Radiator

[backroadbandit]

Does anyone know what the best new radiator would be for a 1972 Chevy Blazer that has power steering, power brakes and air conditioning. It is a 350 automatic 4 wheel drive. Thanks.

[Classics Fan]

I guess “best” can be subjective. I just replaced the radiator in my 71 Jimmy outfitted according to your description. I’m old school and didn’t even consider aluminum. I went with this one from Speedway and am happy with it so far. My only concern is the copper cooling fins. They are definitely thinner and lighter, and bend more easily than the old non-Harrison it replaced.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1967-72-GM-Truck-and-Blazer-4-Row-Radiator-OEM-Replacement,73785.html
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[Spf79]

I am trying the aluminum one, I have not run the motor yet... but I went off of the recommendation of a friend that has been running this set up for at least a year and he is happy.

It is the 4 core radiator from Brothers Truck parts. I believe it is a champion MC369? I was happy with the price. I decided to add the dual electric fans and delete my flex fan. The electric fan set up with the shroud is from radiator4less.

if you go this route, make sure to purchase their radiator mounting brackets and rubbers. This one also came with a built in transmission cooler for your auto tranny.

good luck!

[geunther]

I just had my original re-cored. It was pricey because of being copper. If you have a core it is a good route. Essentially I have a new radiator with the original tanks.

Quality radiator shops can do good work but these shops are getting few and far between.

[Classics Fan]

Originally Posted by geunther

I just had my original re-cored. It was pricey because of being copper. If you have a core it is a good route. Essentially I have a new radiator with the original tanks.

Quality radiator shops can do good work but these shops are getting few and far between.

Agreed if you have OEM (Harrison) tanks and not something inferior. My problem is my tanks aren’t original. The price to recore was $700! Versus less than $500 for new copper and brass. No doubt the spread is all the labor cost to properly recore.
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[truckster]

I used this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's aluminum and I've been very happy with it so far.

[hemi43]

The cheap aluminum rads use epoxied tubes. The better ones have soldered tubes.
If you can weld aluminum, by far the cheapest route is to make your own. On average an aluminum rad can be made for less than $200 using excellent quality components.
I get all my cores from here----> https://howeracing.com/

On a side note;
When it comes to anti freeze, Don't use the green stuff on newer engines because it will screw up the engine seals, and don't use the red stuff with older rads because it reacts with the soldered joints in brass rads.
If you're using a newer engine like an LS and also using the original brass rad, then use the yellow anti-freeze. If I recall, it's propylene glycol.

[mcmlxix]

I was looking at a company called Cold Case. They make aluminum radiators with OE looking stamped tanks on the sides. The have standard and LSx swap options.

here is a thread on them ...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=796321