67-68-69-70 Disc conversion brake lines and hoses

[Grumpy old man]

After installing the Stainless brake lines and chasing a set of soft lines that actually fit the hard lines from the back of the front cross member I used the Duralast 88466 hoses , you need to do a little filing on the frame mount but not that bad , 2 1/2" drop spindles , Right front wheel pictures, A little chafe wrap and they should be fine .

https://www.inlinetube.com/products/sctb67d4

1) Full left turn
2) center
3)full right turn

[67C10Step]

Those are the same ones I used. I modified the end of the hoses instead of the frame tab. Fit like a champ.

I believe they fit a 1969 Buick GS.

[70STOVEBOLT]

My truck is stock height, and those hoses fit perfectly with the stock drum brake lines without modification.

[Chiefdan]

Grumpy, My '67 has been converted to disks by po. The rubber lines are so long that they form a loop. Are these the lines I need to correct this situation?

[67C10Step]

I will jump in and answer for Grumpy and say "yes" these are what you are needing. On my 67 they fit well and give you plenty of play for lock to lock turn without issue.

The end that fits into the frame is different than the tab so you either have to rework the hole in the frame tab or the end of the hose. I chose to rework the end of the hose a bit. About 10 minutes each and they fit into the stock frame tab.

[Chiefdan]

Originally Posted by 67C10Step

I will jump in and answer for Grumpy and say "yes" these are what you are needing. On my 67 they fit well and give you plenty of play for lock to lock turn without issue.

The end that fits into the frame is different than the tab so you either have to rework the hole in the frame tab or the end of the hose. I chose to rework the end of the hose a bit. About 10 minutes each and they fit into the stock frame tab.

Thank you for replying and might I ask exactly what needs reworking. I am mechanically inclined somewhat so I'm sure I can manage it but what does not fit and needs adjusting? Thanks again.

[67C10Step]

The end that goes into the tab on the frame is slightly too large to fit into the star (for lack of a better term) opening in the tab. Instead of a multi sided circle the end is more like a square with the corners 45'ed off. I just filed each flat until it would fit into the opening in the tab. Took about 10 minutes on each hose.

[custom10nut]

Saving this! Thanks Grumpy

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by custom10nut

Saving this! Thanks Grumpy

I bought these awhile back from info in a thread I read about 3 years ago . I had the standard new lines installed but I didn't like the way they fit so I changed them out to the stainless lines that fit pretty good and I finally had time to install the calipers and these hoses and just brought up good info that worked for me . I spend the time to research parts compatibility before I buy them because I can't stand sending anything back . The post I read was from LEDDZEPP .

"I just did a disc brake conversion on my 68. The brake hoses you need are part number 88466 at autozone. $9.95 each, they are the same ones ece sells for $50 a pair. They connect directly to your existing brake lines and your new calipers with no adapters needed. " - leddzepp

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=738254


Use that search box above , All the info you need is already there if you look for it !

[67C10Step]

Grumpy,
You and I researched the same thing and read the same old post! Thanks to LEDDZEPP and the search function.

[pjmoreland]

I have a cautionary tale about brake hoses for 67-70 front disc conversions. It's a bit embarrassing, but I figured I should share the details in case it saves someone a little trouble (or maybe a lot). The hoses that came with my conversion kit were way, way too long, so based on the recommendations on the forum I went to get the 88466 hoses, but Autozone was out of stock. I looked up the hoses for the same application at O'Reilly, and it suggested Brakebest BH73242, so I went with those.

Fast forward several months. I was under my truck and happened to notice wear marks on the hoses where the tires would rub when turning all the way. Shame on me for not checking clearances with the full weight of the truck on the suspension! I replaced the hoses this evening with the Autozone 88466 units, which are actually about half an inch shorter than the hoses from O'Reilly. That half inch makes a big difference. Playing around with the clocking of the stationary end also makes a big difference. I checked clearances at both extremes of steering, and with the suspension weighted and unweighted. It doesn't come close to rubbing anywhere now.

By the way, my calipers orient the banjos so the hoses point rearward instead of upward, which makes the hoses closer to the tires.

I'm so glad I didn't lose my brakes!

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

...<snip>...

I'm so glad I didn't lose my brakes!

I installed a Baer brake kit on my '94 TA nearly 20 years ago. I kept hearing a "tick...tick...tick" at full lock either right or left while climbing up my parking garage at the Office.

That "tick...tick" was the wheel weight on the inside edge of the wheel tapping or hitting my SS brake lines in the front at full lock.

One day I went to stop at a red light and the pedal went straight to the floor with no stopping power at all. Fortunately for me this happened at relatively low speed and so the hand brake was enough to bring it under control and get it home.

Lesson learned the hard way....pay particular attention to obstructions with the suspension at ride height and anywhere else in its travel...or suffer the consequenses!

BTW: brake fluid went all over the passenger side of my TA. Took me maybe 15 minutes to get home using the handbrake and cleaned it off the paint. No damage!

-klb

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by weq92f

One day I went to stop at a red light and the pedal went straight to the floor

Wow. You really dodged a bullet there. I was picturing myself on a freeway off ramp at 80mph with my pedal hitting the floor or some other equally horrifying scenario. Once when I was a kid I was riding with my older brother in a '30s Ford truck that had its brakes fail on a hill that had a stop sign at the bottom of it where it teed with a highway. Somehow he was able to swerve around several cars both at the stop sign and on the highway and kept the truck on the road. That memory haunts me.

[RichardJ]

In my first image, taken from the first post above, the flex line WILL WEAR against the upper A-arm, when the spindle moves up/down.

When the caliper is mounted at the rear of the axle center line. the fixed end of the flex line should be mounted forward of the axle center line.

When the flex line is mounted forward of the axle center line, the flex line simply has to flex left or right behind the spindle. When the flex line passes through a vertical line between the upper and lower ball joint, the flex line will not have to loop or stretch out as the spindle articulates left/right or up/down.

Chevy originally mounted the hard lines on the front side of the truck cross member then farther forward onto the frame.

In my opinion, the smart move is to use the Square Body solid front lines that mount on the cross member under the radiator. The combination valve mounts there as well.
Then you can buy the Square Body flex lines across the counter and stop trying to find a non-existent, non-original flex line that almost works.

[Grumpy old man]

I came back to this thread to add whatever brake line / hose combination you choose to use you may want to use chafe wrap like I suggested in the original post when using any aftermarket system on your truck . Better to be safe than sorry .

https://www.amazon.com/Pre-Cut-Spira...ct_top?ie=UTF8