Got a bed kit today and assembly tips would help

[Peanut74]

I got a new fleetside SWB bed kit today and I am looking for tips on assembling it. I would like to get it right the first time.

Things like,
Should I epoxy primer all the parts then assemble them or wait until it is all assembled?

What seam sealer should I use and when?

Anything else I need to be aware of.

[franken]

Define bed kit.
Assemble or rather mock it before paint.
Paint it first. Dud. Do you love rust?
Pretty sure google can suggest seam sealer.
Think.

[FRCvette]

Check this out for sealer.

https://i.ytimg.com/an_webp/CbuvdY0l...P4XAz2dtMhFAcw

[Lanman1972]

I would suggest a complete assembly of all parts including the tail gate. Once you have all the holes aligned and everything fits together, then tear it apart and start the prep and paint work. Both of the bed assemblies I have used took some work to fit together. Hope this helps.

[Peanut74]

Well the bed kit is a complete kit. What that means it has the metal bed, headboard, tailgate, wheel wells and bed sides. Sounds like I will need to put it together first to ensure everything fits together. I was hoping that the bed kits were better than the repop rocker panels and floor pans I had to deal with. Let the unboxing begin. Hopefully it will be easier than fixing the rust spots on the cab.

[projectking]

Hopefully it’s not from LMC...the sides I’m working with now absolutely suck

[hugger6933]

Set up the floor then front panel then the sides bolt all loose until all together. Make X measurements with your tape to assure square. Like measure from left front to right rear, then measure the exact opposite if the number is right your bed is stupid close. You can move those numbers by shaking a couple panels just a little time moving stuff around you will learn real quick.
The X measurement is one of your best friends you can and need to use this method to set the cab properly, align the front cap so the hood fits and of course putting the bed together. Good luck have fun, Jim

[mrein3]

Consider this one more vote for bolting it all together, fixing stuff that isn't right, make sure it is square, then take it all apart again.

When I did my metal floor, long box, I sprayed epoxy first. Then color. Then I had a really good friend whom I trust help me put it back together.

Put tape on edges during re-assembly in areas you think you might scratch.

If two guys can do it with a real box (an 8 footer), you should be able to handle a shorty as well with you and a friend on re-assembly.

FWIW, I bought one re-pop box side. I had to cut the spots welds off the little about 3" wide angle bracket on the back stake pocket and lower it some. It was over three eighths of an inch high from China.

Oh. And if you are gonna run a spare tire carrier, don't forget to mock that up on your first assembly of unpainted parts. I know a guy that forgot to do that and now he is afraid to drill holes in a nice, freshly painted box.

[Peanut74]

Mrein that's quite the shot to my neither regions. LOL
My bed came from Southern Kentucky Classics and the parts are marked as Woodall. As far as quality of the parts I will need to get with you on that.

So based on the feedback I should:
Put the box, unpainted, together.
Ensure that the box is square by measuring the diagonal.
Once square take it apart
Prime and paint
Tape edges as needed as put together

[ItWillBeSlow]

Originally Posted by Peanut74

Mrein that's quite the shot to my neither regions. LOL
My bed came from Southern Kentucky Classics and the parts are marked as Woodall. As far as quality of the parts I will need to get with you on that.

So based on the feedback I should:
Put the box, unpainted, together.
Ensure that the box is square by measuring the diagonal.
Once square take it apart
Prime and paint
Tape edges as needed as put together

I can't help with your original question, however I plan to purchase this same bed from SOKY in the future and assemble and paint myself. Please keep this thread updated with your assembly method and what your thoughts are on the bed quality.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by Peanut74

Mrein that's quite the shot to my neither regions. LOL
My bed came from Southern Kentucky Classics and the parts are marked as Woodall. As far as quality of the parts I will need to get with you on that.

So based on the feedback I should:
Put the box, unpainted, together.
Ensure that the box is square by measuring the diagonal.
Once square take it apart
Prime and paint
Tape edges as needed as put together

Sorry. I was just having fun with the age old question on this board, what's better a short wheel base or a long wheel base truck?

In all seriousness, I'd do like you have listed. I did it that way and I'm happy I took the extra time. For the primer step put the word epoxy in front of it. I love that stuff. It sticks.

Painting stuff apart gets paint, and more importantly epoxy primer, into spots you can't reach when assembled.

I even went so far as to fillet the used bedside I re-used, wire wheeled off the rust. Used PPG acid rust converter chemical. Sprayed epoxy in there. Welded it back together. Then painted it.

100 years from now that bedside is going to be standing upright in a junk yard when the rest of the truck is gone.

[saxart]

How does the thickness of that bed floor compare to the original one?

[Peanut74]

Well I didn't put a micrometer on it but feels as heavy as the old one. I had three other people help put it in place. Easy lift for four a bit of a challenge with two.

EDIT:
I went out and measured the thickness of the steel. The battery in my electric micrometers was dead so I used my plastic ones. So here is what I found:
Bed; 0.050" or 18 gauge
Cross Members: 0.075" or 14 gauge
End or Back Cross Member: 0.090" or 12 gauge

[Peanut74]

Well I notched the bed rail and I know clear the tank. However, once I got the bed where it needed to be the fuel tank filler neck lines up the notched bed rail. I know I can't be the first one to run into this situation so any help on how to resolve it would be appreciated.

[Undone]

Everyone talks about prime and paint then assemble. Is anyone spot welding the bedsides to the floor at the tailgate as the factory did?

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by Undone

Everyone talks about prime and paint then assemble. Is anyone spot welding the bedsides to the floor at the tailgate as the factory did?

I did not. I suspect the factory did that to align the bed then keep it from moving while it went down the line.
My unwelded, complete bed rebuild still functions as new.

[Accelo]

I was attempting to install my tail light and back up lights in my new bed today. The tail lamps have two holes where they bolt to the box. Only one would bolt up the second one was about a hold diameter off. J-Clips will not be long enough if I slot the hole in the box. Considering slotting the hole in the back of the tail lamp.
The original back up lamps will not even fit into the hole. The hole in the box is to small and seems to be at an angle. I didn't have time to check it out really well. I was going to get my replacement back-up housing and see how they fit before I get carried away on them. The back up light is just setting in the housing about as far as I could get it in the picture. Learn from my faux pas.

Rick

[ho70]

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[Peanut74]

Accelo, I checked my backup and taillight openings and I didn't have the same issue you are having. The holes in mine were good and I should be ok. The only issue I did have was the backup light bucket opening was tight in the bottom corners. I did open them up a little with the body hammer but I will need to tape them during assembly to make I don't chip them.

I also installed the LH wheel well. The wheel well is from Auto Metal Direct and is 0.052" thick. Fitup was good once I put the wheel well to bedside bolts on first and snugged them up. THEN I installed the wheel well to bed bolts. For the bed bolts I put them in at what ever angle they went in at. I then did the two corner ones first just to pull the wheel well down far enough so that I could get the two flat washers, lock washer and nut on all the other bolts. I then started in the center running the bolts down starting the center and working my way out. The only two holes that did not align up were in the two corners where you go though three layers of steel. Once I opened up those holes a bit everything was fine. The bedside to bed was good with no major tweaking.
NOTE: This is a two person if not a three person.

Next up, figure out my fuel filler routing and placement and the RH bedside.

[Peanut74]

Today I put the LH rear fender skirt on. The part did not have a name on it so I do not know who made the part but it was 0.054" thick. This part is the worst fitting part of the bed kit so far. Once I finally got it in place the rolled flange of the skirt did not butt up against the inner fender. I did manage to hammer the edge over some and close most of the gap. I will need to add some material at the bottom to close up the gap.

[Peanut74]

Well today I got the RH rear fender and wheel well on. Haven't tightened them do yet that will be done once I know it is square. The only thing I had to modify was to enlarge the gap between the bed and rear bed sill. The issue was the fender post could not slide into place because of the small gap. Tomorrow will tell me how square it is.

Also, got my fuel filler cap. Looking at putting it in the LH post hole. Which will require me to revise the tail light wiring routing.

[Peanut74]

Well I got the tailgate on. I don't know who made it as it was unmarked. But I can say it was made in Taiwan as the were the fenders. As for the gauge metal I didn't measure it but it weighed as much as the fenders. So I needed help getting it put on.

As you can see by the pictures the fit up was good overall. I did have to drill out the trunion (sp) holes to get the main body lines to match up. However, when I matched up the body lines the top of the tailgate did not match the top of the fenders. Another small issue is that at the top 4 inches of the tailgate on each side has a minimal gap while the rest shows about 3/16" gap. I will try to work it some to get a consistent gap.

I also took a picture of where I had to open up the gap on the bed floor to get the LH fender on. I will be doing the same thing on the RH fender once I take it off for paint.

[Peanut74]

Well since my filler neck interference issue has been resolved I started working on the fuel filler neck. Attached you see the steps that I took to get my fuel filler in. I did have to remove two brackets to get it all to work. One bracket was in the stake post hole about 6" down. The other one was on the bed rear sill rail.

Tomorrow I am planning on cleaning up the edges cuts and Trim some more off where the hose takes a 90 degree bend. Then weld in all in on the top and grind it down flush.

Here is what I used:
-Bikers Choice paintable popup gas cap P/n:011900
-1.5" ID steel pipe for filler
-1999 Honda Camry fuel filler (Use it to go from 1.5 to 1.25 dia)
- 45 degree 1.25" ID fuel filler hose from Fuel Filler Supply Co. p/n125A45
- 90 degree 1.25" ID fuel filler hose from Fuel Filler Supply Co. p/n125A90
- 1/2" ID hose for fuel vent

[Peanut74]

Well I got all the bed parts epoxy coated and 2k primer. Tomorrow's goal is to get it all sanded and ready for paint on Saturday.

My current plan is paint the visible parts and use bed liner inside the bed. For the back side of the fenders they will be coated with bed undercoating.

[ItWillBeSlow]

Thanks for taking the time to post these updates. Please keep them coming.