57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[FAKKY]

3 layers of soundproofing down -ready for 4th layer of matt.


Tank done today by welder - will drill out the holes ready for pump/sender.

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

3 layers of soundproofing down -ready for 4th layer of matt.

I used a similar approach, the interior sound level was drastically reduced. I think you are going to like it

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by Black_Sheep

I used a similar approach, the interior sound level was drastically reduced. I think you are going to like it

[FAKKY]

Tank drilled out with 1.5" drill and for the 4.5" I just used my plasma cutter worked ok.



Assembling both the sender and the fuel pump 2 small issues.
Sender bolts too short due to the 1/8th thick plate.

Pump didnt come with a return line (plastic) even though meant to. I have some line lying around but not sure if fuel safe - anyway to know if no markings ?

1 is oil cooler line thats a little big but might work with a clamp ..... other is this



So off to buy some fule safe gasket/cement and some more nuts and maybe fuel line.

[FAKKY]

Laying out harness

[FAKKY]

Pulled this out of teh cupboard today just to see what it looked like. I should have gone shorter ... but hadn't bought the headers and was worried about going to short.
Might just have to piull it back 1" more than I want - or look to do some aftermarket fab.







Anyone used clearcoat on theirs - hold up ok ?

[FAKKY]

Hate when the simple stuff turns out to be a the biggest PITA

[joedoh]

column looks good!

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Hate when the simple stuff turns out to be a the biggest PITA

thats the law of projects buddy.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

column looks good!

thats the law of projects buddy.

Just funny how the things you think will tak 30 mins take 3 hours. And the things you thnk will take 3 hours ...... well still 3 hours HA HA

Got the fuel in and out lines to the corvettte filter done ....... just going to pressure test them though. I can 100% say it doesnt work like the videos. You have to cut back the outer sheathing and trim the steel wire slightly away from the ferrule else there's too much interference to get them to join.

Blue/silver parts here are ust the start of parts for pressurising.

[FAKKY]

Pressure tested to 80psi.



Installed

[FAKKY]

Practising TIG ...... its a LOT of fun.

Deciding on stainless or aluminium for exhaust.

[joedoh]

pretty!

[dsraven]

fakky, will you need to connect the 2 ends of the tank to the middle so air can vent from the area as the tank is filled? will fuel be able to get up in that spot without letting the air out as the fuel level rises? you have that covered and I just missed it prolly.

[joedoh]

nice welds! I would love a TIG, looks like you got the hang of it

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

nice welds! I would love a TIG, looks like you got the hang of it

Thanks.
I really enjoyed learning TIG welding as part of all of this and can mostly run an OK bead.
TIG is a whole another animal. But its even more fun. Stainless is the most fun .... but backpurging is an issue as Im not really set up for it which means a seperate tank or a dual feed regulator.

The machine is awesome for the price. ID recommend.

https://ahpwelds.com/product/ahp-alp...01xd-pre-order

[FAKKY]

Can someone lnnk me to a good thread where someone documented the front clip sheet metal (remove and/or install) .......

I marked my pieces .... but still not 100% on alignment and what needs to be cutout based on new IFS.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Honestly Im not sure.

It sort of looks like thin carpet/matt thats been flipped and glued. Then spray painted black. Ill try and pay more attention if I can give you a better idea.

Thanks!

[FAKKY]

Well .... the $50 dollar steering coupler I bought a year ago isn't going to work.

[FAKKY]

Think I'll need to change with 2x u-joints .... one to push away from the headers towards frame and one back in.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-DD-to-3-4...pe!33708!US!-1

or

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-3-4-DD-...oAAOSwnCxasyEs


and

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-DD-X-3-...ss!33708!US!-1

[FAKKY]

Cleaning up the inner fenders for some por15.

How do the fenders attach to the outer firewall area ??




Looks like staples or something ?

So guessing best way is just small stainless or painted bolts/nuts and drilled ?

[dsraven]

the fenders bolt to the cowl on each side at the rear. the front ends have fender extensions which the inner fenders wrap around and bolt up to there. there is a couple of bolts at the top of the rad support on each side which attaches to the fenders. there is a cross bar that goes below the grille as well and bolts to the inner fenders at the front lower part. the inner fenders bolt to the tops of the fenders and there is also an L bracket on the lower part of the firewall that uses a rubber bushing in the inner fender and they bolt up there. the staples are to hold the rubber edge seal that keeps road dirt out of the engine bay and keeps any metal to metal contact from happening should there be a problem with body flex over a speed bump or side hill or if the rad support bushings get so bad things move around a lot.

[FAKKY]

Thanks DSRAVEN.

I did a little mock mockup on the table out the back and with what you said that made more sense. Goign to need to find out the radiator support bolt sizes and make some spacers. Think that stuff is long gone.

https://www.ebay.com/i/152395180513?chn=ps

[FAKKY]

So .... been literally fighting this for 2 days. Mixture of seperate DD shaft size and differnt rotations of the ujoints. Anyone got any tips ?



Have a regular u joint at the R&P end.
Have a 1"=>34/DD double ujoint at the steering end to get around the header tube.

Then I have an extra regular ujoint and a another double ujoint. I have 2 DD supports as well.

Problem is every time it rotates it moves enough to bind either on the nuts like near the upper control arm ...... or somewhere else. I ordered another 18" 3/4 DD to see if I can bypass 1 joint .... but there are 2 turns.

1 at the steering side to get around the 1st header and then swing back.
1 at the steering side which wants to go direct under the 1st header at its end also ... so have to go around that. Dont see how to go higher or lower.

[MiraclePieCo]

Speedway sells steering u-joints that are much smaller diameter than those - would that help give you a straighter shot?

Otherwise you may have to modify those headers.

Another option is to relocate the base of the steering column closer to the cowl.

Slight concern that headers will boil the grease out of those bearings that close.

[FAKKY]

Thanks Miraclepie.
Yes - I was planning on probably putting heat wrap on the headers anywhere where there is close to contact with the ujoint if I have to.
I think part of problem is I need to try a straighter run ..... and lose a joint.

Just rally struggling with the double joints as the sort of flex in the middle (as they can) if everything is not 100% lined up and supported. So almost impossible to mock up. Literally been at this for 4-5 hours each day yesterday and today. Ready to push it off the edge of the pier.