Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Do those CPP tubular control arms move the spindle rearward even just a little? That would cause the interference. Is the pitman arm you got from POL an exact OEM replacement? Those aftermarket aluminum differential covers require a panhard bar with a jog in it. Someone makes one, I just don't remember who.

I believe CPP made one w/the bend to clear the finned alum covers.

As far as upgrading to POL's R&P set-up? After the issues noted thus far... I would have some concerns about any of their products until it's determined WTH is going on w/the current replacement parts.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I believe CPP made one w/the bend to clear the finned alum covers.

As far as upgrading to POL's R&P set-up? After the issues noted thus far... I would have some concerns about any of their products until it's determined WTH is going on w/the current replacement parts.

Well, I think CaptainFab hit a good one on the head. The CPP Tubular Arms i think adjust the spindle slightly and this may also have an effect after things are bolted up. But honestly, i think it is actually the pitman arm. I cannot get it all the way onto the shaft. I used a dam rattle gun, my extension and still it just stopped about an inch away from where i think it should be. With that said, i could get it there, use heat, use a larger breaker bar or a "helper" on the end of my breaker bar. Either way, i just frustrated with it honestly and maybe it was just enough for me to go ahead and pull the trigger on the rack.
Just as a note, the entire rebuild kit is from EBAY, the upper and lower arms and Spindle are from CPP, so it could be several factors here honestly I hate piece together parts from different company's on things like this. Its just like the diff cover. It will not fit without a bend in it, but the jack wagons that sell the cover do not tell you that!
Anyways, its just been a weekend. I am done with this Covid crap also...
Anyways, Seriously, Thank You to you and CaptainFab!! You two have been awesome help recently. There are alot of others that have helped also, but recently you two have been great, so Thanks again. God Bless

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

Well, I think CaptainFab hit a good one on the head. The CPP Tubular Arms i think adjust the spindle slightly and this may also have an effect after things are bolted up. But honestly, i think it is actually the pitman arm. I cannot get it all the way onto the shaft. I used a dam rattle gun, my extension and still it just stopped about an inch away from where i think it should be. With that said, i could get it there, use heat, use a larger breaker bar or a "helper" on the end of my breaker bar. Either way, i just frustrated with it honestly and maybe it was just enough for me to go ahead and pull the trigger on the rack.
Just as a note, the entire rebuild kit is from EBAY, the upper and lower arms and Spindle are from CPP, so it could be several factors here honestly I hate piece together parts from different company's on things like this. Its just like the diff cover. It will not fit without a bend in it, but the jack wagons that sell the cover do not tell you that!
Anyways, its just been a weekend. I am done with this Covid crap also...
Anyways, Seriously, Thank You to you and CaptainFab!! You two have been awesome help recently. There are alot of others that have helped also, but recently you two have been great, so Thanks again. God Bless

From what I've seen/read in articles, if anything the CPP lower arms should be shifted forward to provide the better Caster numbers.