NOT so EZ wiring

[VetteVet]

My advice to you was fairly generic because of the different varieties of wiring harnesses out there. It is based on what I've learned and my experience.

I see that you have done some of the things that I recommended and mostly what you have left to do is standard circuit wiring for your load items, and how you want to route the power to them. The way you do that is up to your preference and it helps to study how others have done their systems.

The fuse panel is necessary because all the circuits need to be protected to avoid damage of components and fires. It should be obvious as to what circuits and wires will go where in the fuse panel. If the EZ wiring directions do not specify what wires by gauge and color go where, then you should get familiar with the GM suburban harness and learn what they used. I see that the turn signal wiring does not follow the colors GM used, but the wire sizes seem to be correct. You should make a log of the colors you are using just for future reference.
As far as the sizes, i would not use a smaller gauge than recommended but a larger gauge is ok unless it is needed for a specific reason. A good example is the resistance wire for the alternator. The red power wires in the OEM factory circuits are 12 gauge but there is nothing wrong with going larger, especially if a larger alternator and more amp draw loading is in play.

[kev2809]

ya, some of the wires are off from factory. this kit is a little "too" universal, but the wires are all clearly marked. i was able to get the column wired up from digging around on different diagrams and adapter kits for these. now obviously i wont know 1 thousand percent until i test them...but they should be right.

but anyways, what makes this install a little more interesting is the fact im using an ls engine and not a stock small block...so (im assuming) a lot of these ez wire power wires under the hood either dont get used, or will run to something else to power.

if there is no coil, no hei, no choke..these should not be used, right?

im assuming the alternator is controlled by the pcm (its also wired in the stand alone ls harness), then the alternator power and exciter wire should also not be used?

which would only leave me solenoid power, and ignition switch power (from the ez wire truck harness)?

i appreciate all your help with getting this squared away..if you need any pictures i could post them. like i said, it makes things a little challenging using the ls motor

[kev2809]

bumpity bump

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by kev2809

ya, some of the wires are off from factory. this kit is a little "too" universal, but the wires are all clearly marked. i was able to get the column wired up from digging around on different diagrams and adapter kits for these. now obviously i wont know 1 thousand percent until i test them...but they should be right. This is true.

but anyways, what makes this install a little more interesting is the fact im using an ls engine and not a stock small block...so (im assuming) a lot of these ez wire power wires under the hood either don't get used, or will run to something else to power.

if there is no coil, no hei, no choke..these should not be used, right?
You can't use the oem wires for those functions because the PCM has to be used to control them.

im assuming the alternator is controlled by the pcm (its also wired in the stand alone ls harness), then the alternator power and exciter wire should also not be used?
I would use the wiring for the alternator (not PCM), because I think it is mor reliable than the controls in the PCM. You should post on the LS swap forum and get a better opinion. I would only use the PCM wiring for the engine controls IGN, fuel feed, and any sensor connections that you have to have for it to run. Possibly temperature gauge if you are keeping the Ls gauge. You will have to figure out how to wire the stock gauges with the extra wires I.E. temperature gauge and fuel quantity from the EZ wiring kit.

which would only leave me solenoid power, and ignition switch power (from the ez wire truck harness)? See above

i appreciate all your help with getting this squared away..if you need any pictures i could post them. like i said, it makes things a little challenging using the ls motor

Pictures are always good.

[VetteVet]

your post is the first one on the first page so you don't have to bump it.

[kev2809]

thank you. ill try there. didnt realize it was at the top

[LS short box]

I haven't used EZ Wire. I have used Painless a few times.
You can use the hei wire to power the LS ECM since it will have 12 volts in start and run.
The LS ECM will need a constant 12 volt wire.
I've used Speartech and Howell LS harnesses and both provide one wire/plug to the alternator.
You need to run a large gauge wire 12 volts to the stud on the back of the alternator. I run that wire from the center stud on the starter, around the front of the engine along the oil pan. I used rubber lined cable clamps using the oil pan bolts to hold it in place.
In regards to the unused wires I trim them back but leave enough so you can see the labeling on the wire. Make sure the exposed ends don't ground out on anything.
I use Auto Meter gauges for my LS swaps. They have worked well.

[kev2809]

my ls harness is a stock re worked one that i did following lt1swap.com.

so the coil wire from the ez harness can be wired directly to the 12 volt battery from the ls harness?

the stock engine harness already has a battery wire that runs to the large stud on the back of the alternator. its actually a fusible link that runs to the red junction box, then to the actual battery. then of course the actual alternator plug is already plugged in too (from the ls harness). (i posted a pic below of google image engine)

i used the stock cluster with the back circuit board removed...like this one
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=512751

[kev2809]

also ls short box...i made a thread in the ls section to try and get more specific help!

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=837069