Suburban rear floor

[WH0DAMAN]

I replaced mine with the floor out of a 2005 Yukon XL. It was a big pain in the buttocks but well worth the work. All of the seats from the Yukon fit like a glove now. The floor modification requires frame modificatin as well. You can look at the link for my 70 burban to see what we did. I can also take some more photos.

[Gobuffalo]

I decided not to use the truck bed floor as the wheel well holes are larger than the suburban. It would require sectioning length wise, I am not that good of a welder. Replaced it with marine grade plywood that was a little thicker than the original piece. Fortunately one of my best friends is a carpenter and he cut, drilled and routed until it fit perfectly. He copied the 2 pieces exactly and put it back together like the factory with the small "key" at the right front. Before I reinstalled it I primed with boat primer.

[Gobuffalo]

I sealed every thing with body seam sealer. Had the braces powder coated. Then covered the bottom of the floor with bed liner the same color as the paint. I found a product called UPOL Rapter that is tintable in any color. I covered from the pinch weld at the front lower edge of the fire wall to the rear. It took of the bed liner kits. This is a 4 wheel drive that will get dirty so I wanted easy to clean.

[Gobuffalo]

My floor was not rusty, so I am going to use it. I would like to put different seats in. I like the bench seat out of my 2007 Silverado, power, attached seat belts, middle folds down to make a console. I would like to replace the seat with one the folds down so I could have more room in back.
Any body done this? Any good ideas that don't require major floor mods?

[Jbsweezy]

So how did you guys end up removing the wheel wells? I went to remove them last night and was having a hell of a time. Are they spot welded on? Thanks!
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[1970greenburb]

Jbsweezy yes they are spot welded in, best way I found is to wire wheel or flapper wheel them at edge of the wheel well so you can see the spot welds better. Take or buy yourself a spot weld removal bit ,then take a 1/16 drill bit and find the spot weld and drill in the center or center punch them ,but the drilling works better this way the removal bit does not move around on you and drill them out, they are a pain but they will come out, hope this make,s since and helps out. Good Luck

[Jbsweezy]

This definitely makes sense, thank you!
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[Jbsweezy]

Also was wondering, what size plywood did you guys use to replace the floor?
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[Gobuffalo]

Originally Posted by Jbsweezy

Also was wondering, what size plywood did you guys use to replace the floor?
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You need a 5' wide piece. I found some 5 x 10 tongue and groove that's used for making concrete forms. The only problem is its 13/16" thick. The original floor is 5/8" thick. Some router work at the edges is needed to make it fit. Can't tell from the inside and everything on the outside fits. Love the extra insulation.
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[Jbsweezy]

Ya I am having a heck of a time finding the 5' piece and everyone I talk to, including boat builders, are saying 5x9 sheets are long gone. Looks like I may just have to use two 4x8s to get this going unless I get lucky.

[Gobuffalo]

Originally Posted by Jbsweezy

Ya I am having a heck of a time finding the 5' piece and everyone I talk to, including boat builders, are saying 5x9 sheets are long gone. Looks like I may just have to use two 4x8s to get this going unless I get lucky.

Squires Lumber in Colton CA. $100.00 a sheet. Used for making concrete forms.
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[Mr. D]

Here's a link that may (or may not) be useful:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=574056&page=2