HVAC Guys-Need Some Advice

[Ironhorse]

Might know it, we're currently topping out in the triple digits with LOTS of humidity and Gee, the upstairs AC unit decides to take a dump. Not surprised, have had it for some time, probably 8-9 years or more. How come they never quit when temps are in the mid-80s? 110 volt window unit, worked well for the size (8,000 btu) but now, no more. Anyone who can recommend a GOOD 110 volt window unit? Upstairs is about 450 sq ft, give or take a few. As I have usually found out with most things, Good isn't cheap, and Cheap isn't good. Expect to spend decent $$ for a decent unit. Thinking would like to step up to at least a 12,000 btu or maybe 15,000 even. Higher than 15,000 would think need 220 volts and only 110 volt is available upstairs.

[Richard]

I would suggest not to stress on name brand. All the manufacturers source the least expensive parts they can get to build their products, even the big names. You will find the same parts from different sources in the same unit depending on the manufacture run. Most failures in A/C products are due to installation. This is not so much a problem with window units as it is more or less like buying a fridge or other self contained appliance. All AC units still use the same technology from when it was first designed. More money usually just means more bells and whistles and better warranty. Every place I worked at since 1982 decided equipment to be sold based on profit margin and manufacturer support. If you are handy pop the unit apart. May be something as simple as a run capacitor.
Edit- Yes more capacity would not hurt. I am sure some may disagree but in my personal opinion 400-450 sq ft per ton (12,000 btu) is in the maintain category for a constantly conditioned and well insulated home. If you are interested in messing with the unit PM me and I will give you my cell.

[notsolo]

Bought a 12000 btu Toshiba about a yr ago works well. Quite. HD had it about $400. I don't disagree with anything Richard said, seems to be a crap shoot with most appliances..Good Luck.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

The reason why most acts crap out in heat is the amount of time they run per hour of use. Or how ever you want to define it.

You, and your wife in the house with 80* outside air temp. It may only need to run 15 minutes a hour to keep temp on the high end.

On a hot day it may need to run 45+ minutes a hour to make temp. Toss in high humidity, and honestly capacity drops a good bit. So it may now never shut off.

If the unit is low on charge the compressor overheats itself on hot days. Thus kills itself just when you needed it most. Due to much superheated or the suction line not being beer can cold.

Personally stick with name brands equipment. I do commercial AC so I am not up on all the home owner sub brands. But in my section of the world Trane is tops with the least amount of problems. Yes cost more upfront, but saves pretty well in the 5-7 year range. By 10 years your going to be replacing something or another.

[Dead Parrot]

Several of my friends got together yesterday and were surprised at how well the host's new 10,000 btu AC was keeping the room cool. The box said GE but the made by said haier or similar China factory. He said he paid around $420 at the local Lowes.

Downstairs room with two large south facing windows and the entrance door. OKC weather from noon to about six. Seven of us in the room.

No clue on durability. He picked it up in the last two weeks. 120V.

If this is a long term house, might look at one of the mini-split units.

[Ironhorse]

Thanks for the replies and info. Will be looking locally tomorrow and see what is available. Want at least a 12,000 btu, 14-15,000 would be better. Would like to do a mini-split heat/air but don't those all require 220 volt? No 220 upstairs and would be a hassle to do. Don't use the upstairs a lot during the winter and do have a couple room heaters for that if needed. House is long term for sure, (I hope anyway, LOL) Only residence, two acres, 35 x 50 retirement playhouse and all paid for.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse

Thanks for the replies and info. Will be looking locally tomorrow and see what is available. Want at least a 12,000 btu, 14-15,000 would be better. Would like to do a mini-split heat/air but don't those all require 220 volt? No 220 upstairs and would be a hassle to do. Don't use the upstairs a lot during the winter and do have a couple room heaters for that if needed. House is long term for sure, (I hope anyway, LOL) Only residence, two acres, 35 x 50 retirement playhouse and all paid for.

On a mini split the 220V goes to the condensing unit. Then the line set, and power cord go to the air handler portion.

[burnin oil]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Several of my friends got together yesterday and were surprised at how well the host's new 10,000 btu AC was keeping the room cool. The box said GE but the made by said haier or similar China factory. He said he paid around $420 at the local Lowes.

Downstairs room with two large south facing windows and the entrance door. OKC weather from noon to about six. Seven of us in the room.

No clue on durability. He picked it up in the last two weeks. 120V.

If this is a long term house, might look at one of the mini-split units.

We just had one die a few days ago. Lasted about 3 years. On the GE 12000 btu it's a good idea to pull the cover and enlarge the drain holes or you have to walk by every couple of days and push a stick through the drain. You will actually hear the fan hitting water after awhile. The thermostat can be a little wonky also.

[Richard]

No doubt a mini split would be much nicer than window unit. Quieter and more efficient (less operating cost) up to 12,000 btu available at 110v. As mentioned, note that in almost all cases main power is routed to outdoor unit and a multi wire power cord is routed to indoor unit. I have installed many of the no name brand units. They do not seem to be any less reliable than the big names like Mitsubishi which IMO is way to proud of their stuff. A 12,000 btu heat pump unit can be found in the $600 range. Note that a line set and high voltage power is needed as well as other installation materials. You also would need knowledge and specialized tools to install one correctly. Cost on a mini split can be underestimated especially when farming out the work. Expect 3-5K, name brands will exceed that.

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by Richard

No doubt a mini split would be much nicer than window unit. Quieter and more efficient (less operating cost) up to 12,000 btu available at 110v. As mentioned, note that in almost all cases main power is routed to outdoor unit and a multi wire power cord is routed to indoor unit. I have installed many of the no name brand units. They do not seem to be any less reliable than the big names like Mitsubishi which IMO is way to proud of their stuff. A 12,000 btu heat pump unit can be found in the $600 range. Note that a line set and high voltage power is needed as well as other installation materials. You also would need knowledge and specialized tools to install one correctly. Cost on a mini split can be underestimated especially when farming out the work. Expect 3-5K, name brands will exceed that.

Richard,

A mini-split is in my future for A/C in my garage/shop. I've got easy access to 220 and my budget will be $2000. I intend to do most of the install myself with a unit that only requires a vacuum pull then a release of the refrigerant.

What brands/units would you recommend?

-klb

[Richard]

Originally Posted by weq92f

Richard,

A mini-split is in my future for A/C in my garage/shop. I've got easy access to 220 and my budget will be $2000. I intend to do most of the install myself with a unit that only requires a vacuum pull then a release of the refrigerant.

What brands/units would you recommend?

-klb

Will send PM. Do not want to mess with Ironhorse's thread.