65 Fairlane pro-touring build

[KevinK7]

The attention to detail on this build is crazy. The mismatch of the inner fenderWells, and pie cuts to correct, Wow, very impressed with your skills here

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by KevinK7

The attention to detail on this build is crazy. The mismatch of the inner fenderWells, and pie cuts to correct, Wow, very impressed with your skills here

Thanks very much for the kind words. I'm trying not to go overboard this time, so I'll be more inclined to drive it.

More cutting and metal shaping...

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[Vic1947]

Outer PS wheelwell is welded and mostly cleaned up. The inner w/w will need to be split and about 2-5/8" added to it to reach the subframe rail.

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[Vic1947]

The right rear quarter panel saga continues...

Because the 66-67 wheelhouse pinchweld flange doesn't match up with the 65 inner panel, I had to add a filler piece. The photo below shows the upper section. I fab'd up two other pieces below that will provide as much support as possible. I also formed a curved flange to add support in the same area as the original. These will get panel adhesive and stainless rivets because I can't get in the area once the wheelhouse is in place.

[Vic1947]

At this point, it was time to use the metal wheel of death to remove the section of quarter panel I'm replacing. That part went smoothly enough. I hardly ever have problems deconstructing stuff. Putting it all back together is where the stupid starts. After trimming the replacement panel to allow room for final fitment, I clamped it in place. The wheelhouse arch matched up pretty well, but I have a major hiccup with the body lines. The upper body line is about 5/8" too high as you can see in the photo below. I've been pondering the situation and I'll have to pack up the panel and head down to my buddy Keith's place and use the English wheel to flatten out the existing line and then use an 8' brake to relocate the line. I can't believe they were that far off when they put the existing line in. Fortunately, I have the resources to be able to recover from a setback like this, but not everyone is.

[Rickysnickers]

Watching this thread and seeing your work, I'm sure you will get the body line right on. You are 100% about others. If I were to do something like what you are doing, I'd be up a creek trying to find a fix.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

At this point, it was time to use the metal wheel of death to remove the section of quarter panel I'm replacing. That part went smoothly enough. I hardly ever have problems deconstructing stuff. Putting it all back together is where the stupid starts. After trimming the replacement panel to allow room for final fitment, I clamped it in place. The wheelhouse arch matched up pretty well, but I have a major hiccup with the body lines. The upper body line is about 5/8" too high as you can see in the photo below. I've been pondering the situation and I'll have to pack up the panel and head down to my buddy Keith's place and use the English wheel to flatten out the existing line and then use an 8' brake to relocate the line. I can't believe they were that far off when they put the existing line in. Fortunately, I have the resources to be able to recover from a setback like this, but not everyone is.

Would it not work to section the difference between where the body line 'is' vs 'should be' & just add material back to the top (vs removing a body line & then re-creating another on the patch piece)?

Not sure which would be more work though (?).

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Would it not work to section the difference between where the body line 'is' vs 'should be' & just add material back to the top (vs removing a body line & then re-creating another on the patch piece)?

Not sure which would be more work though (?).

I think I've already painted myself into a corner regarding that option. The panel is pretty much cut to size and after removing the "difference" I'd have to scab a piece back on to replace the missing material. So that would leave me with two seams. The material is so thin (0.026" or 24ga) that even booger welding will probably be a nonstarter. I had planned to use 3M panel adhesive to join the OEM sheetmetal to the patch panel. Another issue I didn't mention previously is that two spots above the wheel arch are bulged out and need to be worked back down. My thinking was that while I had it on the English wheel, I might be able to get those areas back in shape.

As you mentioned, either way is going to require some finesse.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

I think I've already painted myself into a corner regarding that option. The panel is pretty much cut to size and after removing the "difference" I'd have to scab a piece back on to replace the missing material. So that would leave me with two seams. The material is so thin (0.026" or 24ga) that even booger welding will probably be a nonstarter. I had planned to use 3M panel adhesive to join the OEM sheetmetal to the patch panel. Another issue I didn't mention previously is that two spots above the wheel arch are bulged out and need to be worked back down. My thinking was that while I had it on the English wheel, I might be able to get those areas back in shape.

As you mentioned, either way is going to require some finesse.

Gotcha. Sounds like a solid plan from your logic.

In my head eliminating a body line w/the English wheel starts stretching the metal possibly in ways not anticipated.

And, sheet metal that thin.... I tack it w/the MIG & then get someone w/a TIG to zip it up. Working through stuff like that now on my Malibu project.

[mongocanfly]

That sucks... but wow....that's some thin metal..!!

[jaros44sr]

Victor I was wondering if I could get some advice from you

You mentioned you were going to use panel bond, I've never used it before and was wondering how much set up time you have before the panel bond goes off

Great work so far, and enjoy your write up

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

That sucks... but wow....that's some thin metal..!!

Yeah, if you hold it up to the light, you can almost see thru it.

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Victor I was wondering if I could get some advice from you

You mentioned you were going to use panel bond, I've never used it before and was wondering how much set up time you have before the panel bond goes off

Great work so far, and enjoy your write up

Thanks! 3M makes a couple of versions, 08115 and 08116. I'm guessing there are other adhesive products on the market but those are the only two I've used. Working time differs slightly, although both are ambient temp sensitive. At 70 degrees you have about 1.5-2 hours to reposition panels. If your shop temp is hotter the time goes down. At 100 degrees, you have about an hour at most. The main difference between the two versions is related to manufacturer specifications. For me, that's not an issue so I usually get the 08115. They also have different part numbers depending on the applicator style. An applicator can be pricey, but most paint supply houses will rent you one or let you use it free with a deposit.

You typically only get one mixing tube, but you can buy extras on eBay or elsewhere. I remove a used mixing tube, throw it away and clean the area where it attaches. I then replace the shipping cap when I've only used a partial amount. If you're careful to keep the epoxy and the catalyst from coming in contact with each other, it will last a long time on the shelf. I've been able to use the same dispenser several times until I use all or most of the material.

One other thing about the stuff is that as long as it hasn't set up, you can use a spot welder to add mechanical joints. I don't typically do this but it's nice to know you can if you want.

[jaros44sr]

Victor great info just what I needed, it was the cost of the applicater that threw me off, but I will check with my supplier

Should give me enough time to get it buttoned up

Thanks for your time to explain that

Sorry to hear about that side panel not lining up

This is what I did so far and did you use lacker thinner for cleanup does it come off your hands, does it smell strong

17115430442306797632180518517808 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/97391199@N06

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

This is what I did so far and did you use lacquer thinner for cleanup does it come off your hands, does it smell strong

I use lacquer thinner for cleanup and if you get adhesive on your hands, thinner will work to remove it. I confess that I usually use nitrile gloves when dealing with any kind of pookie. That way, I can use my finger to smooth out a bead and/or remove excess material then peel the gloves off and trash them. The adhesive has a bit of odor but it's not so bad that you need a fan running with the doors open.

[jaros44sr]

Thanks for all your help I'm going to go for it

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Thanks for all your help I'm going to go for it

Here's hoping it goes perfectly for you! I know the first time I used it; I was nervous as a cat in a room full of rocking chairs. From what I've seen, if you have the patch exactly where you want it and have all the clamps and tools handy, it goes well. I put a roof skin on a 68 C10 using it and it worked great.

I split the inner PS wheelwell and started the process if widening it. I plan to use stainless rivets and panel adhesive to join the halves together. Probably do the same with the inner and outer wheelhouses - maybe even the wheel arch. That's still a little ways off.

[jaros44sr]

I was worried the clecos would get glued to the panel, thats why I used screws

Nice work

Nice Kennedy rolling tool box

Supply house was closed I'll have to wait until Monday

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

I was worried the clecos would get glued to the panel, that's why I used screws

Nice work

Nice Kennedy rolling tool box

Supply house was closed I'll have to wait until Monday

Definitely don't want to use clecos or you'll ruin them. Screws or rivets are a better choice. Good luck!

The last place I worked gave me the Kennedy box as a retirement gift. it's a quality piece. It will still be working great long after I've croaked.

[Vic1947]

The widened wheelwell fits pretty well. I heed to scab some material on to fix a couple of places where I went a little crazy with the snips. But other than that, it's going to do just fine. A pro shop would have cut the forward section of the subframe to widen the tub equally front to back. Mine is more pie shaped to follow the subframe but will still give me plenty of tire clearance.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by Vic1947

Definitely don't want to use clecos or you'll ruin them. Screws or rivets are a better choice. Good luck!

The last place I worked gave me the Kennedy box as a retirement gift. it's a quality piece. It will still be working great long after I've croaked.

Supply house called applicater and panel bond is there, curious he said to apply over bare metal, don't know as I would think it would be an area to rust, might try a painted test piece to see how it bonds

Congratulations on retirement that seems to be a more practical gift then a gold watch that you only wear on special occasions

What field of employment did you work?

Nice work on the wheel tub

[Vic1947]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Supply house called applicater and panel bond is there, curious he said to apply over bare metal, don't know as I would think it would be an area to rust, might try a painted test piece to see how it bonds

Congratulations on retirement that seems to be a more practical gift then a gold watch that you only wear on special occasions

What field of employment did you work?

Nice work on the wheel tub

Thanks, Jim. I have no experience painting the lap joint. I always use it on bare metal. I did my PS wheel tub yesterday and applied the adhesive that way then cleaned the edges with lacquer thinner. I think I remember a 3M tech article that said you could apply a DTM paint to the surfaces but not to do that if you planned to also spot weld. I think if you lay down a good coat of epoxy primer over everything after the fact you won't have a problem with corrosion.

I used several clecos to position the parts prior to riveting them together with stainless fasteners. I then soaked the clecos in thinner and blew them out with compressed air and they seem no worse for the wear. I used some old ones that could be sacrificed just in case.

After a stint in the Navy as an aviation electronics technician, I used the GI bill to get an engineering degree and went to work in the oil patch. When that went in the crapper in the mid 80's I migrated into the software business as a sales engineer. Got canned in a reorganization late in life and was unable to find work until a good buddy helped me get an inside sales job at a machine tool company. Finally got my sack just barely full enough to retire and I'm livin' large now.

[jaros44sr]

Thanks for tips, we'll see how it goes

Spring break in upstate NY, visiting grand children so I won't be able to work on the truck for a week

With your background I see where you get your ability to work on those restorations with great results

[Vic1947]

Just checking in - I've been busy getting the trim ready for powder coating. The shorter pieces I can put in the glass bead cabinet, but the longer ones had to be done by hand. I use an 80 grit DA sander to start with, then block with 280 and finish with a grey Scotchbrite pad. But before I can do any of that, I have to work out all the dings with a variety of tools. Normally I'd send the stuff off to a shop in WI that does the best repair on the planet, but since I'm going the powdercoat route, absolute perfection is not a requirement.

So, I took all the trim as well as the front/rear bumpers and brackets to Sedalia today. The bumper stuff will be sandblasted and set aside for work later on, but since I had a couple of other things to do in town, I multitasked. The number one reason I made the trip was to put a new body line in the quarter patch panel. I think I mentioned earlier that C2C had it in the wrong place, so I dollied it out completely and used my buddy Steve's 8 ft brake to relocate it to the correct position. Turned out great! Now I just need to start fitting the other panels like the trunk drop downs. More to come,,,

[Vic1947]

Made a material run to Metal by the Foot this morning to pick up some 18ga steel sheet to make new trunk floor drops. I had a pair that came with the car when I bought it, but they were supposedly made for 62-66 models. They had an angle formed into them that didn't match the subframe connectors in mine. So, I beat them flat and used them as a pattern to make new ones. While I was at it, I bead rolled a completely different pattern in them to suit myself.