The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > Info Center > FAQ Truck Tech > Suspension, Steering and Brakes


Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-04-2012, 01:30 AM   #1
Registered User
SCOTI's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 20,510
Budget Relocated Panhard Bar Mount

Originally Posted by **grumpy**
.....Hey Scotti
I was looking at a thread you posted in from 2008 about self-made lowering blocks. I have the same 2" square heavywall that I plan to copy your design.
Im on a shoe-string budget, so it works for me. I like how you welded panhard tabs on sides.

Can you send me pics of the whole panhard set-up? If I can figure a way to build one like you did, it would be much cheaper than a super trac bar for sure.

Thanks, I appreciate it.
Grumpy asked if I could share some pics/details of a previous incarnation of my 'better/optimized' Panhard bar (PHB) arrangement. Unfortunately, I don't have those pics any more. But I can describe what I did & took some pics of one of the blocks....

I made some standard 2" x .250" wall lowering blocks & put them in place for 'brainstorming'. I then installed the PHB into the factory 68 driver side frame mount w/a level attached. I moved the PHB until it became level & surprisingly found it was on the same plain as the lowering blocks. This gave me the idea to fab an integrated double shear bracket set-up for the PHB off of the lowering block.

If you were to look @ the top of the PHB where it would intersect w/the pass side lowering block, I mounted the tabs fore/aft of the PHB bushing. This placed the forward tab roughtly @ the middle of the block & the rear tab was roughly 2” from that.

For the forward tab, instead of just butt welding it to the block, I actually notched the block & slid the tab in. This allowed me to weld it from the front, top, & opposite side. This ensured the bracket wasn’t going anywhere. The rear tab was just butt welded to the front of the block surface.

For the PHB, I intended to use a long adjustable bar from CPP but hated the ‘remove, adjust, re-align, re-install’ method of adjusting when I used their standard length adjustable bar (because they adjust @ one end only). My budget solution was to cut-up 2 different original bars @ one end leaving the full length of the bar & 1 bushing. I installed the bushed ends on each side (1 @ the driver/frame mount, the other @ the lowering block tabs) & then marked each where they intersected. I then trimmed them slightly shorter (equal amounts off each bar) & had each end threaded LH/RH (just like a tie-rod). I used a GM disc brake truck tie rod end sleeve & turned the sleeve to shorten/lengthen the bar as needed to get a true center w/full weight on the suspension.

I revised the PHB mounts on my next round of changes because I went even lower & using these lowering blocks did not allow the bar to be parallel @ ride height any more. The combo of parts used was: 2” home built lowering blocks, home built adjustable long (approx 34”) PHB, 2500#/RE-6 dbl convoluted bags directly bolted in, modified OE shock brackets, stock replacement gas shocks, & CPP bolt-in notch.
Attached Images
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
SCOTI is offline  


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:32 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2020