nice Crewcab. You mentioned you need back doors..... I wonder if the back doors from a Suburban are the same? Probably more common than crewcab doors...
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#4 |
GEARHEAD
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 6,120
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Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
They are, which is why I'm getting it. He says the doors are good, but I haven't seen them yet. And since it was already EFI and newer tranny I may be able to use other things off it, like the speedo. I think it might be electronically driven rather than cable.
__________________
If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 ![]() 72 ![]() HG's Plow Truck '78 ![]() Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 877
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Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
60s aren't even known for their longevity in F bodies, but I'm sure it'd be fine if you drive like a granny
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1973 C20, 350/350 |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Waskatenau, Alberta
Posts: 259
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Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
Cool..... Suburban's are great parts vehicles..... I have three ripped apart at my farm. Too bad you are so far away..... I have one with mint rear doors,complete with the electric windows & locks. A case of beer would getem....
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#7 |
GEARHEAD
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 6,120
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Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
Yeah, too bad. Move closer.
__________________
If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 ![]() 72 ![]() HG's Plow Truck '78 ![]() Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff |
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#8 |
GEARHEAD
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 6,120
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Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
I haven't been able to do a lot of truck work, or home repairs, or a lot of things over the last 6 weeks or so. I was having a great time drifting the ATV around the driveway until it caught an edge and threw me off. I was able to scramble away before it rolled over on me but I still ended up with a broken collar bone and 3 broke ribs. It's healing, but I'm getting older and the healing gets slower each year. So I'm still in a sling.
And I started a new job a couple weeks ago. I had been working as a part time inspector (full time hours) but they made me the western region manager now so I get benefits, a car, etc and a bunch of new responsibility. Wasn't looking for that but I tend to take opportunities when they come along. I also found a 69 GMC shortbed in a friends backyard for my son to have as a project. He (my friend) got it because he wanted the bed for another project. So we struck a deal for the truck without the bed. It had been sitting for about 3 years or more but he drove it to it's parking spot. He managed to get it running and delivered it to us a few weeks ago. ![]() ![]() The carb was clogged, so we swapped another one in. Runs and drives and stops. Wanders the road like a drunk clown, has rust in the usual spots, has no options beyond the heater, but it's fixable. We found a step side bed for it. ![]() ![]() And I have been accumulating 67/68 chevy front sheetmetal for it. That's what he wants. He just graduated from auto body school and has a job working at a hot rod shop. He was replacing the door glass in that 55 the other day... ![]() He assembled that rolling chassis the week before... ![]() Part of his graduation gift from me is a cab repair kit to fix the rust, and I will try to find some good tires for it. He's paying for the truck himself. Now as for the 79, we got the sheetmetal off the front and the engine/tranny pulled out. That's a 90 suburban parts truck by it. Donor doors with power windows and locks. ![]() Got it on the engine stand and taught him how to disassemble it and inspect for damage. Other than a worn crank timing gear, most of the bearings and worn piston skirts it looked ok. No idea why it wouldn't start but I think it was the distributor. The cam timing marks were still alignment. I'm a little worried about the crank. The engine had been rebuilt before and the crank has been ground already to .010 and .020. The journals need a little work so I hope there is enough meat there to clean it up and still have proper bearing clearances. ![]() ![]() ![]() Yesterday we stripped most of the accesories and stuff off the 5.3. It needs a good cleaning. I'm still deciding whether or not to crack the engine open for a quickie rebuild and head swap. But for now I'm just trying get the tranny mated to the engine and see how it'll fit. I bought a new flexplate with the spacer needed to mate the torque convertor to the flexplate and a set of engine mount adaptor plates. The boy had some where to be so being partially disabled, I had to stop at this point. Also, I don't have the torque convertor bolts or the bolts for the bell housing to engine. ![]() I'd like to get these wheels from detroit speed but they don't list an 8 lug option. I emailed them to see if they would make some, so we'll see. There are a couple other wheel builders out there to check with also. ![]() I wanted to keep the brown and cream 2 tone, but the boy is pushing to go family truckster on it. Green with wood grain vinyl wrap... ![]() I have a set of rebuilt 241 heads. They are slightly better for flow than the truck heads, bigger valves and as mentioned, rebuilt. They also have a larger combustion chamber which will drop compression a bit. I figure if I go with the new heads I'll put a new cam in. And if I do that I might as well do rings and bearings, which is why I'm debating this. Do I want the added work and cost or just drop it in, get it running and move forward? I will need exhaust manifolds or headers and either a new harness or modify the original, get the computer reprogrammed, etc. Still a lot of work to do.
__________________
If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 ![]() 72 ![]() HG's Plow Truck '78 ![]() Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff |
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#9 |
GEARHEAD
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: MN
Posts: 6,120
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Re: HG's Bigass Farm Truck
My 2003 Yukon Denali has over 215,000 miles on the 4L60 in it. Seems alright. It's awd and weighs a lot more than any F body so has a little more strain on it than a car. I'm not planning to race the farm truck.
__________________
If no one knows what you're doing, they can't tell you you're doing it wrong HG's Dream Car Build - Shelby Cobra Kit Build your own adjustable track bar 71 ![]() 72 ![]() HG's Plow Truck '78 ![]() Bigass Farm Truck HG's thread of miscellaneous stuff |
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