Refreshing the Fontend 72 C10

[BigBird05]

Just a thought, how old are your shocks. Your going to have them off anyway. I call this sensous. Sensous are already doing it. You might as well replace ..... LOL

[Rich72C10]

My new KBY's come in today, so I am doing them 1st. Though my fronts appear to be originals, with the frame stud in the upper shock. So I am all worried about getting this off being at 150 ft lbs and then getting the new supplied KBY stud on @150 ft lbs. On the passenger side, I think it is the EEC fuel lines running real close to that frame nut.

[68 P.O.S.]

I just came across this thread again and remembered something I forgot to mention previously. While you're doing the front end refresh, you should really replace the lower a-arm u-bolts. The original ones were 7/16" or 1/2" and are prone to snapping when reversing with the wheel turned to full lock in either direction. The Dorman 13503 are the ones you want to get. They're a thicker 9/16" and will not snap like the stockers can.

[Rich72C10]

Okay, I just about have all my parts from RockAuto.

What is the best way to paint these guys black?

1. degrease / clean the new parts
2. I assume any old rust-oleum
3. rust-oleum Black - Semi or Stain?

I wouldn't think high-temp rust-oleum would be needed for frontend parts ....

PS: darn it forgot the Dorman UBolts!

[Rich72C10]

I found this, should be good enough for these little parts on the front end.

VHT ESP671007 Satin Black Roll Bar and Chassis Paint Can

[68 P.O.S.]

Yes, clean off any surface rust and degrease the parts. After clean, I spray them off with some brake cleaner and then you can start painting. I used the VHT paint too. I sprayed 4 coats on mine.

[Accelo]

Of all the tasks rebuilding the Arm Shafts will be the most difficult to do.
One needs a 1-5/8" socket or something that opens up that large.
I have seen pipe wrenches and 16" crescent wrench work but it's not pretty!
Best off to brake the large nuts loose while they are still on the truck.
Most people don't have a vise and table heavy enough to get them apart.
Don't forget to mark the alignment shim location.
Best of luck on your project.
Rick

[Rich72C10]

Thanks guys!

[GASoline71]

All Moog here too for a complete front end rebuild on my 1972 GMC C15. But I didn't order them online and have to wait. My local auto parts store had everything on the shelf. So I got it all the same day. Plus if something was wonky, I could return it to them and not have to ship it back.

Gary

[Rich72C10]

Well, got the truck back to today, though I could have gotten it yesterday if I was in town (three and 1/2 days work). I was in Dallas watching the Stars kick the Red Wings ass at the American Airlines Center in a VIP box (a friend 4 won VIP box tickets).

I bought almost the parts from RockAuto.com, plus front/rear rubber brake lines and the CPP Front sway bar from Summit. The ran into problems, mainly getting things disassembled and then the rear bleeder was all kinds of clogged but none of the rear brake parts needed replacing, was told I don't need to even think about the brakes for a long time/many miles.

My God, the difference is night and day and that is a understatement! Even pulling out of the shop's parking space I notice the difference (nice stiff / non-boating steering). I then noticed the difference on how she drove on the potted crappy road. Then I got to turn about circles and s-turns where before I would take them slow but now plow through them at 30~40 mph (before at or way under 20 mph).

So while they ended up blow past my high cost number, it was actually worth it.

1.5k to install the below (I came into the shop with all the parts below, in hand).

x1 Pitman Arm MOOG K6131
x1 Idler Arm MOOG K6096T
x2 Outer Tie Rod End MOOG ES415RL
x2 Inner Tie Rod End MOOG ES403L
x2 Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve MOOG ES2004S
x2 Upper Control Arm Shaft Kit MOOG K6147
x2 Lower Control Arm Shaft Kit MEVOTECH MK6098
x2 Upper Ball Joint MOOG K6124
x2 Lower Ball Joint MOOG K6117T
x1 Brake & Wheel Hub : Brake Hose Front Left RAYBESTOS BH380713
x1 Brake & Wheel Hub : Brake Hose Front Right RAYBESTOS BH380712
x1 Brake & Wheel Hub : Brake Hose Rear; Coil Spring CENTRIC 15066303
x2 Sets of Dorman HELP! U Bolts | MTM 13503

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Well, got the truck back to today, though I could have gotten it yesterday if I was in town (three and 1/2 days work). I was in Dallas watching the Stars kick the Red Wings ass at the American Airlines Center in a VIP box (a friend 4 won VIP box tickets).

I bought almost the parts from RockAuto.com, plus front/rear rubber brake lines and the CPP Front sway bar from Summit. The ran into problems, mainly getting things disassembled and then the rear bleeder was all kinds of clogged but none of the rear brake parts needed replacing, was told I don't need to even think about the brakes for a long time/many miles.

My God, the difference is night and day and that is a understatement! Even pulling out of the shop's parking space I notice the difference (nice stiff / non-boating steering). I then noticed the difference on how she drove on the potted crappy road. Then I got to turn about circles and s-turns where before I would take them slow but now plow through them at 30~40 mph (before at or way under 20 mph).

So while they ended up blow past my high cost number, it was actually worth it.

1.5k to install the below (I came into the shop with all the parts below, in hand).

x1 Pitman Arm MOOG K6131
x1 Idler Arm MOOG K6096T
x2 Outer Tie Rod End MOOG ES415RL
x2 Inner Tie Rod End MOOG ES403L
x2 Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve MOOG ES2004S
x2 Upper Control Arm Shaft Kit MOOG K6147
x2 Lower Control Arm Shaft Kit MEVOTECH MK6098
x2 Upper Ball Joint MOOG K6124
x2 Lower Ball Joint MOOG K6117T
x1 Brake & Wheel Hub : Brake Hose Front Left RAYBESTOS BH380713
x1 Brake & Wheel Hub : Brake Hose Front Right RAYBESTOS BH380712
x1 Brake & Wheel Hub : Brake Hose Rear; Coil Spring CENTRIC 15066303
x2 Sets of Dorman HELP! U Bolts | MTM 13503

I have all the same parts as you except I have the Moog 6098 control arm shafts. I also bought a Borgeson Steering Box with rag joint and goig to get one of their P/Steering Pumps too. I already have the 1 1/4 inch front sway bar ( 73-87 GM 1 ton ) installed and recently installed a Hellwig 1 1/18th inch rear sway bar.

[Rich72C10]

I was bummed I couldn't get the matching Moog Lower Control Arm Shaft but no one had it in stock, I waited a bit for it to show up back in stock but in the end I got the MEVOTECH. I thought about replacing the Steering Box too but the rest of that all seemed to be in good order, so I left that alone. Those parts are the only "old" parts left in the steering path, as last year I put in a shorten tilt column in.

I have bounced around in my head about getting a rear sway bar but it doesn't seem as cut and dry as it was with the front one.

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

I was bummed I couldn't get the matching Moog Lower Control Arm Shaft but no one had it in stock, I waited a bit for it to show up back in stock but in the end I got the MEVOTECH. I thought about replacing the Steering Box too but the rest of that all seemed to be in good order, so I left that alone. Those parts are the only "old" parts left in the steering path, as last year I put in a shorten tilt column in.

I have bounced around in my head about getting a rear sway bar but it doesn't seem as cut and dry as it was with the front one.

It took me 6-7 months to acquire all the parts as was buying/ordering as I had the extra cash.. Got em all through Amazon as I'm in Canada and Amazons free shipping is the bomb.

[CG]

Timely thread, good info ... Thanks!

[toolboxchev]

I went with all MOOG from Jegs a couple of years ago, everything except the lower ball joints and lower control arm shaft kits was around 250 shipped.

I had already done the ball joints and shafts with Moog.

Moog has the stuff! All Made in USA!