rebuild question

[Bustacrab]

Ok, so i have determined that i can fix the problem with my engine by replacing the piston rings. I know i need a full gasket set, the ring set, and i'd like to get the valves done for good measure. what else do i need to make this work?

[60ratrod]

well i would personally do a complete overhaul if i were in your situation. like new rings, new pistons, bearings, having the cylinders bored and honed, head overhaul, get the block and heads cleaned and checked, and the crank ground and polished. i'm talkin a complete and total overhaul. but that's what i would do. the machine shop you take your block and heads to can give you the proper sized pistons, rings, and bearings

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Often you can do a ring/valve job & freshen it up. If the cyl. walls are not worn much & the crank looks good get a minor engine kit. It includes rings, gaskets, inserts & timing set. Send the heads out & have them done. Be sure to hone or deglaze the cyl. walls & wash them down with soap & water. If it needs more then that I just get a new or reman engine.

[Bustacrab]

well, the engine was rebuilt less than 30k miles ago, someone just drove it for about 150 miles with way too much oil in it, right before i bought the truck and now i have oil getting into the cylinders and all kinds of other places..

[60ratrod]

well have you done a compression check on the motor?

[70rs/ss]

Just get a rering kit, and it'll have the rings, bearings, and gaskets. The cylinders will need to be honed since it sounds as though the rings glazed the cylinders. Have the block mic'd before you buy the kit, as the cylinders can get out of round quickly and a complete master rebuild kit with stock/oe type parts can be had for under $300 and machine work etc, you can redo the longblock for under a grand and end up with a new engine. That is if the cylinders are oval shaped, if not, hone, and rering and go on.

[Bustacrab]

ok well, i went to a local machine shop yesterday, the guy i talked to told me that he'l take the engine minus the carb, and accessories and rebuild it with a valve job and rehone the cylinders, new pistions rings and even a stage 1 or 2 cam for 850 flat rate plus the difference on the cam. he stated that he will bake the block and heads and then bead blast them and rinse them. he also stated that he has a 12 month or 12000 mile warranty on his work. does this sound legitimate? the shop seemed professional and the guy was very knowledgable. plus the shop was recomended by a couple of local body shop owners.

[watahyahknow]

let us know how everything turned out and how the qualitie of his work is how he responds to questions and emails , the adress of the place .... that sortah stuff , im in the states on a regulair basis to buy trucks and cars the engines in those cars usually have run around the world a couple of times and would like to find a machineshop i can trust to do a good job rebuilding the engine and tranny since i'm not capable of lopping the stuff in the back of a car and drive it back to them from europe to repair under garantee

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

let us know how everything turned out and how the qualitie of his work is how he responds to questions and emails , the adress of the place .... that sortah stuff , im in the states on a regulair basis to buy trucks and cars the engines in those cars usually have run around the world a couple of times and would like to find a machineshop i can trust to do a good job rebuilding the engine and tranny since i'm not capable of lopping the stuff in the back of a car and drive it back to them from europe to repair under garantee

If you get to AZ I know of a few shops in Phoenix and even one or two in Tucson. A used early model 350 should be rebuilt, the only reason I'd be OK with a rering on this 350 is that it is supposed to have been rebuild 30-40K miles ago.


On a side note, I bought a Vortec 350 "core longblock" and spent less than $850 reringing it and I have a "new'ish" Votec 350 with a roller cam. The engine (being late model and efi) didn't wear out, the PO just decided he needed a "new" crate engine for it and GM only gives $150 core charge back so I bought it for the "Core price" and it was perfect inside, reringed it with a hove, new beraings everywhere, completely rebuilt the Vortec heads and had under the $850 mentioned above in it, so Shop around for a late model efi engine as you'll end up with a better motor (roller cam, and hyper pistons, WAY BETTER HEADS!!! and you can sell the 350 you have now to offset the cost but not till the EFI engine is done and ready to drop in which helps prevent down time (not real important if the truck isn't a daily driver), but if it is you can drive it up till the "weekend" the efi is assembled and ready to drop in, one out, the other in and you are ready to go on Monday!?


just a few other thoughts to help you make a well informed/though of all the options type of decision?? I hope I didn't confuse or upset ya, not trying to be a jerk or anything, I have just decided that I built my last early 350 a few years ago and have done 3 87-99 efi 350 (2 of which were Vortecs).

[Bustacrab]

is the EFI difficult to install in an old carbureted vehicle like this? i work with electronics and wiring for a living, but i've never wired an EFI system.

[watahyahknow]

i know painless makes a wiringloom for this swap
i'm not in arizona all the time unfortunately , the newer engine might be an option but i'm not there long enough to hunt one down and rebuild it myself after machining .
maybe that will change after a while , thanks for the info if its time to redo another engine i send you a pm asking for the adress of the shop

[70rs/ss]

Originally Posted by Bustacrab

is the EFI difficult to install in an old carbureted vehicle like this? i work with electronics and wiring for a living, but i've never wired an EFI system.

Not too hard, but a Vortec 350 from 96-99 is just a late model version of the early 350 so a cab'd intake and a carb, hei and the Vortec is a carb'd motor just like any early SBC except it has a roller cam, and way better cylinder heads!

[Bustacrab]

hmm.. sounds like it might be worth the effort to atleast scout the area before i make a decision! thank you

oh, what exactly is different about the vortec head?

[watahyahknow]

the vortec heads have been developed to flow more they have varre different vorm of inletport , that allso why they need the different manifold , there the best flowing stockers for this motor and are cheap too

[Longhorn Man]

I agree on the late model engine... the roller cam is a HUGE advantage since now oils don't support old school cams.
Improved oiling, improved cams, better heads, better gasket technology, one piece rear main seal....
It's an all around better engine.

[Bustacrab]

there are a couple of late model auto salvagers around here, and i'm going to see someone tomorrow about a tailgate and a fender apparently he is a 35 year retired mechanic and has a mini junk yard of old chevy's. I think i'm going to pick his brain for a little while too and maybe he can point me in the direction of the vortec gods.

[Longhorn Man]

Rollers started in 87/88, I would be more worried about getting a roller cam than i would be about the vortech heads.
The heads will be nice, and make some power, but the block with the roller cam and improved oiling is way more important.

[70rs/ss]

But if you can score a Vortec why not? I just found another 96 Vortec running in a wrecker the other day, I'll be bringing it home ASAP!