?? for those with 700R4 tranny - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Custom 68 · 09-23-2002, 03:22 PM

Allright I am thinking about the 700R4 upgrade. What did you do to yours to make it live before installing? I understand 88-89 were the best years to look for. I would like to be able to withstand 350-400 hp small block (just a dream). If I get a running one that feels ok what should be done? I would like for this to last but am also looking for the least expencive way to do that

.
Thanks in advance...
I have a 400 turbo no but just something about that lower first gear and overdrive

Oh yea what about the torque converter. Do you need or use a stall with the moderate hp engine?

Project1970 · 09-23-2002, 03:28 PM

I bought my 700R4 pre-built with a shift kit (unknown which one) from www.phoenixhardparts.com. The tranny itself was built great and the price is good, but the people there aren't the brightest. I didn't worry too much about having an ultra-stout 700 since I'm only pushing 260-300hp right now.

Regarding years of transmissions...yes, you want an '87 or newer, but you need to be careful as far as speedometer setups and wiring. A lot of the '87-ups were in computer controlled cars, but the year depends on the vehicle it was from; '87 Monte Carlos were electronic, '87 Camaros weren't... '90 Firebirds were electronic, '90 Camaros weren't, etc etc.

All you need to convert the electronic style to the older style, though, is a new 4th gear pressure switch, the speedometer gears, and the speedometer sleeve. If you get it all new, the sleeve is by far the priciest part at nearly $60...try and pull it from a junkyard.

DeepPurple · 09-23-2002, 03:54 PM

If you're really worried about horsepower you'll need to step up and either go to 3 gears (TH350 or 400) or to something ridiculous like the 4L80-E.
But if you're only doing 400 hp a 700R4 will do

Currently I have a Jet Performance 700R4/T700 in mine attached to a small block that makes somewhere near the range of horsepower you're wanting to. Bought mine from Jet Performance which makes IMHO a darn good transmission. Additionally the folks out there are very knowledgable and will custom build the transmission to take a lot more abuse than they say it will on their website, and they set the tranny up to work with older vehicles (meaning all the electronic stuff is gone or self contained and it will work with a cable speedometer).
Only problem is that they're a bit on the expensive side, as you're looking at about $2K or more.

Horsepower=$$$

1-PU70 · 09-23-2002, 04:13 PM

I paid 200 for a take out from a 87 S10 Blazer with converter and TV cable. Here is what I did. I wouldnt bet my life on the facts but its what Ive been told. I took it to a trans shop to have it reseald . He told me to have the bushings changed too or the new seals would go bad. So I hade the seals and bushings changed. $60. They would also wire it to lock up in 4th and unlock when it drops to 3rd. Nice and simple. The shop told me it was nice and clean in side so it was a good bet that it was OK. The S10 comes with a 2000stall converter stock but the smallest servo. After driving for a while didnt like the way it shifted so I had a Corvett servo put in. $35 + $15 to install. Didnt improve the shifts that much. I then added a shift kit at same shop. $150 When the valve body was out they found the plate was NG and some springs were NG too.Replaced parts at no extra charge. Now it shifts great. So I have $460 in it and Im very happy. Oh yes I added a B&M lock up controll $150. It ties into the spedo cable and you pick the speed to lock. I have mine set at 60 to lock and when it drops to 50 it un locks. Im very happy with it. I would count the 150 for the lock up controll in the totall cost because it stays with the truck not the trans if you neen a new trans. Its behind a stock 402 and I tow. Here are two tips i would recomend. 1 Get the bigest trans cooler you could find. Heat is the bigest problem with auto trans. 2 you can adjust the TV cable yourself. Im from the old school. You dont need pressure gauges. I just foll0wed the directions in a Chilton manual. Worked fine. Good luck.

Gordo · 09-23-2002, 04:54 PM

I took an 85 700R4 (I know 87 and up is better, but this was a freebee) had it rebuilt and upgraded using a non-locking converter, no switches, no electronics, (price $750) installed a B&W shift-improver kit, ($60) installed the correct speedo gears and sleeve, ( aprox $45 from the GM dealer) and that was several years and 50K ago and no complaints. I also tow my 22' camper with this truck.

Project1970 · 09-23-2002, 05:11 PM

No offense to anyone; but I don't see why one would need one of those lockup kits. It's really not hard at all to wire it up so the tranny does it itself, and it's MUCH cheaper. All you're looking at as far as circuitry is a brake switch, a vacuum switch, a pressure switch, and a solenoid. Simply wire 12V to the normally-closed brake switch, then to the closed-at-high-vacuum (low throttle) switch, and then to the transmission. Inside, whether your pressure switch controls the 12V or the ground depends on whether your solenoid has 1 or 2 wires; if it has 2, it's easier to make the switch control the ground. This way, the circuit is only completed in 4th gear, when the brakes aren't applied, and when the engine is at high vacuum (low throttle), and the tranny locks. Lockup is very nice.

sam's 72 · 09-23-2002, 05:56 PM

I am not sure what year mine is, I bought it from a guy I work with, he had it built to stand up to 500hp. He had it built so that it goes into lock up hydrolicey. He put right at 1000 mile on it, then decided to go with a different 700r4, said his wife does not like the way it shift. It does shift hard, it is even got a firm shift going into over drive. NO WIRES TO HOOK UP AT ALL! I really like the way it acts in the truck. I am in the process of building a 383 with about 450 to 475 HP, when I get ready to put this engine in, I am going to change out the converter to a 2500 stahl. Right now it is behind a 305 stock. It works great. I paid $ 500.00 for it, after I had the tranny guy look at it.
Sam

sam's 72 · 09-23-2002, 06:03 PM

I meant to tell you also, that be sure to have the TV cable adjusted RIGHT! Have a tranny guy or if you know how to do it your self, put a set of gauges on it so that it is adjusted right. If not it will not last, the TV cable control shift point and fluid pressure. I also advise to get the biggest tranny cooler you can find. They make one called tru cool, it is built like a miniture radator. It is not your basic tubes back and forth with fins. the one I got is about 12 inches x 12 inches and is about 2 inches thick, I mounted directly in the middle of the condenser, to get the max air flow through it, I can go on a fifthy mile trip, and feel the lines comming out the cooler and you can hold your hand on them with no problem.
Sam

09-23-2002, 03:22 PM	#1
Custom 68 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,930	?? for those with 700R4 tranny Allright I am thinking about the 700R4 upgrade. What did you do to yours to make it live before installing? I understand 88-89 were the best years to look for. I would like to be able to withstand 350-400 hp small block (just a dream). If I get a running one that feels ok what should be done? I would like for this to last but am also looking for the least expencive way to do that . Thanks in advance... I have a 400 turbo no but just something about that lower first gear and overdrive Oh yea what about the torque converter. Do you need or use a stall with the moderate hp engine? __________________ Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!" Last edited by Custom 68; 09-23-2002 at 03:57 PM.

09-23-2002, 03:28 PM	#2
Project1970 14.1 @ 96MPH Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 2,811	I bought my 700R4 pre-built with a shift kit (unknown which one) from www.phoenixhardparts.com. The tranny itself was built great and the price is good, but the people there aren't the brightest. I didn't worry too much about having an ultra-stout 700 since I'm only pushing 260-300hp right now. Regarding years of transmissions...yes, you want an '87 or newer, but you need to be careful as far as speedometer setups and wiring. A lot of the '87-ups were in computer controlled cars, but the year depends on the vehicle it was from; '87 Monte Carlos were electronic, '87 Camaros weren't... '90 Firebirds were electronic, '90 Camaros weren't, etc etc. All you need to convert the electronic style to the older style, though, is a new 4th gear pressure switch, the speedometer gears, and the speedometer sleeve. If you get it all new, the sleeve is by far the priciest part at nearly $60...try and pull it from a junkyard. __________________ Project1970 - LS1 Swap Complete!

09-23-2002, 03:54 PM	#3
DeepPurple Real Deep... Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: St. Louis Posts: 116	Jet Performance If you're really worried about horsepower you'll need to step up and either go to 3 gears (TH350 or 400) or to something ridiculous like the 4L80-E. But if you're only doing 400 hp a 700R4 will do Currently I have a Jet Performance 700R4/T700 in mine attached to a small block that makes somewhere near the range of horsepower you're wanting to. Bought mine from Jet Performance which makes IMHO a darn good transmission. Additionally the folks out there are very knowledgable and will custom build the transmission to take a lot more abuse than they say it will on their website, and they set the tranny up to work with older vehicles (meaning all the electronic stuff is gone or self contained and it will work with a cable speedometer). Only problem is that they're a bit on the expensive side, as you're looking at about $2K or more. Horsepower=$$$ __________________ 1970 GMC C10 (Deep Purple) 383/700-R4 Mass Modifications 1976 GMC K5 Jimmy (Big Blue) 400/TH350 Coming soon to a drive-in near you... We have done So Much with So Little for So Long.. We are now qualified to do Anything with Nothing.

09-23-2002, 04:13 PM	#4
1-PU70 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Bradenton, FL Posts: 1,036	I paid 200 for a take out from a 87 S10 Blazer with converter and TV cable. Here is what I did. I wouldnt bet my life on the facts but its what Ive been told. I took it to a trans shop to have it reseald . He told me to have the bushings changed too or the new seals would go bad. So I hade the seals and bushings changed. $60. They would also wire it to lock up in 4th and unlock when it drops to 3rd. Nice and simple. The shop told me it was nice and clean in side so it was a good bet that it was OK. The S10 comes with a 2000stall converter stock but the smallest servo. After driving for a while didnt like the way it shifted so I had a Corvett servo put in. $35 + $15 to install. Didnt improve the shifts that much. I then added a shift kit at same shop. $150 When the valve body was out they found the plate was NG and some springs were NG too.Replaced parts at no extra charge. Now it shifts great. So I have $460 in it and Im very happy. Oh yes I added a B&M lock up controll $150. It ties into the spedo cable and you pick the speed to lock. I have mine set at 60 to lock and when it drops to 50 it un locks. Im very happy with it. I would count the 150 for the lock up controll in the totall cost because it stays with the truck not the trans if you neen a new trans. Its behind a stock 402 and I tow. Here are two tips i would recomend. 1 Get the bigest trans cooler you could find. Heat is the bigest problem with auto trans. 2 you can adjust the TV cable yourself. Im from the old school. You dont need pressure gauges. I just foll0wed the directions in a Chilton manual. Worked fine. Good luck. __________________ 1970 CST/10 402,700R4,3:73 posi,AC,PS,PB,TLT,PW,Buckets with heaters

09-23-2002, 04:54 PM	#5
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	I took an 85 700R4 (I know 87 and up is better, but this was a freebee) had it rebuilt and upgraded using a non-locking converter, no switches, no electronics, (price $750) installed a B&W shift-improver kit, ($60) installed the correct speedo gears and sleeve, ( aprox $45 from the GM dealer) and that was several years and 50K ago and no complaints. I also tow my 22' camper with this truck. __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

09-23-2002, 05:11 PM	#6
Project1970 14.1 @ 96MPH Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 2,811	No offense to anyone; but I don't see why one would need one of those lockup kits. It's really not hard at all to wire it up so the tranny does it itself, and it's MUCH cheaper. All you're looking at as far as circuitry is a brake switch, a vacuum switch, a pressure switch, and a solenoid. Simply wire 12V to the normally-closed brake switch, then to the closed-at-high-vacuum (low throttle) switch, and then to the transmission. Inside, whether your pressure switch controls the 12V or the ground depends on whether your solenoid has 1 or 2 wires; if it has 2, it's easier to make the switch control the ground. This way, the circuit is only completed in 4th gear, when the brakes aren't applied, and when the engine is at high vacuum (low throttle), and the tranny locks. Lockup is very nice. __________________ Project1970 - LS1 Swap Complete!

09-23-2002, 05:56 PM	#7
sam's 72 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Pasadena, Texas, USA Posts: 1,005	I am not sure what year mine is, I bought it from a guy I work with, he had it built to stand up to 500hp. He had it built so that it goes into lock up hydrolicey. He put right at 1000 mile on it, then decided to go with a different 700r4, said his wife does not like the way it shift. It does shift hard, it is even got a firm shift going into over drive. NO WIRES TO HOOK UP AT ALL! I really like the way it acts in the truck. I am in the process of building a 383 with about 450 to 475 HP, when I get ready to put this engine in, I am going to change out the converter to a 2500 stahl. Right now it is behind a 305 stock. It works great. I paid $ 500.00 for it, after I had the tranny guy look at it. Sam __________________ 72 LWB chevy truck. Pasadena, Texas

09-23-2002, 06:03 PM	#8
sam's 72 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Pasadena, Texas, USA Posts: 1,005	I meant to tell you also, that be sure to have the TV cable adjusted RIGHT! Have a tranny guy or if you know how to do it your self, put a set of gauges on it so that it is adjusted right. If not it will not last, the TV cable control shift point and fluid pressure. I also advise to get the biggest tranny cooler you can find. They make one called tru cool, it is built like a miniture radator. It is not your basic tubes back and forth with fins. the one I got is about 12 inches x 12 inches and is about 2 inches thick, I mounted directly in the middle of the condenser, to get the max air flow through it, I can go on a fifthy mile trip, and feel the lines comming out the cooler and you can hold your hand on them with no problem. Sam __________________ 72 LWB chevy truck. Pasadena, Texas



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