aluminum radiator question

[Kaptain Kadian]

I recently purchased an aluminum radiator and I missed some really fine print that it is only a direct replacement for a manual transmission. The seller said: If you have an auto transmission, you would need to modify and re-tap the ports and get the fittings separately. Also, another option is to get an external TOC. I don't under this. My transmission lines fit into the ports fine. Will it not fit because it doesn't have an internal transmission cooling box? What are transmission line ports on it for then? Thanks.

[EARNHARDT#3]

If your lines fit the ports then it's not an issue. They wouldn't be there if it didn't have a built in trans cooler.

[Aruba1]

Can you post pics?

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

I recently purchased an aluminum radiator and I missed some really fine print that it is only a direct replacement for a manual transmission. The seller said: If you have an auto transmission, you would need to modify and re-tap the ports and get the fittings separately. Also, another option is to get an external TOC. I don't under this. My transmission lines fit into the ports fine. Will it not fit because it doesn't have an internal transmission cooling box? What are transmission line ports on it for then? Thanks.

Easy enough to check. Take your garden hose and put in the bottom hole and turn it on. If it shots out the top your good to go.

[Kaptain Kadian]

Pic

[Kaptain Kadian]

I am away and won't be able to hook up a hose to it. Why would the ports be there if it isn't for the transmission cooler? I am all mixed up now.

[elkniks]

Looks like it has a cooler in it. I would try blowing some air through the welded on bungs(fittings)

[Andy4639]

It looks like it's all there. Can you see it from the cap looking inside the radiator?

[Kaptain Kadian]

Stupid question, but what would it look like?

[Kaptain Kadian]

Ok, I just went out and blew air in the bottom fitting, and it came out the top. So, I guess it has a cooler in it. I still don't understand what the seller was talking about. Anyone see a reason why I couldn't use this radiator on my truck? Thanks

[hamjet]

(((I still don't understand what the seller was talking about)))) he probably does'nt either. looking down through the radiator cap hole you will see a coil tubing going from top fitting to bottom fitting, also by blowing air like you did, if you put your finger over the other hole you should have pressure build-up.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by hamjet

(((I still don't understand what the seller was talking about)))) he probably does'nt either. looking down through the radiator cap hole you will see a coil tubing going from top fitting to bottom fitting, also by blowing air like you did, if you put your finger over the other hole you should have pressure build-up.

What he said!

[Kaptain Kadian]

It does build up pressure when I cover the top hole up and blow air in the bottom one. I checked the inside of it compared to the old one and they look the same. They both have a piece of tubing running from one hole to the other. Hard to see from the picture. Thanks for the responses, I really don't want to burn up my transmission. I don't have a temperature gauge on it.

[EARNHARDT#3]

He probably has no idea what comes in the box he gets from China. He's just assuming it has no trans cooler.

[trac209]

You have a built in trans cooler no doubting that now,but an auxiliary one is still a good idea if your truck will see some work or harder style driving.

[Aruba1]

Originally Posted by trac209

You have a built in trans cooler no doubting that now,but an auxiliary one is still a good idea if your truck will see some work or harder style driving.

I second that.

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

Thanks for the responses, I really don't want to burn up my transmission.

With the cooler being built-in, it's just like saying you don't want to use the radiator in fear of burning up your motor. I know it was a gauge but that cooler is there so it can work, just like the radiator is. I am looking for a manual radiator, if you want to see it drop me a PM (include the outside diameter of radiator and thickness). Thanks

[Kaptain Kadian]

This is the last response I got from the seller about it being a manual transmission only radiator: Hello,
Thank you for your reply. The way these radiators are manufactured are for manual transmissions. However, as you can see, there are ports on the right side for this radiator for automatic lines, meaning you can convert this manual radiator to an automatic radiator. The radiator already has a internal transmission cooler, but to be able to convert this manual transmission radiator to an automatic, we strongly suggest that if you are going to do this conversion, that you speak to a local shop or technician, to be able to avoid technical issue and receive the proper guidance on what will be needed to be done.

What would need to be done to convert this to an automatic one? I don't see any difference between the old one and the new one. Hopefully I am just over worrying about this. Thanks

[biketopia]

you're over thinking it and they are covering their own ass. Pretty much they say that so you don't screw the wrong fitting in and say it's damaged and the part they sold you caused a failure. If your lines fit and don't leak go for it. Double check that you don't need an NPT to flair adapter on the new radiator.

[Kaptain Kadian]

I spent some time test fitting today. It fits really well. I got the electric fans installed and got the relay system mapped out of where I am going to wire everything. The new core support fits perfectly too. I will finish wiring it up in a few days and be ready to reinstall the grille. I went with a derale 16749 relay kit, but decided to go with a different temperature sender. I am going to use the one that is just inserted into the radiator fins. Thanks for the help.

[Ruscal]

Your fans will cool much better if a shroud is used. That way the air drawn through the radiator will pass through all the radiator in stead of just the fan area.
Russ

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

I spent some time test fitting today. It fits really well. I got the electric fans installed and got the relay system mapped out of where I am going to wire everything. The new core support fits perfectly too. I will finish wiring it up in a few days and be ready to reinstall the grille. I went with a derale 16749 relay kit, but decided to go with a different temperature sender. I am going to use the one that is just inserted into the radiator fins. Thanks for the help.

Why would you go with the temp probe in the fins, damaging your new radiator and potentially becoming dislodged and not activating your fans. Use a sending unit in a coolant passage on the head or intake

Originally Posted by Ruscal

Your fans will cool much better if a shroud is used. That way the air drawn through the radiator will pass through all the radiator in stead of just the fan area.
Russ

X2 you're going to be leaps and bounds ahead in cooling ability if you have a shroud.

[Kaptain Kadian]

I have 2 temperature probes, one that is threaded and one that is inserted into the radiator fins. I want to run the temperature probe for the fan relay in the radiator and not the intake or heads. My threaded port on my radiator is 1/8 and my threaded port is 3/8. I bought an adapter to fit the 3/8 probe into the 1/8 port, but am concerned about it getting an accurate reading with the adapter on it. Anyone else ram an adapter like this?

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

I am away and won't be able to hook up a hose to it. Why would the ports be there if it isn't for the transmission cooler? I am all mixed up now.

Simple test. Get a piece of rubber tubing, insert it into one of the transmission ports and blow air from your compressor into that port. If air escapes only through the other port there is a built in trans cooler in your RAD and, since manual boxes don't have fluid pumps, your RAD is built for an automatic!

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

I have 2 temperature probes, one that is threaded and one that is inserted into the radiator fins. I want to run the temperature probe for the fan relay in the radiator and not the intake or heads. My threaded port on my radiator is 1/8 and my threaded port is 3/8. I bought an adapter to fit the 3/8 probe into the 1/8 port, but am concerned about it getting an accurate reading with the adapter on it. Anyone else ram an adapter like this?

I wouldn't want the probe that is responsible for triggering my fans in what is theoretically the coolest part of the cooling system loop, your engine temp might well be over 180-210, but the radiator is showing say 175 so your fans don't come on tell the engine is already over temp... Just my thoughts on the whole probe in the fins idea. Never seen a set up like that that looked good or worked well, at least for long. You're spending a bunch of time and hard earned money on your truck why skimp on something that small.

[Kaptain Kadian]

This is the way I understand it, I may be wrong, but this is what I have gathered from the forum here. The thermostat in the water neck let's the coolant in when the truck gets hot. The temp sensor for the fans needs to come on when the coolant is over a certain temperature to cool down the coolant in the radiator. If you put the temperature sender for the fans in the head, the fans could be coming on when the motor is over temp, but the temp of the coolant may be already cooler. The thermostat and coolant cools the motor, the fans and radiator cool the coolant. I would want the fans to come on when the coolant is over temperature to be able to cool the motor when it flows through the thermostat in the motor. I am not a mechanic and have a thimble full of knowledge on the subject, but that is the way I understand it. I think it mostly evens out once the motor heats up anyway and the fans will be running most of the time anyway.