Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

[chev-obsession]

Nice build!!!

Bracing is a must if your doing any sheet metal repair.

If you posting pictures from say an I phone, I find it beneficial to crop the picture a little and they turn out right side up.

What are the odds your from tri cities?

[SkinnyG]

Checking in on your progress.

Man, I hate doing bodywork.

[Paul Y]

.....

[Paul Y]

A lot of progress since I last checked in.

Aaaannndddd...my brace turned up yesterday, now only the 500 mile round trip to pick it up....

Thanks again for giving me the confidence to go ahead with the purchase, hopefully this will be the motivation I need to start pushing things along before it starts to get cold.

My answer to the cold is a few extra layers and a space heater! Mind you I have just invested in a wood burner for the garage as, like you, don't like the damp heat that the diesel gives.

Onwards!!!

P.

[pdxhall]

How are you liking the smaller mig wire? I've been using .023 for almost all of my panel work.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by pdxhall

How are you liking the smaller mig wire? I've been using .023 for almost all of my panel work.

I really like the smaller wire. I have alot less burn through. Only time it sucks is when i am filling any kind of "gap"

[SkinnyG]

Are you using a copper backer to fill "gap"?

I use 0.023" for everything; I get finer wire feed control.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Are you using a copper backer to fill "gap"?

I use 0.023" for everything; I get finer wire feed control.

Well up to the other day... no... now yes where i can. Crazy how that works.

[pdxhall]

I try to avoid large gaps but when I can I use a copper backer. careful trimming and make sure you have good metal. This steel is thin enough already so any pitting will greatly reduce blowing through

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by pdxhall

I try to avoid large gaps but when I can I use a copper backer. careful trimming and make sure you have good metal. This steel is thin enough already so any pitting will greatly reduce blowing through

Oh so true. Sometimes i must learn the hard way... lol and i so have.... I will be very honest here and if anyone reads this and is thinking about doing this kind of work/restoration, DO NOT HURRY!!! Honestly, the hardest thing i have had to understand and learn is to not hurry or say, "it will be ok that way", or "its good enough". Take your time, do it right, in the end you will be so happy you do!! Instant gratification only means headaches later!!
I have learned so much from so many on here, to many to honestly name, but one thing i have learned from just about all of them, take your time.

[88Stanger]

New Mini-Split and filter system in and ready...

[88Stanger]

By the way, it works great! the switch from hot to cold takes a few min is all when you first install the unit, otherwise, works like a champ. Very very quite too!!

[pdxhall]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

By the way, it works great! the switch from hot to cold takes a few min is all when you first install the unit, otherwise, works like a champ. Very very quite too!!

That sounds like exactly what I need. My shop is 30'x30' with the same ceiling height. That's a great price, also. I have looked at the mini splits and I was unsure of the size. Now I know, thanks.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by pdxhall

That sounds like exactly what I need. My shop is 30'x30' with the same ceiling height. That's a great price, also. I have looked at the mini splits and I was unsure of the size. Now I know, thanks.

This is the one i went with on Amazon:


Senville SENL-30CD Mini Split Air Conditioner Heat Pump, 30000 BTU 18 SEER 208/230V

1399.00 before tax - Amazon Prime is free shipping

Vacuum pump kit:
Kozyvacu AUTO AC Repair Complete Tool Kit with 1-Stage 3.5 CFM Vacuum Pump, Manifold Gauge Set, Hoses and its Acccessories

Mini-Split line connector:
IANZHENKEJI R410A Adapter | 5/16" Female Quick Couplers x 1/4" Male Flare for Outdoor Units Mini Split & HVAC & Central Air Conditioner System(Pack of 2) (145°)

Then you just need to have electrical ran.
The filter box cost me $85.00 but is optional.

[pdxhall]

Thanks for the info.

[88Stanger]

Small update: So the Mini-Split is working great! I am amazed at how well it does work. I plan to monitor the temp in the shop and how much it affects the power bill to get a good understanding how much it cost to keep the shop at a 62 degrees at a min.

As for the truck, I am finally back to work on it. Just about got the bottom of the cab by in the door area done. I would have it done but we ran out of gas, damnit. So this week we will have this door area done and this weekend i plan to have the other area below the passenger door done and start on the header area inside and out.

[88Stanger]

Update:

So Driver side lower door area and cab floor are repaired. Now onto less involved passenger side.

First pic is completed driver side

Rest are the passenger side after i removed the stock lower cab door panel

[88Stanger]

You can see the dent in the stock under area shown in the last two pics. Metal all seems to be decent, no real rusted through areas, just surface rust that i will coat with Por 15. The dent is my trouble area. May need to get new panel for that. I was thinking of trying to fix it by hammer and dolly, but maybe just a replacement panel would be easier.
Suggestions?

[88Stanger]

Well i ordered the complete lower side of the passenger door area for the cab from LMC, it is on the way....

As for the passenger side, i did a little work. grey pic is as it started out... Thanks to CaptainFab for the door pillars.... (shown in blue)

Waiting on the panel from LMC... and then the gas filler neck fill in panel from POL

[SCOTI]

Looks good.

[SkinnyG]

You and me both man - I've never done rust repair of this magnitude before; I'm totally learning as I go.

I have a saying that keeps me inspired to try things for myself:

"I can pay a professional to screw it up, or I can screw it up myself for free."

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

You and me both man - I've never done rust repair of this magnitude before; I'm totally learning as I go.

I have a saying that keeps me inspired to try things for myself:

"I can pay a professional to screw it up, or I can screw it up myself for free."

Now that is a great way to think of it! I like that, I may borrow that saying, but credit you for the saying.

[88Stanger]

Ok, so here are pics of the passenger side floor area adventure... sucks that I had to remove alot more than I had originally hoped, BUT in this case, it was good because I got to learn that just because it looks ok, what lies under may not be, and it was not as all, but short it will be!
Pics of the floor cut out and then the vent box area cut out and new replacement installed.
Today I plan to weld up the rest of the bent box and get the floor panel installed and welded up. Then wait for the kick panel replacement and the bottom tear drop shaped outside door pillar panel to come in, then get installed. After that, just replace the door stop area on the door pillar with replacement one from CaptainFab. This will finish the floor, FINALLY. LOL Then it s weld in the hole for the old gas tank, start on the roof pinch weld area, inside and out, above the passenger side.

[88Stanger]

vent box area

[88Stanger]

Question: How or what tool do you use to cut straight lines on exhaust or round pipe? Specifically when you are needing to make some slight bends in straight pipe, you can cut slight angles in the cut then spin one of the pipes just slightly to start the pipe in a new direction with a little bend? Thanks guys.