The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-28-2002, 12:48 AM   #1
Mountain Man
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 451
installing shut off valve to heater core

I have a problem with my heater in the cab still pumping in heat even when the cab control is turned off.

It has been suggested that an easy fix would be to install an inline on /off valve to the heater core.

Which line do I put the shut off valve on, the line that goes to the lower port on the heater core, or the upper line?

I don't use the truck in anything other than summer driving, but don't want to loop the line as we can get some cold spring mornings and cool summer evenings up here.
__________________
72 C10 Cheyenne Super
Full trim
Factory tach dash
A/C dash
Factory tilt
350 / 350 power train - with Edelbrock components.
Mountain Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 05:22 AM   #2
hanssolo
Registered User
 
hanssolo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Ill. USA
Posts: 447
My catalog shows 4 diff. types of cutoff switches. I know it goes on the input side to the core, but which line it is I forget. The upper hose from the engine on a 350 I believe. Mine is in backwards and what happens is it does'nt circulate at idle.
__________________
69 C10 longbed: 357c.i. /TH400/3.73s/AC/ beige primer/saving $ for paint
______________________________
hanssolo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 10:52 AM   #3
ThreeQuarter
Senior Member
 
ThreeQuarter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Texan in Iowa
Posts: 2,521
My '72 had a run-of-the-mill plumbing valve in the line connecting to the intake manifold. The previous owner was a plumber...
Attached Images
 
__________________
Ben
'68 Chevy C10 Custom LWB 327/TH400 2nd owner
'16 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE Dblcab 4wd 5.3
ThreeQuarter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 11:23 AM   #4
2nova2
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Rohnert Park, CA
Posts: 615
OK i am having the same prob. so which hose is it for a non A/C truck. The way my hoses are run is a 3/4 hose from the water pump to the 3/4 fitting on the top of heater box and the 5/8 from the intake manifold to the bottom of heater box. So the question is, is the 3/4 on the top the incoming line and should the valve be on that one?
__________________
72 GMC Burb barn door 4X4 350/350 PS PB Tilt ( gone but not forgooten)
64 Chevy II V8 Loaded Wagon
2004 Chevy 2500 HD

Sonoma County, Northern CA
2nova2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 11:31 AM   #5
Zkast
Account Suspended
 
Zkast's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 929
Your hose coming from the intake is the supply(inlet)side. The hose going to the waterpump or radiator is the exhaust(outlet) side. Install the shutoff valve on the inlet side although I doubt it will make a huge difference which side you put it on.. When you install it on the inlet, it stops convection heating of the 180+ degree water....

Last edited by Zkast; 06-28-2002 at 11:36 AM.
Zkast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 03:24 PM   #6
2nova2
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Rohnert Park, CA
Posts: 615
So what you are saying is the water flows out from the intake?
__________________
72 GMC Burb barn door 4X4 350/350 PS PB Tilt ( gone but not forgooten)
64 Chevy II V8 Loaded Wagon
2004 Chevy 2500 HD

Sonoma County, Northern CA
2nova2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 04:16 PM   #7
Mountain Man
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 451
Mine is the same set up as 2nova2, with the 3/4 hose from the water pump to the upper inlet on the heater core. The lower 5/8 hose is hooked up to the lower part of the heater core. Logic would say that the hose from the water pump to the top of the heater core would be the one to put the shut off valve on, because the pump would be sending heated coolant into the heater core, and then back out the smaller bottom hose and back into the intake port.

I need this clarified, as I want to splice into the right hose.


thanks.
__________________
72 C10 Cheyenne Super
Full trim
Factory tach dash
A/C dash
Factory tilt
350 / 350 power train - with Edelbrock components.
Mountain Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 04:16 PM   #8
hwedding56
Registered User
 
hwedding56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Ky
Posts: 255
Mine was the 5/8 '' hose That I installed it on. (looked nothing like the plumbers valve LOL) It does the same thing though. I would agree with Zcast it will stop the flow of hot water on the top or the bottom hose. look at your water pump when its running. That will tell you if its pushing the water or pulling it.
Herbie
__________________
67-CST Factory PS PB AIR Buckets SWB FLEET 350-700r4
67-SWB Step Plain Jane
350-3 on the tree
68 1-1/2 ton Dump 12' rock Bed soon to have fast68's 292 installed
72 GMC 3/4 ton Crew Cab 402 BBL
400 tranny ( ok I bought it from Crews) Its one ugly long WB long bed 4 door truck!!!!!!!!!
hwedding56 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 04:43 PM   #9
Dandeluxe
Senior Member
 
Dandeluxe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: st.louis mo.
Posts: 717
bypass hose on heater core

mine was doing the same thing and i just took the hose off the top of the heatercore and ran it to the top of radiator no valve needed problem solved or is it top hose from water pump and put it to the radiator and no valve needed bypass the heater core is all your doing.
__________________
1969 cst swb 350/400 th . DANNY C .
["]FRIENDS DONT LET FRIENDS DRIVE F@RD$!!


1969 cst swb corvette hugger orange with 400 hp sbc

I started out with nothing and i held on to it
Dandeluxe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 05:26 PM   #10
2nova2
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Rohnert Park, CA
Posts: 615
Im with you Mountain Man I need clarification. I realize that you want to stop circulation, but i must be missing something, if you don't put the valve on the right hose won't hot water still flow to the heater core? therefore hot air into cab. Is it me?
__________________
72 GMC Burb barn door 4X4 350/350 PS PB Tilt ( gone but not forgooten)
64 Chevy II V8 Loaded Wagon
2004 Chevy 2500 HD

Sonoma County, Northern CA
2nova2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 05:34 PM   #11
busterwivell
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Sahuarita, AZ USA
Posts: 2,033
I've done this with several vehicles before, and I always thought the top hose (at the heater core) was the correct one. To make the job quick and easy, I used small vice grips on both sides of the hose where I made the cut. Lost almost no coolant and made no mess that way. I worked for me. Of course, when it's 110 degrees in Tucson, it's hard to tell if the heater is off or on.
__________________
Bill - Tucson, AZ
47 Chevrolet 2 dr sedan
56 Chevrolet 210 2 dr sedan
66 Chevrolet Malibu 2 dr 4 speed
71 Chevrolet C30 Longhorn
86 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS (Sold)
01 Chevrolet Tahoe
IM - BUSTERWIVE@aol.com
busterwivell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 05:40 PM   #12
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
I would also think that it would be the hose off the water pump... best way to find out would be to disconnect it, let it drain into an aproved container(shop floor) and once it is done spilling, have an assistant (wife) fire it up. If it gushes from the hose, that is your supply, if from the core...return.
It really wouldn't matter too much if you got the wrong one blocked. If the water can not get out, then the hot water won't get in...kinda like a clogged radiater...it'll cool a little bit of water, but you'll still overheat since the cool water isn' going anywhere.
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 10:29 PM   #13
racedvl
Account Suspended
 
racedvl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Woodstock, IL
Posts: 7,020
The return goes into the water pump.
racedvl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 11:17 PM   #14
billogna
Registered User
 
billogna's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Choctaw, OK
Posts: 235
My original valve is in the 5/8" hose which goes to the intake. I can never remember which way the flow goes, either, I just ran mine like it shows in the assembly manual.
Attached Images
 
__________________
'69 Chev Cust/10 swb, 350/700R4, 5"/6"
'70 Chev C10 swb, 67 front, 454/700r4, 4"/5"
'73 Chev stepper, 350/3 spd
'84 Chev K20 350/4 spd
'91 GMC 1500 Suburban 4x4, 350/700R4
billogna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2002, 11:29 PM   #15
Zkast
Account Suspended
 
Zkast's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 929
Water flows from the intake to the core then to the pump. the hose going to the pump is on the inlet side of the pump meaning it will pull coolant from this hose and pump into each side of the block. Thats why the put the nipple at the front of the intake... thats the final place for coolant to flow before its sent back to the radiator, its also the hottest coolant in the entire system.
Zkast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2002, 12:11 AM   #16
CoryM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Surrey, B.C. , Canada
Posts: 874
The water pump nipple is suction, the intake is definatly,100% sure, the one you want to block. On my camaro i have it from the water pump and from the rad. both suction sides so its no good. It honestly doesnt matter what one you block off, so long as it stops flowing through the core but block the intake one off for best results.
CoryM
__________________
1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada
http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070


"Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high."
Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army
CoryM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2002, 12:33 AM   #17
Richard
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,707
The intake manifold is the outlet and the hottest water which is why the heater is connected there and why the thermostat is placed there. That hose connects to the bottom inlet on the heater core. The upper outlet on the heater core goes to the pump. I can email a pic from the service manual if anyone would like to see. It really does not matter which hose the valve is put in because the water will not flow when shut off, but if you want shut it off at the supply put the valve in the hose from the manifold. Might try adjusting the air flap before you go to all the trouble though. The rubber seal may be shot also. Hope this helps.

Darn I type slow!
__________________
Richard
1972 K10 Custom Deluxe SWB Fleetside
My build https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=800746
Richard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2002, 02:08 AM   #18
blue72stepside
Registered User
 
blue72stepside's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Morgan Hill, California
Posts: 309
This is why u should not block off the hoses:
If you examine the location and orientation of the heat exchanger in the radiator, you will see that it is located where the radiator's bypass water flow runs. Normally, the heater core is fed from an engine tap before the coolant thermostat, so that it sees warm water as soon as any significant heat has been produced by the engine warming up. The return water from the heater core is dumped back into the radiator in a place where it will flow across the heat exchanger before it re-enters the water pump and makes another circuit. This means that the heater core water, which warms up more quickly than the main radiator water, also serves to warm up the transmission fluid in the heat exchanger. This is important because warm transmission fluid is only a so-so lubricant, and cold transmission fluid is even worse. You want to get the fuid warmed up as soon as possible in order to lengthen the life and improve the durability of the transmission. The waste water from the heater core flowing over the heat exchanger does this. Fix the other problem.
__________________
72 Cheyenne Stepside
357/TH350 3.07 Posi
379HP@5500 412FT#@4000
96 1500 Work Truck
88 Chevy Van 3/4
97 Tahoe 8.5 Lift (Sons)
00 1500 LT 4x4 (Sons)
98 Ford Cobra (Wifes Car)

blue72stepside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2002, 07:28 AM   #19
Longhorn Man
its all about the +6 inches
 
Longhorn Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
In theory, that kinda sounds ok. but too bad they put block offs on the hoses from the factory in some trucks huh?
Longhorn Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2002, 08:55 AM   #20
PitterPats72
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 145
Blue72stepside:
When you say fix the "other problem". What is the other problem. I have the same problem as all these guys and tell me what is the problem.

Is the problem that the flapper is not working correctly?

Tell me, in Indy when its's 85 you can tell there's heat coming in the cab.

Whoever had the picture from the manual can you email it to me? pitterpats72@bww.com .

thanks,
Pat
__________________
72 Chevy Custom 10 Deluxe (78K mi.)
95 Nissan Maxima (195K mi.)
73 VW Beetle (owned since 78; 96K miles) Engine rebuild by me done!
73 VW Super Beetle -New to me- Bought from original owner!
84 Honda Nighthawk (2500 mi.)
I know too much foreign stuff; I've owned American too and they lasted
just as long.
PitterPats72 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2002, 10:52 AM   #21
72LNGHRN
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Tucson AZ USA
Posts: 241
mine has the shut off from the factory which is working but still get heat in the cab thru the vents havent figured it out yet but I think one of the dampers is not fully closing this is on an a/c truck.
__________________
72LONGHORN 350 CI TURBO 400 A/C P/S P/B HEAVY DUTY SPRINGS ALL THE BELLS AND WHISTLES.
TUCSON,AZ.
2005 4X4 DODGE RAM 1500 "HEMI"LARAMIE 1961 OLDS DYNAMIC 88 394 4BBL UNDER CONST.
72LNGHRN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2002, 01:07 PM   #22
blue72stepside
Registered User
 
blue72stepside's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Morgan Hill, California
Posts: 309
yes it could be the flapper is not closing all the way or something stuck in it sticks, leaves, dead things. try moving it all the way to hot see if it gets hotter. We have one truck in are fleet that someone hooked up backwords some how, if u turn this thing to hot it gets cold. If you want to such the water flow to the heater core and still take care of the heat exchanger get a two way valve. in one position it will be normal in the other it will return to the radiator. the two way valve only applys to trucks with auto trans. I would also check to make sure the door is moveing
ie: the cable is hook up, door is moving. i an not such about a/c truck, don't they have a valve that shuts the water off when the a/c is on.
__________________
72 Cheyenne Stepside
357/TH350 3.07 Posi
379HP@5500 412FT#@4000
96 1500 Work Truck
88 Chevy Van 3/4
97 Tahoe 8.5 Lift (Sons)
00 1500 LT 4x4 (Sons)
98 Ford Cobra (Wifes Car)

blue72stepside is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2002, 05:35 PM   #23
tom hand
CCRider
 
tom hand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA
Posts: 2,232
It really doesn't matter. If you put a valve in either hose it will block flow of coolant to the heater core, no more heat.
__________________
72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail
Olive Branch MS
tom hand is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:49 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com