Board Wood Question

[gag1025]

How much clearance did you guys leave on the sides and ends. I am using White Oak and protecting it with clear preservative, sealer, or finish. Whatever you prefer to call it. I was told that Sikkens makes good products but looked at their information and did not see a clear satin coat. Any recommendations.

[fluffster]

I left 1/8 inch and I also used Behr deck sealer from Home Depot to do my boards.

[Denny55]

Here is a link to bed wood dimensions for a lot of the trucks. I haven't got to that point yet, but I plan on using automotive clear. Good luck!

http://www.classicheartbeat.com/bed_wood.htm

[torchlight]

I just finished my boards using a product I would highly recommend - Old Masters Satin Water-Based Spar Urethane. (They also make semi-gloss and gloss) The satin level of sheen looks super nice, and the spar urethane is really going to be great protection for the boards. And the water-based was super easy to work with and fast-drying between coats.

[_Ogre]

be aware that the original bed wood was painted with diluted black paint
all clearcoat: waterbased, automotive, polyurethane or spar will eventually bubble up at the edges and along the bed strips

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

be aware that the original bed wood was painted with diluted black paint
all clearcoat: waterbased, automotive, polyurethane or spar will eventually bubble up at the edges and along the bed strips

Unless he uses a penetrating oil type finish.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Unless he uses a penetrating oil type finish.

i did say clear coat, clear penetrating oil type finish will not bubble, it will also not protect from much

[mr48chev]

I just have to wonder why anyone would want to use automotive paint products on wood rather than the proper products for wood.

There are plenty of good products for wood be it a finish that is more of an oil finish or a satin or gloss varnish finish that hold up under the conditions we put our trucks under.

Marine supply stores (boat) that cater to cruising boats should have suitable finishes that will hold up better than most hardware store stuff or car stuff.

[Denny55]

Just a point of clarity, copied from the link that I posted:

Earlier model trucks (pre 1967) had a mix of linseed oil and lampblack to treat the wood and give it that dull black color.

The original bed wood was Southern Pine.

[yossarian19]

Next time I do the bed (hopefully, be a few years) I'm using 3/4" marine plywood with two coats of paint & screwing Trex boards down over top of it.

Both wood and painting suck, IMO.

[_Ogre]

trex over wood would trap moisture, the moisture will make the paint peal off and rust out your bed sills faster
plus your adding weight and imo more work
if using trex, just use trex

[OrrieG]

Also additional height would affect inner fender mounting if its a fleet.

[yossarian19]

Those are both good points.

[Old Crow]

I used 3/4" treated plywood on my F-100 shop truck. Cut the sheet to length, then ripped planks the correct size from the single piece. Marked and drilled the side pieces for the bedside bolts and the other pieces for the bed mounting bolts. At this point I gave everything a coat of Thompson's water seal.
Total cost, not counting the rails and bolt kits, but including the water seal was less than $60.
Of course, the first time I put a motor in the bed of the truck, it spilled about a quart of old, nasty oil. Confirmed my decision not to spend the time and money for oak.

[dyno]

I used Raptor bed liner on my cab floor, behind seat, under fenders and inside the bed. I'm so impressed with the product I'm thinking of using it on the bed wood. Something like these pics: