What wires can I remove from the factory harness?

[cornerstone]

Now that I have a dedicated workspace I'm finally back on my 72 C10 / L83 swap. I'm now at the point of installing the factory truck wiring. I dug the original truck harness out of storage and gave it a good cleaning. I would rather remove whatever excess wiring is not needed before I install it in the truck. I figure it'll save me a backache if I do it while it's on my workbench instead of me trying to becoming a contortionist and doing it while its on the truck.

I've installed a 2014 L83 (5.3) with a 6L80E automatic transmission. I already have the stand alone harness for the engine and it only needs a few wires to make it run. I also have the Dakota Digital RTX series gauges and a Vintage Air system I need to install and accommodate for.

Any of you fellas care to enlighten me as to what wiring you would remove to make as clean of an install as possible? Or maybe you have other things for me to consider? I'm all ears...

[clay68c10]

You can take out the original amp gauge wires (2) and the temp sender wire.
You can use the coil power circuit as your power for the key on (also during crank) circuits for the swap harness.
The purple starter wire can also be the trigger for the swap harness start signal.
The brown wire for the ALT light can also go, as well as everything for the regulator and alternator.
That's all off the top of my head. I'm sure there may be something else.

[Accelo]

Anything to do with the heater can go, except for the light bulb(s) for the display.
Be sure you have the factory AIR controller for the Vintage Air system retrofit.
And install the dash pad before installing the wiring if you want to keep the contortionist at bay.
Then I would install the radio and work around it.
Getting it in with the Vintage Air on one side and the dash on the other is more difficult than it looks.
Especially if using the rear bracket for a stock radio.

[cornerstone]

Thank you both for your input.
-Brian