Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...

[DD1]

Here is my attempt at what may or may not (probably not) be my brilliant idea. As you may know, I have an issue with the area where the firewall and floor seam meets. I was thinking I could cut a piece of the floor out of my old cab and use it to patch the new cab. So far not working so well.

I cut a piece that is WAY too big, figuring I could cut it down to size later and I avoid making a mistake by cutting it too small. I can't get the piece out of the cab as it seems to be welded to either the cab support or the brace below the cab. We have removed several of the spot welds from the brace as you will see. Trying to get the piece out without causing too much damage.

I am also posting new pics of the gap in the seam to show why I want to do this. One of the pics is taken without a flash and with a light behind it to show how much light comes through.

Dan, I may need that floor to firewall repair piece you made after all. PM the details of what I need to do to get it from you. How wide is the piece you made? Thanks!

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by DD1

Dan, I may need that floor to firewall repair piece you made after all. PM the details of what I need to do to get it from you. How wide is the piece you made? Thanks!

No prob just PM me your address and I will mail them to you. There are 3 extra pieces so just let me know how many you want. I get steel at cost and this cost me a few pennies so no worries there. they are 12.3" total width, This way they butt against the outside of the kick panel and end about in line with the edge of the floor bolt. The outrigger brace is in the way and there is a hump in the lower flange (arrow) that I didn't want to mess with and this all I needed to replace my damaged area. You could put two together or cut and fit as needed. well here pics explain it better. it looks brownish because I sprayed copperweld on the areas that i plug welded.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

No prob just PM me your address and I will mail them to you. There are 3 extra pieces so just let me know how many you want. I get steel at cost and this cost me a few pennies so no worries there. they are 12.3" total width, This way they butt against the outside of the kick panel and end about in line with the edge of the floor bolt. The outrigger brace is in the way and there is a hump in the lower flange (arrow) that I didn't want to mess with and this all I needed to replace my damaged area. You could put two together or cut and fit as needed. well here pics explain it better. it looks brownish because I sprayed copperweld on the areas that i plug welded.

thanks for the info, Dan! I will PM you my info shortly - just as soon as I finish posting my latest fiasco!

By the way, what does the copperweld do?

[67c10rustbuket]

Originally Posted by DD1

By the way, what does the copperweld do?

Well from what I know there are two kinds, Zinc rich and copper weld through primer. The purpose of them is that when you spot weld or plug weld (rosette weld for fancy people) there are two bare steel surfaces where corrosion can start and supposedly the weld through primers protect those surfaces. I chose the copperweld because zinc rich weld through primers are very bad for your health. I am somewhat anal and I don't want to die just yet and I don't want to deal with rust ever again so I used the copper weld through primer. I will be using seam sealer and then coating my floors with UPOL raptor liner (bed liner) on my floors top and bottom to further seal out the elements.

So now that we are well aquainted what is up with the name "trying to make junky perhaps just a little bit funky"?? Is that a song or just something you came up with? _Later Dan

[sgaylord]

You are doing great. I love the way you are being meticulous in fitting your new inner rocker. It pays to put in that extra time now, looks really good.

I think everyone has had to deal with gaps sooner or later, especially as we start out, I know I certainly have. You can see on my build where my passenger cab corner had that same type issue. I just welded a strip across both seams but now I wish I didn't since I found a better way. I guess I just chalk that up to leaning! . If I had known then what I know now (often overused statement), I would have cut an additional inch or two from the original metal and butt welded a strip between the old metal and the new. Basically two parallel welds but after grinding it down it would appear as one single piece.

It's also good getting the wife involved. My wife will help but when it comes to sparks she is not so willing. I will say she can block sand with the best of them. I'll need that help very soon!

I don't think I picked up on your name? What do you prefer being called?

Steve

[DD1]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

So now that we are well aquainted what is up with the name "trying to make junky perhaps just a little bit funky"?? Is that a song or just something you came up with? _Later Dan

LOL. That made me laugh. When I started this, I was trying to come up with something good to use as a subject line, and that was the best I could do. When I first removed the fenders and saw all of the hidden rust that I was really dealing with, I really felt like I had bought a piece of junk, hence the current title. After later reflection, I tried to change it to "The Rusty Restoration Project," but I think I would have to start a new thread to do that.

Originally Posted by sgaylord

It's also good getting the wife involved. My wife will help but when it comes to sparks she is not so willing. I will say she can block sand with the best of them. I'll need that help very soon!

I don't think I picked up on your name? What do you prefer being called?

Steve

Steve, yeah, my wife is pretty good about helping out when needed, although it took a little encouragement to get her going with the metal cutting, although as I said she kinda got into it. I think she would be more than happy to do it again if needed. She's an artist, so I count on her anytime I need a straight line cut, or for anything that involves painting. I literally automatically assign any job around the house that involves painting to her, using the reasoning of "You're the artist; you get to paint it."

My name is Darien, I don't really have a short name or nickname as my name is plenty short as it is. Some people just say "D," so you could always start your responses off that way ("Hey D").

Steve & Dan:

Steve said "If I had known then what I know now (often overused statement)." Well, I am fortunate enough to know now what you did not know then by virtue of receiving your advice and help on this post. I appreciate your help. Looking at the pics on Dan's thread helped me point out things I should be careful with, and the advice from both of you has been helpful in saving me from myself.

As far as the gaps go, I realize it's not a huge deal, but I was hoping I had cut it better than that. I think if I don't try to line up the seat belt hole, it will work out better. I realized yesterday that there is still a little space between the panel and the cab supports. I did not have time to work on it yesterday, as I finished doing some work on my motorcycle, then had to go for a ride as it was a gorgeous day, then of course the in-laws house for mother's day. Anyway, so I think I might be able to push it a bit further in if I ignore that hole and create a new one after I move it up.

I will probably try and get a little more done tonight and hopefully post again. I need to find our tile saw - I want to attach a metal cutting wheel on it so I can cut down the A-pillar patch panel to the right size and keep the cut perfectly straight.

Darien

[DD1]

Originally Posted by 67c10rustbuket

Well from what I know there are two kinds, Zinc rich and copper weld through primer. The purpose of them is that when you spot weld or plug weld (rosette weld for fancy people) there are two bare steel surfaces where corrosion can start and supposedly the weld through primers protect those surfaces. I chose the copperweld because zinc rich weld through primers are very bad for your health. I am somewhat anal and I don't want to die just yet and I don't want to deal with rust ever again so I used the copper weld through primer. I will be using seam sealer and then coating my floors with UPOL raptor liner (bed liner) on my floors top and bottom to further seal out the elements.

So now that we are well aquainted what is up with the name "trying to make junky perhaps just a little bit funky"?? Is that a song or just something you came up with? _Later Dan

I realized I never responded to this. So, Copperweld is basically a primer that still allows you to weld. And it's good to use when you are spot welding so you don't leave bare metal in between the two pieces where they might get corroded.

I don't think not wanting to die anytime soon makes you anal. Good call, though.

Any particular brand of seam sealer you recommend?

I like the idea of using the bed liner on your floors. I was thinking of something similar. I have not yet decided if I am going to POR15 my frame, just paint it, or leave it as is. I honestly don't have the patience for cleaning and painting the entire frame. I kind of feel like it's survived this long, it will probably outlive me.

I was planning on using either POR 15 or perhaps the rustoleum spray rubber on my floor ( Amazon.com: Rust-Oleum 265494 12-Ounce Leak Seal...). I will check out the UPOL raptor liner you mentioned as well.

I want to put a liner on my bed, as this will be a truck I am going to use, not just some pretty show truck that stays in a garage all the time.