Daverods 52

[99 to Life]

Iv read that water cools better than antifreeze, plus depending where you are at, its mad cold nowdays. I think the problem is somewhere else, too much advance can run you hot. Poor water pump or slipping belt. But I'd rest her at idle and see what she does. Also you have a mechanical fan on it or E fan?

[Strodder]

Quoted from Antifreeze Facts.
"Antifreeze is added to your radiator. Antifreeze keeps your radiator fluid from freezing when it is very cold and keeps your car from overheating on very hot days. Antifreeze is commonly ethylene glycol and is designed to lower the freezing point and to raise the boiling point of the radiator fluids."

But it still can be something else. Hard to diagnose with out being there.

[padresag]

there are different factors that can be involved and 210 can be normal depending on the amount of lbs pressure from the cap
a 50/50 mix of e/glycol with raise the boiling point 18 degrees F . for every lb pressure on the cap the boiling point will raise 3 degrees. it could also be the guage, or i should say the way that it readsin a newer vehicle at that temp it would more than likely read normal.
if you have a 15lb cap and 50/50 a/f your system wouldn't boil until it reached 212 + 18
+ 45 = 275 degrees F so 210 would be in the normal operating range
ron
do not confuse the normal boiiling point of water at 212 with what you have under pressure.

[99 to Life]

padresag, great point. I run a 16lb cap, I feel most aluminum rads being offered come with a 16lb cap. When I ran about 25/75 mix I rarely ever went over 185 with a 185 stat, then I when I added more antifreeze (not sure of the mix now) I'm usually around 190 on average now. Hot days I have gone up to 210-220, which never happened the year before when I was running 25/75. I just wouldn't feel comfortable starting out at 200+. The cap pressure can be extremely high but if your running hot and need more pressure to stay away from overheating, I'd be worried. Again, I'd check temp at idle and make sure you are within cam suggested timing. I'd also check your balancer to make sure it is reading tdc and then double check timing. I'd eliminate every variable I could. I'm sure the engine is fine, but having the piece of mind on what its doing and how it responds to your changes is a great feeling.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by 99 to Life

padresag, great point. I run a 16lb cap, I feel most aluminum rads being offered come with a 16lb cap. When I ran about 25/75 mix I rarely ever went over 185 with a 185 stat, then I when I added more antifreeze (not sure of the mix now) I'm usually around 190 on average now. Hot days I have gone up to 210-220, which never happened the year before when I was running 25/75. I just wouldn't feel comfortable starting out at 200+. The cap pressure can be extremely high but if your running hot and need more pressure to stay away from overheating, I'd be worried. Again, I'd check temp at idle and make sure you are within cam suggested timing. I'd also check your balancer to make sure it is reading tdc and then double check timing. I'd eliminate every variable I could. I'm sure the engine is fine, but having the piece of mind on what its doing and how it responds to your changes is a great feeling.

back when these vehicles were built cooling capacities were larger, but as time progressed radiators became smaller with smaller front openings compared to earlier vehicles. this is why the pressure was increased to adjust the boiling point(operating temperatures) upwards
ron

[99 to Life]

good point. daverod. what is your cooling system? sorry if I missed that somewhere, that is why I asked if you were using fan or EFan and what is your rad?

[daverod]

I have water in it. Running a electric fan.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by padresag

there are different factors that can be involved and 210 can be normal depending on the amount of lbs pressure from the cap
a 50/50 mix of e/glycol with raise the boiling point 18 degrees F . for every lb pressure on the cap the boiling point will raise 3 degrees. it could also be the guage, or i should say the way that it readsin a newer vehicle at that temp it would more than likely read normal.
if you have a 15lb cap and 50/50 a/f your system wouldn't boil until it reached 212 + 18
+ 45 = 275 degrees F so 210 would be in the normal operating range
ron
do not confuse the normal boiiling point of water at 212 with what you have under pressure.

I'll dump it all and put in 50/50. Snow day here so maybe maybe I'll get somthing done. Nothing done so far. Lots of thinkin

[OrrieG]

Check the actual temp and compare it to the gauge reading. I got a little worried when my Chevelle started "over heating". Turned out the gauge or sender has decided to read 15 degrees high (mechanical VDO 12 years old), so now I just do a mental adjustment. I have a commercial restaurant grade dipper tester that I use (do not use your wifes candy thermometer).

[daverod]

Originally Posted by Strodder

Quoted from Antifreeze Facts.
"Antifreeze is added to your radiator. Antifreeze keeps your radiator fluid from freezing when it is very cold and keeps your car from overheating on very hot days. Antifreeze is commonly ethylene glycol and is designed to lower the freezing point and to raise the boiling point of the radiator fluids."

But it still can be something else. Hard to diagnose with out being there.

What are u waitin for. I'll set up a cot in the garage.

[daverod]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Check the actual temp and compare it to the gauge reading. I got a little worried when my Chevelle started "over heating". Turned out the gauge or sender has decided to read 15 degrees high (mechanical VDO 12 years old), so now I just do a mental adjustment. I have a commercial restaurant grade dipper tester that I use (do not use your wifes candy thermometer).

So where would I put my wifes candy thing?

[daverod]

Right now the temp sender is in the head? That's right.right

[Strodder]

Originally Posted by daverod

What are u waitin for. I'll set up a cot in the garage.

That's all I'm worth. At least the couch. : haha:
Posted via Mobile Device

[daverod]

when I mounted my fan on the front of the rad I strapped it to some crossbraces I welded in front in the rad. I'm pretty sure I need to ditch the braces and put my fan right up next to the rad.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by daverod

Right now the temp sender is in the head? That's right.right

It will read hotter in the head.I put them in the intake manifold close to the thermistat.

[mknittle]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Check the actual temp and compare it to the gauge reading. I got a little worried when my Chevelle started "over heating". Turned out the gauge or sender has decided to read 15 degrees high (mechanical VDO 12 years old), so now I just do a mental adjustment. I have a commercial restaurant grade dipper tester that I use (do not use your wifes candy thermometer).

My dad had the same problem with the peterbilt He replaced 3 radators in 2 years one cost over $1000 Then this spring the guage started reading all over the map. He replaced the guage and ....Problem solved!!!

[99 to Life]

yeah lots of factors here. thermostat, fan, rad, pump, the mix (Oh don't forget to just leave the rad cap off while it heats up so you can purge the system of air, you might be gettin an air pocket) again though, I'd check timing and make sure your not running too advanced. Also get her to idle and see what she is doing. the thermo in head could def be giving you a different reading. However, I run my efan temp sensor in the head and actual temp gauge from the intake, its about 185 on a cool day, hotter day about 190. I have a 185 stat and fan kicks on at 185.

[daverod]

My timing was messed up. I did'nt plug the disy whern I set it at first. Pluged it set it at 4 bdc. Mounted my fan right next to the rad. Also drilled some holes in the front of the rad. mount/hood latch area. Moved my temp sender to the heater plug right next to the thermo. All problems solved. Runs and sounds sweet. I should get my lens for my cam this week so I'll post so pics.Stilll working on brake lines/trans lines.

[Strodder]

[99 to Life]

great man, glad it all worked out. Get us some pics or a youtube link, better yet, lets see this boiii on the road. feels good solving a problem. nice to have some input from the board too. good luck.

[daverod]

Had my trans lines hooked up wrong. Swapped the lines top to top/ bottom to bottom da.. Now it does'nt make a funny noise every time I fire it up. Had to adjust my shifter linkage abit. Wasn't quite in park.. The front was on jack stands, almost a big time slam. Hooked up my tv cable and carb linkage. Unbolted my rear axle just need to set my diff,weld the perches and about a hundred other thangs.

[not2oldchevy]

Originally Posted by daverod

Had my trans lines hooked up wrong. Swapped the lines top to top/ bottom to bottom da.. Now it does'nt make a funny noise every time I fire it up. Had to adjust my shifter linkage abit. Wasn't quite in park.. The front was on jack stands, almost a big time slam. Hooked up my tv cable and carb linkage. Unbolted my rear axle just need to set my diff,weld the perches and about a hundred other thangs.

How did you have the trans lines wrong???? I didn't think it would matter.

[daverod]

I guess you want the coolest fluid going into your trans. Coolest is on the bottom. The other thing is the pump drains every time if is hooked up wrong. Not sure about that last part but thats what it sounded like.

[99 to Life]

interesting, I'll keep that in mind if I ever deal with an auto tranny. Hopefully I don't ever half to though. Wait I will on my 53' belair cause that will be for me and my gal. I wish I could get her to wanna drive a stick! Can't wait to see this beast on the road. Keep chippin away, its coming together.

[daverod]

I don't think I'll be driving my 64 much when I get this thing on the road. My parents think it's just for parades. They think I should paint it and get rid of the keg. Some people just don't get it.