Restoring Rusty

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by Wgesnerjr

Gregski,
I am interested in cleaning my truck's bolts the same way you have discovered. Would you mind sharing your vendor? Ace hardware is getting expensive.
Thanks for all your documentation. Reading Your thread has become my morning ritual.
Carry on McDuff!

Naval Jelly works for dissolving rust from bolts. It is an alternative vs buying all new. Give it a try. Or just buy Phosphoric acid. The Jelly worked great on my door jam switches.

[Gregski]

How do you prevent the hood from popping up at 75 MPH on the highway?

You install a second hood latch!!!

No just kidding, I had to buy a second one cause the big spring broke in mine.

Funny story actually. Originally my little spring was broken, so I bought a used baby spring at a junk yard, then after I painted my latch I noticed now my big spring was broken, so I thought that's strange, how could I have missed that, and why would I have painted a broken latch (it's all riveted so it's hard to just replace that big spring)

So I bought a second latch with both good springs. And so I dipped this one in a light bath of water and Phosphoric acid (like a 25 to 1 mix) to take the rust off and a day or two later I go to take it out, and its all shinny and rust free, but low and behold the baby spring is half gone, the acid must have ate it... which is what I think happened to the big spring on my original latch.

So are springs made out of some type of different metal that does not respond well to acid baths?

[Gregski]

what, this is boring?, I know right, well the point is there was a ton of work in this radiator core support replacement Willy, and you know what they say the devil's in the details... but hold on, we are almost done, I promise...

*** Added a TABLE OF CONTENTS to the very first post with the Thread Numbers. ***

[Gregski]

with the belly of the hood re POR15ed I thought this was a perfect opportunity to try out my Summit thread chasing set, and it worked great, though I didn't know if I was supposed to lube it with something or not, so I used what I had some good ol' trusty WD40

The Greg is trying to do things right, trying to do it right, that's all

[Gregski]

I even managed to get that big hood release spring back in while keeping the scratches in the new paint well within the recommended tolerances, ha ha

not too shabby if you ask me

[Gregski]

one last thing I had to do before putting the hood back on was to take a stab on troubleshooting that ticking noise as it was driving me crazy and preventing us from hearing that wonderful Flowmaster note (yeah remember we got a new exhaust on...)

so we took the distributor cap off of that ProForm H.E.I. unit, and wiggled it to see if there was anything a loose in there, and nope, it seems solid

[Gregski]

this exposed the white rotor, so we pinched it between our index finger and thumb and wiggled it a bit back and forth and it seems like there is a bit of play there and it's not as tight as we expected or would have hoped for

so we took the white rotor off to take a peak underneath, and I gotta tell you this entire weights and shafts and cams conglamoration is loose like a goose, I mean it aint gonna come apart and granade itself but it clunks and tings and pings when I wiggle it

so I took some white lightning grease and using a tiny flat screw driver lubed it up some, now I don't think I is supposed to do that as it will probably fly right off, but a few dabs here and there at least to keep it quiet during a test drive would be a win, would help us pin point the culprit

but no, the tapping noise is still there, mostly on accelaration now, but I am still convinced it's coming from that distributor

I just wish I had a stock OEM GM factory HEI distributor to wiggle to compare it to, I have said this before, we learn tons from staring and comparing, and in this case tandem wigglin'

Gentlemen I believe a GM Chevrolet Performance H.E.I. distributor part number 93440806 will be on our door step early next month in a brown box with the words Summit on its side, as the finance minister won't allow it this month, ha ha

[Gregski]

f i n a l l y

[rusty76]

It was a big block but I've noticed on your intake there is one plug. One that is directly over the water pump bypass connection. I just wondered if you could've used that spot or not. I'll see if I can get you a pic of the one on the truck at work. I replaced that hose a few years ago and it was a little bit of a bear. But we got it at autozone or advance auto one of those two. They're a tight bend but doable. I was just curious. Truck is looking great all together.!

[rusty76]

Here's a shot of what I was talking about. You can kind of see what I was talking about. Sorry about the pic. Not the greatest. But it goes from the water pump to intake. Piece of hose is four or five inches long. Maybe 1/2 inch heater hose I guess.

[rich weyand]

4000th post! 4000th post!

Truck looks really good, Gregski. Congratulations on getting it all back together.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

4000th post! 4000th post!

Truck looks really good, Gregski. Congratulations on getting it all back together.

Yup, you nailed it, and thank you very much, it took some doing but you all know that.

[Gregski]

... a little air cleaner nonsensical progression

[Gregski]

gentlemen now that I have rebuilt the top end, got the Vortec heads on there, and the whole engine is looking cleaner, I find myself paying more attention to things and going through and making adjustments and fine tuning things

One question I have is regarding the Holley 4160 carburetor throttle cable linkage, I have noticed that in its current position I am not opening up the throttle plates all the way seems like I can go about an inch more, so should I move the linkage to the round hole towards the front of the carb, see pic

I think Holley sales a special adapter/stud to go in that hole to move the cable there

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by Gregski

One question I have is regarding the Holley 4160 carburetor throttle cable linkage, I have noticed that in its current position I am not opening up the throttle plates all the way seems like I can go about an inch more, so should I move the linkage to the round hole towards the front of the carb, see pic

I think Holley sales a special adapter/stud to go in that hole to move the cable there

I've always used the location in your picture halfway between the red circle and red arrow, where some type of connector is installed.

But if that's a no-go, then here's what you're looking for:
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...age/parts/6026



You will also need a longer ball stud with 1/4" threads. One in this kit should work.
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...ies/parts/20-2

[MikeB]

Whoops, I was wrong about the hole I've used. My 6-cyl throttle cable wasn't long enough, so I used a Lokar cable and bracket that I had in the shop. Lucky I wasn't able to sell it at a swap meet!

[Jeramy]

mr gasket part# 6026. its how we have my dads 57 belair ran,

2 piece bushing. Flat one goes in from the back side and your stud runs through it to hold 2 halves together
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...age/parts/6026

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jeramy

mr gasket part# 6026. its how we have my dads 57 belair ran,

2 piece bushing. Flat one goes in from the back side and your stud runs through it to hold 2 halves together
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...age/parts/6026

thanks also found this one

[Jeramy]

yep all you really need is the washer parts

[Gregski]

decided to mess with the fast idle as it was reving as high as 2600 upon the cold start procedure

here its shown at 2200

[Gregski]

basically you are supposed to turn that screw counter clockwise to bring the RPMs down, well that's all well and good except the screw is in there all upside down and who knows what clockwise or anti clockwise be, so basically just loosening it or unscrewing it makes the RPMs go down and screwing it in makes them go up, (in theory)

you see I spent a few days trying to tame this little rascal, see the most you can turn that screw is half a turn at a time cause the carburetor and such is in the way, so what The Greg would do is use a 1/4" box wrench and give it a 1/2 turn (as much as possible) then start the car and see where she idles, then the next day, (after a proper cooldown of the enjin) I would turn her another 1/2 turn and see where she RPMs

and after playing that silly gave for a day or three, I said enuff is enuff and I unscrewed that darn screw flat all the way as far as it would go without falling out, I had to see where it would RPM with it all the way out, you know the extremes from one end to the other, and I gotta tell you that even all the way out she still RPMs at above 1200, see there the pic

well I wouldn't be writing about this if it don't surprise me none you see, cause now I need to turn the screw back in some to get that 1500 sweet spot, but it aint all as easy as them marketing guys make it out to be, especially for such a small tiny little screw

[hatzie]

1200 is a little low. I usually set Fast Idle at 1500-1800 RPM and Curb Idle at 700-800.

You should be able to swing the fast idle cam over the adjustment screw and set it even after she warms up.

[Gregski]

so from all the way out to half a turn in I think I dialed in my Fast Idle to around 1500 RPM

[Gregski]

Gentlemen I only know two things for sure about these old trucks:

1. They a leak.

2. If they don't a leak, they is out of fluids!

[Gregski]

time to get this situation rectofied real quick

now some of youz might ask now Greg why didn't you replace that output shaft seal when you had the transmission out and on the workbench, and to you I say... [who made you guys the efficiency police, lol, ha ha] it's so much more fun doing it on the truck, well under the truck well under the now lowered truck

first we go out and git the a proper single purpose seal puller "guaranteed not to mangle the old seal as you pull it" we'll see about that