A '54 named Busty

[Gregski]

so got the doors hung back on the truck and the passenger side you can swing closed with your pinky it works that good, the driver side needs a new striker plate and door latch cause it's worn, I wonder if I can just build up some material on the striker plate with some weld and then grind it to shape?

[8man]

Sure, why not?

[Gregski]

came across this Brothers video on how to fandangle a door striker

50'S & 60'S Chevy & GMC Truck Door Latch/Striker Adjustment/Alignment

[Gregski]

spacers for the win!

[Gregski]

so this brings us to the last two things left to do for this ol' lass

1. Weather Stripping
2. Window Regulators and Tracks thingies (basically make them go up and down smoother)

[layinrocker65]

Are you going to bring this to c-10 intervention this weekend?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by layinrocker65

Are you going to bring this to c-10 intervention this weekend?

I so wanted to, but we will be in San Jose University for our sons 20th birthday

[Gregski]

so with the doors opening and closing I thunk it was a good time as any to make the winderz go up and down as well, I strongly suspected the scissor thingies to be bad and needing replacing but....

[Gregski]

here you can see my clutch bolt head removal bit tool doubling as a door crank, yup the groovey grooves be mangled - this winder did take sum effort (pronounced two hands) to go up and down, the wife definitely couldn't text and work it at the same time!

[Gregski]

so after watching Dr. J's video on how to disassemble a Chebby door....

[Gregski]

dope... not that Dr. J

1952 Chevy pickup doors disassembly Ep 1

[Gregski]

so after watching that video we set out to remove the long black twizler thingie which is held on in my case by three screws not two like in the video, the third screw took sum colorful language to find

as you can see in the photographs I ended up cutting the black rubber molding into two, my thought process was remove the top portion with the window rolled down, and then remove the lower portion with the window rolled up (genius I'll tell you) and it worked once I discovered the secret third screw which Dr. J. does not deal with in his video, perhaps it does not exist on the '52 models but GM decided to screw with me on the '54 [see what I did there, pun?!]

[Gregski]

now let's examinate closer that metal bracket thingmajig

I know it is rusty, but does it look to you like there was some welding repair done did on it as well? perhaps by Ray Charles with his feet [I am going straight to hell for that joke]

[Gregski]

so Good News / Bad News

Good News: without that rusty crusty rubber molding strip the window goes up and down super easily

Bad News: the crank handle grooves are buggered up (shame a 1/4" piece of a two foot part can render it obsolete)

[Gregski]

I was dying to see what the retainer on the driver's side looks like so I removed it next, right away I noticed the two OEM clutch head screws on the bottom of this one instead of the two philips head small bolts like on the passenger side, clear indication someone made a 'repair" on the passenger side

[Gregski]

and now the mandatory stare and compare

[8man]

The Great Karnak sees new channels in your future...

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by 8man

The Great Karnak sees new channels in your future...

ha ha, yup, and that was my all time favorite skit, we were so lucky to have grown up in the golden age of comics like Ed McMahon

[Gregski]

so just placed an order with The Filling Station

K-124 1949-55 TRUCK DOOR SEAL KIT-THICKER 11/16" $75.00
CV-65 1951-55 TRUCK VENT WINDOW RUBBER $39.50
K-9 1951-55 TRUCK WINDOW CHANNEL KIT $99.95
C-641 1928-60 SIDE WINDOW SASH CHANNEL $19.50 *** this later proved to be the wrong part ***

I really didn't want to take out the triangles but looks like we got to in order to remove the door glass in order to replace that vertical channel and molding, and I sure as hewk didn't want to rebuild the triangle rubber but looks like I will do it

[Tempest67]

you do not need to remove the vent windows to add new rubbers/seals.

Now that you have the rear channel out you can disconnect the glass from the regulator, and leave the glass resting in the bottom of the door, until you are ready to reassemble.

Also, the vent window rubber can be installed without removal, but you will have to make a cut at the bottom of the rubber, at the pivot pin. Cut the rubber from the INSIDE of the cab to the pin hole (NOT THROUGH- stop at the pivot hole), and you can squeeze the rubber in. You will be left with a seam on the inside, but this will avoid having to remove the vent window.(see pic)

Hope that makes sense, and good luck, as I find my hands and forearms get all cut up when I am working inside doors.

[Gregski]

thank you I appreciate the help

Originally Posted by Tempest67

you do not need to remove the vent windows to add new rubbers/seals.

Now that you have the rear channel out you can disconnect the glass from the regulator

???

how? I thought the glass comes off the regulator forward towards the vent window, talk to me Goose

[Tempest67]

the window rides between the rear track (that you have already removed), and the back edge of the vent window assembly. You should be able to move the glass back, and get it out of the front edge track, then, by wiggling the glass, remove it from the regulator and let it sit in the bottom of the door.

make sense?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

the window rides between the rear track (that you have already removed), and the back edge of the vent window assembly. You should be able to move the glass back, and get it out of the front edge track, then, by wiggling the glass, remove it from the regulator and let it sit in the bottom of the door.

make sense?

got it

[Tempest67]

ha ha,

there are 2 rollers on the regulator that slide in the track on the bottom of the window. Once you have the window out of the front and rear tracks, you should be able to 'wiggle' the window from the regulator.

I find that my windows are very tight in the tracks with the new felts, but I figure they will loosen up after time, and they don't rattle.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

ha ha,

there are 2 rollers on the regulator that slide in the track on the bottom of the window. Once you have the window out of the front and rear tracks, you should be able to 'wiggle' the window from the regulator.

I find that my windows are very tight in the tracks with the new felts, but I figure they will loosen up after time, and they don't rattle.

I am 97.36% sure my regulator only has one roller, and I tried getting it off of it and no dice, I am sure I am doing something wrong so I may try it again after a few beers