Some Dumb Crate Engine Questions

[BrentBTK]

I've had the idea of a new crate motor since I bought this truck in November for a couple reasons. First, it's making a pretty significant knock and is consuming some oil. Second, I sold a very reliable 2020 Ram Limited and replaced it with this, and I want to start from as much known good as possible. As it is my "daily" driver, I can't really be without it for a few weeks while I tear the engine down and rebuild, so I'm thinking a new crate motor is my best choice for down time, difficulty, and long term reliability. I've been doing a fair amount of research and am most likely going to go with a Blueprint Engines crate motor. Nothing too extreme, I like the 383 that runs on 87 Octane and the 350 Cruiser. Both have respectable numbers but don't seem to require much else as far as stall converters and whatnot. Anyway, I ramble. In my research, I have found a couple differences and questions. First, and I can't imagine it's a big deal, but the dipstick on all these motors is on the passenger side. Mine is on the driver's. Second, how do I know which flexplate I have or need as far as tooth count? It's a 350/TH350 combo. Third, are there any obvious, or not so obvious "gotchas" that I should also be aware of? I'm leaning towards as complete a motor as I can afford to minimize transfer of parts or extra purchases. I assume new motor mounts are probably a good idea. I see some options out there with the front accessories already bolted on. I like the idea of everything installed and on a serpentine setup. Has anyone done that? If so, are there any traps as far as accessory placement on the new motor versus the old? (Power steering lines, etc) Thanks, guys. I'm pretty sure I'm going to do this, I just want to have as many of my ducks in a row as possible.

[Dead Parrot]

New transmission mount. New coolant hoses. New belts. New power steering hoses. All new vacuum lines. New fuel pump. Maybe new water pump.

Take the old flex plate with you to get a new match unless the engine supplier specifies one for you.

Buy a new starter. Much easier to get any shims done with the motor upside down on a stand with you looking down as opposed to the starter trying to fall on your face once the motor is in the truck.

Take the transmission to a shop and have it inspected and maybe a reseal job done.

If you replace stock manifolds with headers, there will be a few bracket gotchas.

[garyd1961]

I would get one with a hydraulic roller cam for a daily driver. The flexplate will depend on one piece rear main seal or two piece. Get a starter that matches the flexplate. A mini starter works great, don't let the size fool you.

[truckster]

I put an L31 in my Blazer, so I have a little experience. Which side the dipstick is on won't matter. Are you planning on carburetion or fuel injection? If you're going with a carb, you'll want to know whether the block has provisions for a mechanical fuel pump. The roller cam is a really good idea - less chance of trouble with break-in and it's more efficient. I installed my own serpentine setup based on a 98 Vortec engine. If you have AC you'll need to adapt it to the new compressor, and you may need to change the fitting on the back of your PS pump. My AC is on the driver's side and the alternator is on the passenger side, but that didn't really create too many problems for me since I rewired the entire truck and built a custom AC system. I would change all the hoses and the radiator - you don't want old junk contaminating your new engine. Definitely change the motor mounts.

I'm sure there's probably more, but those are just off the top of my head. I'll come back to this thread and see if I can answer any questions or if I think of anything else.

[BrentBTK]

Thanks guys. Definitely going with a roller setup. I have skipped right past anything with a flat tappet. I've been going back and forth between EFI and carb, and I think I'm going to stick with carb'd. I don't want to deal with the extra hassle and expense EFI brings to the table. I'm looking at these two motors. The first is the "Cruiser". It's 341/371 HP/Tq, runs on 87 Octane, and is available in various stages of dress. The link is to the full serpentine setup I am considering.

https://blueprintengines.com/product...ed-front-drive

The second is a pretty mild 383 with 410/422 HP/Tq, also tuned to run on 87 and not need a special stall converter or anything.

https://blueprintengines.com/product...-for-87-octane

Obviously, I'm looking for decent performance with good drivability being the priority for me. I don't need a screamer, just a rumbler, lol.

[Warrens69GMC]

You could always go with Chevrolet performance

CHEVROLET PERFORMANCE CRATE ENGINE SP 350 CID 385 HP 19417781

https://paceperformance.com/Chevrole...-19417781.html

[BrentBTK]

Originally Posted by Warrens69GMC

You could always go with Chevrolet performance

CHEVROLET PERFORMANCE CRATE ENGINE SP 350 CID 385 HP 19417781

https://paceperformance.com/Chevrole...-19417781.html

An option, for sure. I think availability will play a big part in my decision. I'm hoping to pull the trigger next month, and finding engines that are available within the next 60 days or so is as much of a challenge as everything else right now. I'm still fighting the Finance Minister on approval, so we shall see...

[truckster]

I built my 350 for 330 HP and 400 lbs-ft of torque. There are times I think I should have gone with the 383... not most of the time, but sometimes.

I guess you'd have to see if there's anyone who went with a 383 who wishes they'd gone with the 350. My guess would be no.

[BrentBTK]

Originally Posted by truckster

I guess you'd have to see if there's anyone who went with a 383 who wishes they'd gone with the 350. My guess would be no.

"I wish I got the smaller motor"... said no one... ever, 😆

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by BrentBTK

"I wish I got the smaller motor"... said no one... ever, 😆

Except the guy who bought the 307 in his Camaro.
Coulda had a 302 instead! For not a bunch more money!

[Warrens69GMC]

Originally Posted by BrentBTK

"I wish I got the smaller motor"... said no one... ever, 😆

Or the 1999-2000 c/k1500 guys with their 350's that could have went with the Silverado 5.3L (323)

[BrentBTK]

Lol, fair enough!

[garyd1961]

I went with the L31-R for the 4 bolt main block but it really doesn't make a hill of beans difference. I just got a deal for the 4 bolt at $100 more than the 2 bolt. I'm running the factory cam, a Holley carb, long tube headers and I'm happy with it. People talk down the factory cam but the people who see my truck run don't. I'm not taking it to the dragstrip but it has a lot of torque and will get up and go.

[BrentBTK]

I'm getting closer to pulling the trigger and am thinking about flexplates and starters. I know I need a new flex plate to match the one piece seal on the new motor. What I don't understand is tooth count. Does it matter, aside from matching the correct starter?

[truckster]

Originally Posted by BrentBTK

I'm getting closer to pulling the trigger and am thinking about flexplates and starters. I know I need a new flex plate to match the one piece seal on the new motor. What I don't understand is tooth count. Does it matter, aside from matching the correct starter?

I didn't see where you mentioned what truck it's going into. If you're running a TH350 or TH400 you'll be using a 168 tooth flexplate that's got two bolt patters (SAE and metric). I used a high-torque mini starter on mine and it works great.

[BrentBTK]

Originally Posted by truckster

I didn't see where you mentioned what truck it's going into. If you're running a TH350 or TH400 you'll be using a 168 tooth flexplate that's got two bolt patters (SAE and metric). I used a high-torque mini starter on mine and it works great.

It's a '71 GMC, mating up to a TH350. So, does that mean the tooth count corresponds to the transmission?

[truckster]

Here's the one I used:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-fp-350l-sfi

The one-piece rear main seal crankshaft has a different bolt pattern than the two-piece, and the L31 was only mated to metric transmissions. This flex plate will mate to your L31 crankshaft and the SAE bolts on your TH350 torque converter.

[BrentBTK]

Originally Posted by truckster

Here's the one I used:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-fp-350l-sfi

The one-piece rear main seal crankshaft has a different bolt pattern than the two-piece, and the L31 was only mated to metric transmissions. This flex plate will mate to your L31 crankshaft and the SAE bolts on your TH350 torque converter.

Perfect! Thank you!

[KyFarm]

I would absolutely go with the 383 for all the reasons above, and to add its the same amount of work to intstall and you aren't gonna want to do it again, go with the one with more HP/TQ.

My other recommendation is get one that is "turn key" or very close to it. Unless you have much experience with what works on motor swaps and what doesn't it might take MUCH longer to do the swap as you investigate, buy and wait for parts to come in.

If budget is a hard limit, I might even go with a less HP model that is turn-key than a long-block with more HP.

[BrentBTK]

Originally Posted by KyFarm

My other recommendation is get one that is "turn key" or very close to it. Unless you have much experience with what works on motor swaps and what doesn't it might take MUCH longer to do the swap as you investigate, buy and wait for parts to come in.

If budget is a hard limit, I might even go with a less HP model that is turn-key than a long-block with more HP.

This is what I just did. Summit Racing had a 350 with 365Hp/400Tq fully dressed with a complete serpentine setup installed for 6k. 383 was the same price without the accessories and a few other things. I went with the 350 for ease of install, everything is new, and it's still well over 100HP than I have now. Plus, she'll run on 87 octane.

[BrentBTK]

The new motor and accessories showed up yesterday. It's gonna rain until tomorrow night, so I haven't even opened the crate yet. I'm dying! I do really appreciate the fact that Blueprint includes a dyno sheet for your motor. Advertised 365/HP 401/Tq. Dyno'd at 385/409. Bonus!

[verdell]

Years ago when I was in the market to replace my worn sbc 350, I went with a crate 383 and built 700r4. Ran like a champ from the moment I broke it in up until I sold the entire drive train. I didn't beat the hell out of it but drove it as intended and didn't pet it. I can imagine a roller set up would be even better.

[rharris]

Excited to hear how you like it once it’s installed. I kicked around a crate for awhile too, just never did it. I kept going back to blueprint when comparing.

[biketopia]

I have BP 427 SBC in my Camaro, runs great, always been able to get ahold of them if I had a question too.