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04-20-2018, 06:44 PM | #1 |
6>8 Plugless........
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Prairie City, Ia
Posts: 17,141
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
That is exactly what I started doing for my 72 to house my air pressure gauge, switch, and other switches. I haven't finished mine yet. Great work on it. That black box on the core support is an external voltage regulator for the alternator. Someone must have installed an alt with an internal regulator in it.
That looks so much easier to work on the dash with it removable. I really like the big flat piece on your new vice. That would be great to have.
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Ryan 1972 Chevy Longhorn K30 Cheyenne Super, 359 Inline 6 cylinder, Auto Trans, Tilt, Diesel Tach/Vach, Buckets, Rare Rear 4-link and air ride option Build Thread 1972 GMC Sierra Grande Longhorn 4x4 1972 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20 Long Step side tilt, tach, tow hooks, AC, 350 4 speed 1972 C10 Suburban Custom Deluxe 1969 Chevy milk truck 1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR STG3 Cam Super T10 1940 Ford 354 Hemi 46RH Ford 9" on air ride huge project Tired of spark plugs? Check this out. |
05-22-2018, 02:27 AM | #2 | ||
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Patriot IN
Posts: 163
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Re: 1970 C30 Car hauler Buildish thread.
Quote:
Thanks! Quote:
I plan on doing the same with mine. I guess I will need to delete it as I plan on installing a high output alternator to run all the components I have planed on installing. I'm really happy I remembered to make the piece when I had the dash out. It would have been a pain to weld in the nuts with everything installed. But I suppose I could have used a rivnut/ nutsert. So its been awhile since I have been on here. I keep getting side tracked. But I have made progress. Though not as much as I had hoped for. So I started work on the doors they were complete junk. The inner and outer part of the lower doors had been replaced. However they did a poor job and the started rusting out then they were filled with bondo and fiberglass. I was hoping to just re-replace the bottom of the door but I ended up having to replace the complete outer skin. IMAG1399 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1400 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr Here is what I am working with. IMAG1373 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1372 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr My new skins and inner lower panels came in the other week. IMAG1434 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1435 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1436 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1437 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1438 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr My lower control arm U bolts also came in. IMAG1439 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr Back to the doors. IMAG1465 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1466 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1468 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr Lots of cutting, trimming, fitting and rust removal. IMAG1469 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1470 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr Cheap planes IMAG1472 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1471 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1473 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1474 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1475 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1476 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1477 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr Rusty metal primer on where the rust was and primer sealer on the clean metal and over the rusty metal primer. [IMG]IMAG1478 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr[/IMG] I installed some nutserts as the origenal nuts where missing when the panel was hacked up. IMAG1480 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr Then I proceed to breaking my tool on the last one. I sent an email to smittybilt wanting to buy a replacement part for the tool and they sent me a compleat replacement free of charge! IMAG1479 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr Anyways I undercoated the door inside. IMAG1481 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr Now on to door number 2. IMAG1482 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1483 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr I sprayed the inner door skins with primer sealer then undercoated them. IMAG1495 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1496 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1497 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr I'm going to have to go back and cut drain holes in the other one as I believe that is what caused them to rust out to begin with well that and the way they where hacked togeather. IMAG1504 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1505 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1506 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr So before I could seal up the doors and install the new skins I ended up buying some new toys! Radius dimple dies and a hydro knockout punch set. Unfortunately the knockout punch set is in mm and not inche like it was listed on ebay. More on that later. IMAG1511 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1513 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1524 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1523 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr So back to the doors, Something I have wanted to do since I bought the truck. IMAG1526 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1527 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1528 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1529 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1530 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr So it turns out the knockout punch set is in mm not inches and the dies are just a little to small. So I ended up having to ream them out with running a hole saw backwards not to rip the metal. Then I had to clean it up with a file then a dremel. So I only got one side done today and I had to order a new die in inches. IMAG1532 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1531 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1533 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr IMAG1534 by jarrod vanwinkle, on Flickr So now I get to wait till next week for the new die to come in. |
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air ride, c30, cummins, nv4500, ramp truck |
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