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Old 05-01-2019, 04:29 PM   #26
rechinca
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Thinking here (dangerous I know) but has anyone used a bronze bushing in here to help prevent wear? I know I may have to drill out the bell crank to give room for the bushing but since it’s all apart it would be a simple fix now.
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:25 PM   #27
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Somewhat productive periods yesterday and today. My fan/clutch from Randy500 as well as a bunch or parts to rebuild my bell crank. Fan got degreased and blasted yesterday. Today it got its new satin black epoxy paint.

Bell crank and clutch linkages were reassembled and installed along with a clutch fork boot and new bushings in both ends of the shift rods. Kind of weird there is no slop, no wiggling no rattling now!
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:31 PM   #28
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

I plan on pulling the shift rods and trunnions off in a couple of weeks to wire wheel/blast and paint. I am out of time for this weekend (yeah my weekend is Monday-Wednesday this week) and next week I have to head to Northern Oregon to bring the boy home from college for the summer. Maybe then I can get my radiator mounts finished.
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Old 05-21-2019, 10:54 PM   #29
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

More parts on order but got some stuff cleaned up and a new one in from Wyoming and Harlow. My bracket at the end of the clutch pedal (where it hooks to the upper clutch rod) was just plain worn out. Harlow sent me an as advertised near mint one including the bolt and spring clip to secure the clutch rod! I also finally took apart the booster bracket, media blasted it and painted it up with VHT epoxy Satin Black. Looks pretty good I think.
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Old 06-06-2019, 04:17 PM   #30
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Lots of little things done, tons more as I mission-creep 1 step forward 2 steps back. No pics on the first part, but what I have is a new to me 3 core radiator sourced and installed. Aftermarket rubbers for the radiator brackets suck. I ground a crap load off to modify the profile enough they would allow the radiator to sit in the support low enough that the 7-blade fan & clutch wouldnít hit. Itís only in temporary right now as I have decided to install factory brackets/pulleys to give me PS. The manual box was shot and completely unsafe.

I didnít want to install my refurbished PB booster bracket and booster yet as the firewall behind it was so ugly from a leaky master cylinder. Lots of surface rust. Add in a non-existent boot for the brake pushrod and a shot column seal and I felt it best to properly (or at least semi-half-assed) clean the firewall in that area and spray at least a 2íx2í area back the factory orange. Which you guessed right, the steering column is now out and in the garage! It will be at least two weeks before I get back to her due to work and some house repairs.

I did get in the clutch rod bracket/connector at the end of the clutch pedal shaft. Beautiful part from a board member that required 2 minutes of bead blasting them some satin clear to make it ready to install. Hopefully some pics on my days off this week.

Lastly, purchased a Vulcan brand multi-process welder. It was about 30% of the new price with less than 3í of flux wire used. TIG and stick attachments are still boxed up as well as the gas meter. Guy never used it, had his receipt and it was 4 months old. He needed money so I bought it with a decent helmet, gloves and jacket. Figured it was cheaper than a bargain basement MIG only so if I kill it learning how to weld I am really ahead of the game. Plus I have some small areas to tack up and weld shut I need to do before I reinstall the heater box and get the engine filled with coolant.
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Old 07-26-2019, 12:18 AM   #31
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Been way too long since I have gotten any work done on it!

Had to do some wiring in the garage to handle the welder. The panel and breaker were already there but I had my compressor hard wired into it. Got that fixed, so I got some blasting done! I had some issues in my wiring gutter that needed attention. Namely, the dreaded rust through...mostly just some spots where the old seam sealer allowed water penetration and fostered rust in the three sandwiched layers. From what I can see it is mainly in the level of the inner cowl to firewall. My plan is to have my helper hold a copper welding spoon to the back side of the holes while I do some small tacks across the holes and fill them in. If it doesnít work I will then have to try the fun task of welding in a patch in that channel and I really didnít want to disassemble my cab. Although letís be honest here, the column gauges and outer heater box are already removed so there isnít much more to go.
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Old 07-26-2019, 12:26 AM   #32
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Here is the view from the bottom side. I am trying to just get this solid enough I can stop my water leaks til I can afford the time and money to do the cab right. I realize I may end up just re-doing the effort later with proper metal replacement, but I need to get this sealed up somewhat right so I can seal the seam before winter rains get in the cab any more. I donít have the indoor space to put this (Trans Am that is blown apart is occupying that now) to long term this project. If you have any advice or thoughts Iíll gladly take them!
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Old 07-21-2020, 05:48 AM   #33
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Wow, it has been almost a year since an update?! Just goes to show the new job I took last year has kept me way too busy!

Right now, and for last several months, Sloth has languished in the driveway with no front sheet metal and the engine wrapped in layers of visqueen. Rust in the lower cowl has been cut out and the radiator support has been stripped and prepped for the Brothers patch panel to go in. Which also means I got a new toy in a Miller 215 Multi process welder.

Tomorrow the engine trans comes out so I can clean the frame for paint as well as remove the front suspension for powder coating. All new bushings and CPP modular drop spindles will be going back in. Thank goodness for work from home most days! Hopefully a driver again within the month!
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Old 07-24-2020, 08:01 PM   #34
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Ok, disassembly went even more sideways last couple of days. Pulled the control arms and crossmember for detailing and powder coating after we pulled the engine and trans. More and more amazed at the idiot who worked on this previously to me.

Starter: top ear was broken but at least the grease and dirt buildup was holding the bolt in from the back of the bellhousing. Middle was good and snug, wait WTH is that third bolt???

Clutch: yep like the previous owner stated it had a new clutch recently, flywheel...waiting to hear back from the machine shop. It was UGLY with hot spots. Never understood why guys don’t get those done since they are that far into the trans removal. Oh yeah, missing two bellhousing bolts too. I mean all those threaded holes are just suggestions right?!

So as she sits in the driveway, Sloth is naked from the firewall forward.
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Old 07-24-2020, 08:03 PM   #35
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Nothing like a driveway build.
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Old 07-30-2020, 12:45 AM   #36
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

More work done! Front part of frame is stripped to bare steel! Looks pretty good. A lot of Purple Power with a green scuff pad took the majority of 49 years or grease, grit and grime off (and some of the rust). Then hit it with a wire wheel on my angle grinder and it was almost perfect clean steel. I coated it with two coats of Eastwood Platinum rust encapsulator the. Two coats of Extreme Chassis Satin Black. Looks pretty dang nice! Love the way this paint lays and sprays out of the can.
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Old 07-30-2020, 12:50 AM   #37
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Now for the question I didnít want to ask. Here are some pics from the inside of the cylinders. I am thinking itís a pretty solid ďtime to rebuildĒ issue. Let me know what you guys think. Keeping in mind I could stretch for a rebuild right now plus itís out of the truck on a stand at this moment.
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Old 07-30-2020, 10:22 PM   #38
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Gaining serious traction today. I bought a Miller Multimatic 215 to learn to weld for this project. Hadnít tried it out yet so no time like the present! Fired it up and finished the patch on the passenger side of the radiator support. Not pretty and had a fair amount of grinding to do, but got good penetration judging from the back side. Practice makes perfect and I have a LOT of patches to do!
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Old 07-30-2020, 10:24 PM   #39
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Forgot the pic...
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Old 07-30-2020, 10:35 PM   #40
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

That welder is gonna come in handy.
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Old 07-31-2020, 10:15 AM   #41
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Congrats on the welder, .023, 75/25 and low heat for the sheet stuff. Gonna be a neet beater when you get it rolling!
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Old 08-27-2020, 12:29 AM   #42
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Finally got started patching the lower cowl today. Learning to weld and make patch panels makes for an interesting day. And Ol Blue (Dennis) stopped by. Got to meet him and talk shop for a while.

Had to make two patches. Once I started welding in the first one, found I had some thin spots in the seam and had some blow throughs. Not a problem, cut out some more bad metal and made patch #2. Overall, not bad for a first timer. Learned a couple things and was able to work on my technique in an area that will be completely hidden once itís back together.
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Old 08-27-2020, 04:42 AM   #43
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Looks good to me...oh and by the way, my name is Dale.
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Old 08-27-2020, 03:08 PM   #44
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

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Originally Posted by notsolo View Post
Interior looks nice, not a high priority but you may want to try wet sanding exterior with 320 grit wet dry paper, once you break thru the black bump up to 600. Others have done this with great results.
I would start with 1500 grit. In my experience, 1000 grit actually eats the spray paint pretty quickly. Maybe even start with 2k and that way when you get through to the good paint you're actually kind of just cleaning it up. And then 1500 for the areas that were a little thicker. And then a thousand for the stubborn spots. I agree it's a shame that he rattle canned it, but from another point of view, he protected that other paint for you to uncover and preserve.

Thank you for your documentation and pictures. These kind of builds are my favorite. I like to fix what's there and make the best of it. And if I'm a little bit honest, I enjoy watching the crazy stuff that you are uncovering and getting fixed. Hopefully, brakes are on your hit list before you take it on the road.
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Old 08-27-2020, 03:11 PM   #45
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

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EZ Off cleaner, Works like a charm my truck had been stripped with a sander then primered black. Less than two cans to take it off. Basically washed it off with a hose and wash mit. Used the rest on motor and suspension. Its cheap and it works.
I'm not sure this poster realized you're trying to preserve the paint underneath. I think Easy-Off would damage it if not removing it as well.
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Old 08-27-2020, 03:12 PM   #46
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

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Originally Posted by Redneck Rydes View Post
Don' you just LOVE fixxing other peoples repairs,the nut missing from the shaft made me shudder,I would find the guy that did that,remove 1 of his nu$s and let him drive around like that
Hahaha! Exactly right.
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Old 08-27-2020, 03:20 PM   #47
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

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Originally Posted by rechinca View Post
Thinking here (dangerous I know) but has anyone used a bronze bushing in here to help prevent wear? I know I may have to drill out the bell crank to give room for the bushing but since itís all apart it would be a simple fix now.
My two cents is that I would be disinclined to put a softer metal at a wear point like that. True, you can swap out the bushing but it seems that it might wear fairly quickly there. The original hole held up pretty well for 50 years, considering.

Also, I wanted to say that I appreciate a welder who will charge $15 for a small job like that, knowing that he could get 35 pretty easily, and probably even 45, without losing too many customers. Probably only takes him five or six minutes, but still...

Sorry about the multiple posts, but there were a number of things here that I thought it worth commenting on. Hopefully you will have this neat ride up and running soon and can enjoy it. And use it to haul parts for the Trans Am. I'd like to see pictures of that too as I am a bit partial to those myself.
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Old 09-07-2020, 04:25 PM   #48
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

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Looks good to me...oh and by the way, my name is Dale.
How the hell dis I do that Dale? Next time I owe you beers! Thatís what I get spending so much time out in the sun welding and grinding!
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Old 09-07-2020, 04:34 PM   #49
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

I know I posted in a couple of other spots, but I wanted to keep all of my stuff running in one fluid thread too for documentation purposes.

So word to the wise, be way more careful than I was with the spot weld cutters. Got a little aggressive in a couple of spots. Caused several drill through locations with the next layer of metal leaving 5/16Ē holes to fill. Then it hit me, one of my flanger/hole punch tools makes 5/16Ē holes which provided perfect little pieces for filler matterial!
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Old 09-07-2020, 04:45 PM   #50
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Re: 71 C10 LB: Code Name Sloth

Lower cowl patch and repair completed. I treated a bunch of the areas around the fresh air vents with Permatex rust convertor after scraping out all of the old seam sealer and sanding down any rust I could get to.

** little tip her me for rust on the bottom side of the vent holes *
- I used Emory cloth as well as some 80 grit paper cut in strips and ran it back and forth like you were polishing metal. Cleaned up a lot of the heavy scale rust hidden up under there!

I hit everything in the lower cowl and the vent area with Eastwood Platinum Encapsulator. I brushed it on and it covers very well. Do yourself a favor and buy a couple of decent brushes though. I spent $10 total on good 1 1/2Ē and 2 1/2Ē Ace Hardware brand brushes and it left zero brush strokes.

Next up will be covering all of the seams with fresh seam sealer and then painting before welding in the new inner cowl panel.
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