1964 C10 fleet side swb

[Justin71105]

I got the brackets and speakers mounted, wiring ran to dash.

Next weekend going to do doors and install radio, then I can hear what these 6x9 sound like.

Need to find how to mount center speaker to suport the radio as well. Put it up in there and the rubber piece goes above ashtray fine. But the other tab has nothing to connect it in fire wall side.

I cut the dash speaker out of the bracket, going to cut a piece of mdf and trim to fit the mount then put some 4" speakers in it. A 6x9 fits the opening now but dont want to buy 2 more just to mount one.

https://imgur.com/a/BWBtU0l

https://imgur.com/WOIzf4k

[Justin71105]

Drivers door installed, new weather stripping is extremely tight again like the last set. Would have used old set but it had a tear just at the rail that runs inside door

Passenger side I should be able to reuse the weather stripping.

https://imgur.com/a/ijGqi5t

[Justin71105]

Have both doors mounted now, need another deiver side window regulator. The teeth on the LMC unit skipped on the first try to spin it. Need to find a better quality one or a good original one. Passenger side is original and no issues at all.

I got the factory dash speaker mount finished.

2 - 4" speakers in it and have it mounted, radio will be next weekend.


https://imgur.com/a/oYn8toj


Vintage air came in so will be installing that sometime during christmas time.

[bigmoe]

[QUOTE=Justin71105;9265564]Have both doors mounted now, need another driver side window regulator. The teeth on the LMC unit skipped on the first try to spin it. Need to find a better quality one or a good original one. Passenger side is original and no issues at all.

I had good luck with one from Classic Industries.

[Justin71105]

[quote=bigmoe;9270721]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

Have both doors mounted now, need another driver side window regulator. The teeth on the LMC unit skipped on the first try to spin it. Need to find a better quality one or a good original one. Passenger side is original and no issues at all.

I had good luck with one from Classic Industries.

Auto metal direct one I ordered was good as well. Figured the issue out but even when it was tough to roll up the amd one never slipped once.

[Justin71105]

Updated picture gallery link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...-P?usp=sharing



All My old pictures of all the work it took to even get it to this point.

Vintage air ready to go in when I get a wild hare to get out there and start on it now. Still need to pull engine harness out of firewall and re-route so I can move the ecm to passenger side floor somewhere.

[Justin71105]

I got my vintage air unit installed under the dash today.


Still a bunch to do but I started the install finally. I may drain radiator and install the condensor and all the hoses tomorrow.

[Justin71105]

A couple issues with the Vintage Air but they have taken care of them so far.

They sent the wrong control panel, it was for a vette. Got the new one in Friday and started install. Then found I was missing the main wiring harness which they're shipping.

Have the under dash unit put togethor and installed. I also assembled the condensor with drier.

Now waiting for heater hoses, 5/8-3/4 adapter and the wiring harness to start under hood install.

Ready to have some heat and defrost for these cold mornings.

Still need to pick up some antifreeze to do the under hood install. Going to pull radiator as install paperwork shows. May need to move my relay box down a bit to route hard lines along inner fender.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

A couple issues with the Vintage Air but they have taken care of them so far.

They sent the wrong control panel, it was for a vette. Got the new one in Friday and started install. Then found I was missing the main wiring harness which they're shipping.

Have the under dash unit put togethor and installed. I also assembled the condensor with drier.

Now waiting for heater hoses, 5/8-3/4 adapter and the wiring harness to start under hood install.

Ready to have some heat and defrost for these cold mornings.

Still need to pick up some antifreeze to do the under hood install. Going to pull radiator as install paperwork shows. May need to move my relay box down a bit to route hard lines along inner fender.

The logic behind this need?

[Justin71105]

The condensor mounts on engine side of radiator support. So it's sandwiched between radiator and core support.

Have to pull water pump bypass to run hoses anyway so I will be draining it.

So its either try to squeeze it in with radiator still connected, after I drain it. Or just pull radiator for easy access to bolt in condensor.

You could probably do it just squeezing it between radiator and support. May take longer fighting them hoses and trying to not ding the fins rather than just pulling it and sitting it to the side.

I also need to move my transmission cooler off radiator, and mounting it in front of condensor.

So will drain and remove radiator, pull trans cooler off and sit aside without disconnecting lines.

Attatch trans cooler in front of the condensor, bolt down condensor. Then drill hole for hard lines and re-install radiator.

Then also figure out the new LS compressor mount/tensioner/pulley. Run lines, pull vacuum, then it says to fill with coolant and let truck run awhile and circulate through new heater core before filling with freon.

Alot of work but I dont want to chance damaging my condensor, radiator or trans cooler fins if I can help it. Too cold to drive it without heat right now anyway.

[Justin71105]

Well broke my trans cooler fitting last week trying to clock an fitting while it was attatched to condensor. Should have left it alone I guess it wasn't too far off.

Got my new one yesterday and installed without damage. Should be able to do wiring tomorrow and then its just duct routing, mount vents, clock compressor fitting and mark hoses to cut/crimp.

Install new upper rad hose, fill and burp coolant once wirings done tomorrow.

Started it toncheck belt alignement. No squeals or weird sounds out of that side.

Need cruise control and to move brake pedal/gas pedal about 2" further back still.

[Justin71105]

A/c hoses crimped, will install this weekend and vacuum down to check leaks. Ahould be warm enough to fill Sunday.

[SCOTI]

Ready for Spring cruising!

[Justin71105]

A/C and heat working really good.

Installed a hitch yesterday and some 6.5 inch speakers put in.

Put about 1400 miles on it since transmission went in. Installed new vent in rear end and running some rislone in oil to try and clean up any buildup.

Thinking of making a 1800 mile trip to pick up a motorcycle from a buddy in it this spring. Have a cruise control stalk I need to wire the relays for and install. Will need it for the drive this spring.

https://imgur.com/a/4umBv44

[Justin71105]

Bought a larger air compressor for the body work I am looking to do this spring.

I am going to bring it back down to bare metal, spray with epoxy primer. Skim everything with a thin layer of filler and sand entire truck until it looks decent.

Then move on to a single stage paint, still debating colors. White, Royal Blue, Dark Green or something in between. Really like the dark greens I've looked at and the Royal Blues.

[SCOTI]

Lighter colors are more 'forgiving' for those that aren't paint-pro's.

[Justin71105]

I da sanded the whole truck to knock down the brush job. I actually like the look of the flat paint better than the gloss and no brush strokes lol.

I had some boiled linseed oil on the shelf so wiped it down and really like the light sheen it gives.

So I painted the doors with the paint I had left over and will sand down the doors to match the rest. Then coat with some of that oil to see how it looks overall.

If I like it just going to spray with some oil based satin clear if I can find it. Or keep wiping down with oil every few months.

2300 miles on it so far, still havent installed cruise stalk or wiring but everything else has been doing well.

https://imgur.com/cuVf0RF
https://imgur.com/wxqTca7
https://imgur.com/xlEY7ta
https://imgur.com/IhdWNoH

[SCOTI]

Looking good!

[Justin71105]

So the only places on my truck that still have original paint are hood, cab and tailgate.

New doors/fenders and took bedsides to bare metal for metal repairs.

I sanded down to original best I could and hit bare metal in some spots.

I found some blueish colors in a few spots on each panel between cream and brown primer.

So I found something close and am going to fill in the bare metal. Did some of the tailgate today and it it looks cool to me.

Going to tryout some Griots Garage wipe on clear on it as well later this summer.

This is under stock paint in a few spots.

https://imgur.com/fSgjd01

And this is what I did to tailgate.

https://imgur.com/a/rwWJNVA

[Justin71105]

On the ledge about doing a cam in my truck now that Ive got some miles on it.

Was recommended a btr stage 2 truck cam. Then would aldo do springs, push rods and some other items while doing it. Like timing chain, front main seal, oil pump etc...

Wanting a little lope and some added hp/trq.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Justin71105

On the ledge about doing a cam in my truck now that Ive got some miles on it.

Was recommended a btr stage 2 truck cam. Then would aldo do springs, push rods and some other items while doing it. Like timing chain, front main seal, oil pump etc...

Wanting a little lope and some added hp/trq.

I believe that's what my buddy went w/for the 5.3 in my old '90rcsb OBS. He hasn't gotten it running yet but it seemed like a good choice.

[Justin71105]

3 hour round trip yesterday, stopped for lunch and got a pic. Never missed a beat. Need to get this cruise control installed though.

Removed my column spacers today and moved column back to stock position. I did have it push into dash about 2" for some extra room. But lost about 50lbs since then and didnt need that anymore.

When I first installed column though I cut the colapsible shaft down. With moving the column back out im about 2" short from reaching u joint.

So I ordered another one, wont trim it this time. Luckily they arent super expensive, sure one of my buddies can use the one I am pulling off.

https://imgur.com/a/0A2ztyY

[Justin71105]

Was checking pistoms through spark plug holes with a borescope camera. Wanted to make sure the pistons and cyl walls look good before setting up cam job.

I'll be danged if 2 spark plug ends pulled off on me. Got a new set on the way. Gave up checking pistons until this weekend. Cyl 1,2,3 all look good, tiny bit of oil on cyl 1 piston. All of those were near tdc so didnt get to see cyl walls.

Will bar it over this weekend to check them all.

Not expecting to find anything bad but want to be sure. May also do a compression check on them all.

It doesnt smoke or miss or anything but better safe than sorry before spending the cash on the work.

[Justin71105]

Priced out everything I can think of for the cam swap, came about to just over $1500 not including fluids. Priced it all out using mostly btr parts.

Cam kit with springs, seals and pushrods
Lifters, trays, bolts - (Delphi or Morel)
High volume oil pump - (Chevy performance)
Rocker trunnion kit with bolts
Timing chain set
Front main seal
Cam retainer plate
Trunnion upgrade kit
Head bolts - (Earls)
Gasket kits

Waiting to hear back a parts/labor cost to see if I am going to order and do it myself this winter or drop it off as soon as they have an opening.

[Justin71105]

Got new plug wires on and I'm betting the first set had an issue from new.

Have had a ticking for awhile I chalked up to the headers and exhaust installed.

New wires and the tick is gone, guessing theybwere arcing on headers.

New steering shaft put in as well. Going to adjust brake pedal and brake switch this weekend. As well as the rear shoes and get e brake holding better. Since I remived the spacers from the column bracket its not moving shoes out enough now.

Got rough estimate for the cam work. Parts are around 2k for everything and then another 1500 for labor/tune.


Couple of pictures frim earlier this month.

https://imgur.com/a/92AADR3