1967 C10 Urban Retro

[tune_1]

Looking good. You have come a long way. Keep it up.

Dwight

[Orangetonicclicc]

Originally Posted by tune_1

Looking good. You have come a long way. Keep it up.

Dwight

Thanks Dwight!

[Orangetonicclicc]

Took Brian's (Xeen) advice and purchased this from LMC also got the chrome cylinder radiator reservoir. Just set it up there to see how it looks. I still need to buy my Vintage Air System and I'm waiting for my powder coated parts that's needed to button up that area like my radiator retainers and my hood support piece that goes under the hood latch.

[Orangetonicclicc]

Attachment 1332156

For those interested on how the wiring is going. Well not too bad. Painless pretty much maps the task out for you. I spent the last 2 days routing my wires to there proper location in the engine bay. The Dakota Digital Dash takes some of the headache out of the wiring equation by isolating the oil pressure, temp sensor, and speedo cable which eliminates the use of those wires that come on the painless harness. I'm getting help from Chris from Bowtie468. I need to purchase a sensor for my relay electric fan application. And I'm awaiting some education from him in the steering portion of the wiring.

But until then! Here is another picture of the radiator add ons to wet your whistle or just possibly anger the old school cats! Lol!

[Orangetonicclicc]

Got my plugs in! Heavy duty!

[Orangetonicclicc]

MSD Super conductor wires!

[Orangetonicclicc]

I'm trying to figure out how to wire my steering column. This is the connection part that is connected to my steering column. I don't know if this needs an additional harness connector or can I just plug and play? Here you go Chris? If anyone else have any feedback it would be well appreciated! Pictures would be great!

[Bowtie468]

Perfect ! Do u have the flat female piece from your old harness . If so , release the wires from it and wire as follows .
The painless harness will have the proper terminals already crimped on the wire , ready to clip into the female connector that I just mentioned . Then you'll simply plug the male and female together .


Painless Wire #. / Connector terminals
953 / G
926. / H
925. / J
951. / K
952. / L
949. / M
948. / N
918. / P

Looks like that column harness has the correct GM colors except for terminal "H"
In your pic it appears to be gray ? GM color code ( and Painless ) will be light blue . See if you can find that connector on your old harness . Hopefully it wasn't the 9 port half moon connector .

[Orangetonicclicc]

[/ATTACH]

Originally Posted by Bowtie468

Perfect ! Do u have the flat female piece from your old harness . If so , release the wires from it and wire as follows .
The painless harness will have the proper terminals already crimped on the wire , ready to clip into the female connector that I just mentioned . Then you'll simply plug the male and female together .


Painless Wire #. / Connector terminals
953 / G
926. / H
925. / J
951. / K
952. / L
949. / M
948. / N
918. / P

Looks like that column harness has the correct GM colors except for terminal "H"
In your pic it appears to be gray ? GM color code ( and Painless ) will be light blue . See if you can find that connector on your old harness . Hopefully it wasn't the 9 port half moon connector .

I found the female connector. But the holes seem smaller than the spade connectors from the painless harness to fit in. I didn't want to force it. I noticed on the instruction it showed 2 different sizes. Can I buy this connection at a local part storeor is this just a special after market part? Chris I have several other questions in the near future but I don't want to overload you all at once. I would call the tech guy but by the time I get off work they are closed. Man I really appreciate the help! I'm chipping away at it

[Orangetonicclicc]

As I stated chipping away. The Dakota Digital kind of changes the game. I'm truly taking it one wire at a time. Got the headlight switch mounted and found it's connection along with the wiper switch, cigarette lighter, and dome light. That's pretty simple. Need to find how to wire my tailights to that preexisting harness connection next.

[Xeen]

When you go to install the Core support filler panel if the bolt holes don't line up like they should don't try to force the bolts in but instead use a round file to open up the holes so they line up and make sure you use painters masking tape around the hole to keep from gouging the polished surface just in case you slip.
I had to do it on mine and it worked great.

[Orangetonicclicc]

Originally Posted by Xeen

When you go to install the Core support filler panel if the bolt holes don't line up like they should don't try to force the bolts in but instead use a round file to open up the holes so they line up and make sure you use painters masking tape around the hole to keep from gouging the polished surface just in case you slip.
I had to do it on mine and it worked great.

Thanks Brian. I figured it would need some massaging into place. Thanks again for a great look!

[Bowtie468]

Yes that's definitely the correct connector that you need . It actually measures about 2 5/8" Not sure where Painless got those two measurements , but regardless , it's correct . Study the orientation of the terminal to connector before installing them . I don't remember mine being tight but then again, that was prob two years ago .

[Orangetonicclicc]

I wished I would have shaved my harness firewall hole and relocated my harness but hindsight is 20/20! Classic Industries has some cool chrome harness housing to mount to the firewall and clean that up so. That's what I will do to hide the wires. I kind of like easy access to the fuses under the dash. Painless even has a cover for the front too I may get in the future but first thing first let's get some lights!

[Orangetonicclicc]

Went back and forth about a painted glove box door or a chrome one? Well decided to go with the chrome one. My latch is not catching although. Any suggestion guys? I moved it up as far as it would go but still not latching

[Orangetonicclicc]

Took the evening off. I think I may have damaged the female steering connector when taking those pre-existing connections out. A new one is only about $20.00. I also test fit my new shorty Hedman Hedders. I thought I was going to have to notch my inner frame for fitment. Looks like I can set my motor back 3 inches using the pre-existing holes and CPP tubular motor mounts and tranny mount. I spent the evening reading back over the instructions. I may get to install the remaining glass this weekend and get some help scooting that motor back and then I can install my headers. Staying positive!

[Orangetonicclicc]

Here is a picture of my header dilemma. As you can see by the additional hole in the back of the mount. That will allow me to go back. There's a hole directly below on the crossmember to mount the mount base to. This will give me the clearance for my header!

[aycock20]

Were did you order your headlights? Truck looks awesome and that is for sure a slick paint job. What about your exhaust, how did you run them??

[Orangetonicclicc]

Originally Posted by aycock20

Were did you order your headlights? Truck looks awesome and that is for sure a slick paint job. What about your exhaust, how did you run them??

Thanks Trey!
I got my headlights from a local classic truck company that has now went out of business. I haven't ran my exhaust yet. That will probably be one of the last things I do. I'm interested in seeing if I can cut holes on the thru crossmember in each side where the drive shaft goes thru. Just don't know if that will weaken the frame's integrity?

[Xeen]

The CPP tubular engine stands are notorious for interfering with exhaust manifolds and headers, even though it seems like a step backwards you would be much better off ordering the CPP sheet metal engine stands and getting rid of the tubular stands.
The CPP sheet metal stands were designed to replace the tubular stands and give maximum clearance for exhaust manifolds and headers and it is worth it to make the switch.
The tubular stands can be modified to allow extra clearance but you need to be able to section and weld them.

[Orangetonicclicc]

Originally Posted by Xeen

The CPP tubular engine stands are notorious for interfering with exhaust manifolds and headers, even though it seems like a step backwards you would be much better off ordering the CPP sheet metal engine stands and getting rid of the tubular stands.
The CPP sheet metal stands were designed to replace the tubular stands and give maximum clearance for exhaust manifolds and headers and it is worth it to make the switch.
The tubular stands can be modified to allow extra clearance but you need to be able to section and weld them.

I know Brian and if I knew better at the time. I wouldn't have purchased those but. We got her done. I've taken so many steps back on this build that I might as well be walking backwards. But I'm learning that, that is just part of the journey! Mistakes, burned money, I countless, hours, busted knuckles, cuts and bruises. Critics and naysayers. But there's guys like you and others that make it worth while! Thanks again bro!

[Orangetonicclicc]

Small Rear windows installed
True 67

[Orangetonicclicc]

Front glass with the stainless strip

[Orangetonicclicc]

Been waiting for my windshield to be installed to put on my rear view mirror. Sometimes it's the little things!

[WiggyHD]

If you want some help with the wiring, let me know! I can get some pictures of the routing on mine to go by...

Mark