Towing questions

[Overdriven]

I don’t know much about towing but at work I have been tasked with coming up with a layout for a trailer. Currently looking at a bumper pull flatbed equipment trailer, double axle, 5,200lb each axle, 12-14 foot bed, gvwr of trailer is just shy of 10,000. Actual trailer weight is 2,600lb and will be putting 6,000lbs in it. My best calculations put tongue weight around 1,000lbs unless we go to 16 foot trailer which should drop tongue weight to around 750lbs.

My two main questions are more about the vehicle needed to tow. Currently
have a 2009 F150 FX4 available which google says has a tow rating of 8,400-11,000lbs. It has a hitch but haven’t checked class yet, 2” receiver is all I know. My concerns are tongue weight and the fact the loaded trailer will weigh more than the truck. Gooseneck isn’t an option. Aim your criticism and advice here please.

[67C10Step]

Tow vehicle have a brake controller and the trailer have brakes? If not, that would be at the top of my list.

[Overdriven]

Trailer brakes yes. Brake controller, maybe? Truck has the big round 7? Pin connector for trailer brakes, need to check on controller. I don’t see the truck much as it’s always out on the road a lot and this is more proof of concept at this point.

[61_FL_Apache]

You may want to look into a weight distributing hitch. They will take weight off of the rear axle of the truck and put more on the front axle. I used one of these for years on a Chevy Astro towing a travel trailer.

With that, a minimum hitch should be a Class 3. Class 4 or 5 would be better. I'm not sure what comes on trucks these days. There should be a label on the hitch with that info.

If the trailer has hydraulic brakes, you are covered there. If they are electric, you will need a brake controller mentioned above. Those work well.

I posted around the same time you did. For the electric brakes, you will see a Blue wire if equipped. That's for the trailer brakes. Some trucks may come prewired for brakes.

[The Rocknrod]

I'd make sure I had a class 4 trailer hitch, the ball will have to match your trailer.
As was said a trailer brake is the only way to go. Both on the trailer and in the truck. The reason I say that is I have seen people "say" they have a trailer brake with no brakes on the trailer (I have this friend from Louisiana...Just sayin ).

[LS short box]

Along with trailer brakes make sure all of the truck and trailer brakes are in good shape. If your 2009 has a ton of miles or the trailer is used and has seen a ton use they might need new pads/shoes along with rotors/drums.

[Dead Parrot]

Check what equipment that truck has installed. Then check Ford forums to see if there is a simple way to activate a brake controller.

On my 2009 Escape, when I got a hitch installed by U-haul, they installed a trailer light controller since you can't simply connect extra lights to the wiring. It lasted a year or so. After two replacements also failed, I was investigating how to make a do it yourself version when I tripped over an interesting forum post. Seems my Escape already had the circuitry needed for trailer lights. I just needed to buy and install 2 relays in the relay box over the front driver's side wheel and connect a flat 4 trailer plug to an already installed connector for just that purpose. Cost of 2 relays and the connector was about $20, about a 1/4 the price of the aftermarket controller boxes. And they are still working several years later.

Bottom line is setting that truck up for towing a trailer with electric brakes may be fairly simple. Do some research before buying parts.

IIRC - A lot of two inch receiver hitches are 5000lb tow/500lb tongue weight even though Class 3 are normally 8000lb/800lb tongue. May have to include a new hitch in your proposal.

[burnin oil]

I would look for heavier axles. Any place I ever worked would have that trailer overloaded by the second trip out. You just know somebody will say that you forgot a piece of gear, some new toy, or hey since you are out can you drop this off somewhere. Just saying.

No real experience with the f150 but I would be looking at a 3/4 ton if this trailer is moved more than a couple times a year. Bigger brakes and heavier drivetrain is a bonus when you have company drivers. Like I said, no experience with the fords but their numbers seem awfully inflated. I would think pulling that load on a regular basis would pound it into the ground quickly. I feel those numbers are more in line with a weekend warrior who occasionally hauls a small RV or boat a few weekends a year. A better question is what motor and gears are in that f150 if you are inclined to try it.

[whitedog76]

I actually own an 09 F150 and tow with it. I have a 16 foot flatbed and 24 foot Camper. My first concern is with your trailer choice. It's a little large to begin, without putting the 6000lbs on it. The 09-14 F150's have a pretty soft leaf spring setup, without some weight distribution, you'll be pretty saggy in the rear. I know Ford had a max tow/load option, it was usually on the Crew Cabs with the 6.5 bed. Your Fx4 more than likely has 3.73 gears and a limited slip, I have no idea about the load rating. For engines, there was the 4.6 3valve and 5.4 3valve. Mine has the 4.6 3V, I've never felt underpowered. The 6 speed auto makes a huge difference, I just wish I could lockout 6th gear. My wife has a 2014 Expedition, it has the 5.4 and the 6 speed auto too. Ford gave them a 10,000 tow rating, I will call BS on that one, I don't feel it's much better than my little 4.6.

Anyhow, you may be just as well with a 7500lb rated trailer and not the 12,000lb one.

[Overdriven]

Thanks for the input everyone. To address some things mentioned, truck is well maintained, just had rear brakes and shocks done, 5.4 not 4.6, extended cab, 6.5 bed, with just over 100k I think. Truck will be at our shop tomorrow and I’ll be able to check on the hitch, brake controller and see if it has max tow option. We might get a different truck in the coming months for towing this trailer but the f150 is what we have on hand now. Won’t be hauling all the time but will be hauling long distance 1/2 dozen times a year to events. Trailer will be new custom built without the normal drop down rear, totally flat front to rear. Weight in the trailer won’t change. Three darn heavy air compressors will be bolted down and stay there for display at trade show booths. With around 1400lbs of extra capacity according to the gvrw of the trailer I think I’m ok there.

As I said tongue weight was a particular concern of mine. I put tongue weight at 800-1000lbs. Unfortunately I can’t do much to shift the weight and reduce tongue weight without going longer on the trailer which then won’t fit in smaller booths at shows and may adversely effect handling.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Overdriven

Thanks for the input everyone. To address some things mentioned, truck is well maintained, just had rear brakes and shocks done, 5.4 not 4.6, extended cab, 6.5 bed, with just over 100k I think. Truck will be at our shop tomorrow and I’ll be able to check on the hitch, brake controller and see if it has max tow option. We might get a different truck in the coming months for towing this trailer but the f150 is what we have on hand now. Won’t be hauling all the time but will be hauling long distance 1/2 dozen times a year to events. Trailer will be new custom built without the normal drop down rear, totally flat front to rear. Weight in the trailer won’t change. Three darn heavy air compressors will be bolted down and stay there for display at trade show booths. With around 1400lbs of extra capacity according to the gvrw of the trailer I think I’m ok there.

As I said tongue weight was a particular concern of mine. I put tongue weight at 800-1000lbs. Unfortunately I can’t do much to shift the weight and reduce tongue weight without going longer on the trailer which then won’t fit in smaller booths at shows and may adversely effect handling.

If you're custom-building the trailer and you know the weight distribution, you can probably move the axles forward to balance the load better.

[68bowtie]

You can make it work with a half ton, best with air bags and/or a distribution hitch. But I would recommend using a 3/4 ton. The squat will be your issue.

[whitedog76]

With the 5.4 and 3.73 gears you'll tow pretty good. Like I stated before and others have stated, rear squat is the big issue.

[burnin oil]

Hitch wieght can be effected by axle placement or the physical loading of the deck. It's possible to fudge everything a little to get a better distribution. The catch is getting the tongue wieght to light or heavy can be nerve racking to down right unsafe. With a 1000 pound hitch wieght you should be safe though. Also pay attention with setup that you don't accidentally overload one axle. It can be done. My dual tandem tends to load the rear axle more due to hitching hieght.

When I towed my 57 GMC 1 ton home I had it all the way forward on the equipment trailer to fit. Distribution was off and she swayed starting at 45 MPH. Long slow drive in a 5500 that has over 4 tons of bed capacity at its disposal. Even with a light dump setup on the GMC it threw the distribution out of wack. Luckily it was late and on smaller roads so I could go butt slow. I also have alot of trailering experience but with the right equipment sometimes loads just don't cooperate. That extra truck will save your bacon. The 5500 is as long as the equipment trailer and weighed literally as much as the loaded trailer. Good luck.

[rgunlock]

Not sure about your Ford, but I wouldn't assume that because it has the 7-pin connector that it is all set for electric trailer brakes. My truck has the trailering package and is wired for the trailer brakes but doesn't actually come with the brake controller. It has a connector for one under the dash and all the wiring to the back of the truck, but I had to purchase a brake controller separately.

[Palf70Step]

FX4 or 4x4 are rated for less towing than the 2WD F150s. Hopefully the door jam still has the GVW/towing sticker. I would assume you are on the lighter or around 8K max. AS mentioned on of the big things is tongue weight. I believe most bumper hitches are only rated/recommended for 100 to 150 lb tongue weight. That normally equates to 1500 to 2000 lb towing load. Do we do more than that with a bumper hitch, yes, but definitely not recommended, especially from a business perspective. Check your state laws, as I know some mandate trailer brakes above certain weight loads. Definitely use a load leveling hitch. They truly help. Your truck has the power to pull, I just debate it's ability to slow the loads you are talking about.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by whitedog76

I actually own an 09 F150 and tow with it. I have a 16 foot flatbed and 24 foot Camper. My first concern is with your trailer choice. It's a little large to begin, without putting the 6000lbs on it. The 09-14 F150's have a pretty soft leaf spring setup, without some weight distribution, you'll be pretty saggy in the rear. I know Ford had a max tow/load option, it was usually on the Crew Cabs with the 6.5 bed. Your Fx4 more than likely has 3.73 gears and a limited slip, I have no idea about the load rating. For engines, there was the 4.6 3valve and 5.4 3valve. Mine has the 4.6 3V, I've never felt underpowered. The 6 speed auto makes a huge difference, I just wish I could lockout 6th gear. My wife has a 2014 Expedition, it has the 5.4 and the 6 speed auto too. Ford gave them a 10,000 tow rating, I will call BS on that one, I don't feel it's much better than my little 4.6.

Anyhow, you may be just as well with a 7500lb rated trailer and not the 12,000lb one.

I surprised to read 11K lbs for a 150. Agree with above about truck specifics, that "5100 to 11300" lbs is a wide range. IMO safe & kind to your truck is no more than say 90% its towing capacity, if that.

Trailer brakes & weight distribution was mentioned, especially brakes, receiver hitch. Sway bar if you want to go that route. Those struck by pain say be very careful with weight distribution bars. Speaking for chains which I've used, don't even think about removing the bars until it's jacked up enough there's slack on the chains, and keep track of your body parts.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

FX4 or 4x4 are rated for less towing than the 2WD F150s. Hopefully the door jam still has the GVW/towing sticker. I would assume you are on the lighter or around 8K max. AS mentioned on of the big things is tongue weight. I believe most bumper hitches are only rated/recommended for 100 to 150 lb tongue weight. That normally equates to 1500 to 2000 lb towing load. Do we do more than that with a bumper hitch, yes, but definitely not recommended, especially from a business perspective. Check your state laws, as I know some mandate trailer brakes above certain weight loads. Definitely use a load leveling hitch. They truly help. Your truck has the power to pull, I just debate it's ability to slow the loads you are talking about.

I don’t think he will be pulling with a ball on the bumper. Bumper pull is a designation for a tow hitch receiver under the bumper attached to the frame. Class IVis rated for 10k weight carrying 1000 lbs with a weight distribution mount it goes to 14k and 1400 lbs 10% class V is 12k weight carrying and 17 k distribution hitch . 10% tonque weight .

I believe all trailers with tandem axles are required to have brakes . As is any trailer over 3500 gvw

[Overdriven]

Originally Posted by truckster

If you're custom-building the trailer and you know the weight distribution, you can probably move the axles forward to balance the load better.

Unfortunately I’m not the one in contact with the trailer builder, my boss is. I’ve drawn it all up, to scale and mentioned sending it to the trailer builder and seeing if moving the axles forward is possible or good idea. If we can move the axles forward 4-6 inches it would give me some more wiggle room in tuning tongue tongue weight. Been doing some reading on RV/trailering forums though and I don’t think I want to reduce tongue weight. Seems a tongue weight that’s around 12% of total trailer weight is ideal and I’m right around there with the axles where they are. Plus I’m pretty confident I have the axles loaded evenly, by my calculations around half the tongue weight comes from the trailer itself.

At least nobody has poked any huge holes in the feasibility of this project. Input on the truck seems mixed but I kind of expected that, still some great pointers. Btw it does have a brake controller that is hooked up and the hitch is class 4. Forgot to check the door sticker to see if it has the max tow package though. My boss found a 3/4 ton to borrow for the upcoming event if ours sags too much. After that event we will look into a weight distributed hitch or getting a 3/4 ton of our own. Thanks for the input everyone.