Hydroboost on a 58 -59 3100

[dwcsr]

I decided to use a hydro-boost brake system after seeing one of the other posters here put one on a later model. I researched the parts and found a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 w/4 wheel disc had hydro-boot. This setup is from the 2001 Silverado with four wheel disc so if you are going to do this conversion with rear drums you need to get the master for rear drums.

The booster unit is an A1-Cardone # 52-7359 this comes with a diagram to connect the hoses correctly.
Brake Master Cylinder is Raybestos # MC390542 it’s new and comes complete with reservoir and cap Don’t get the MC390541 its for a vacuum booster. Don’t ask me the difference I didn’t see it but Raybestos says the 542 is the one.

You will need to get the push rod, pushrod spring and the spring retainer that goes between the master and the booster it does not come with a rebuilt unit. I did get a complete unit from a junk yard with master for $75.00.
The other items are Hose kit for the P/S lines going to the booster unit and P/S unit. Pump to booster hose you can use if you don't want the expense of AN type fittings and lines is an Edelman 92082 and some Russell P/S fittings -6 AN x M16x1.5 O ring fitting for the pressure out side of the booster to the rack. The M18x1.5 was for the pressure in side of the booster.

I ended up using some Aeroquip AN -6 to metric adapters M18x1.5 and 2 M16x1.5 with O rings which were made of steel rather than aluminum the Aeroquip fittings also had a taper on the end to help keep the O ring in place which the Russell ones didn't. This may not be a problem for some but the O ring on the Russell kept getting stuck in the bore or falling out completely when I was test fitting all this. The advantage to the Russell was half the cost of Aeroquip. I also use -6 AN fittings and hose to plumb the pressure side of the install.

We also need a Heidt’s adjustable P/S valve PS-114 so we can have full pressure to the booster but reduced pressure to the rack. The 86 TBird rack uses 600-800 psi. If we run full 1500 - 2000 psi from the GM pump to the Ford rack it will eventually blow out the seals and leak it would also be very touchy at higher speeds. So we put the Valve in the lines to reroute some of the pressure back to the return side of the pump.

Brake proportioning valve for 4 wheel discs or an adjustable. I used a Wilwood adjustable valve with an LBS (Lock Resistant Brake) valve from Larsen Racing it helps keep the fat tires on the back from locking up and spinning you around on wet or damp pavement. Metric nuts M10x1.5 to bolt on the master cylinder and some fender washers to bolt it to the firewall with.
You will need some lengths of brake line. I used copper/nickel line that is DOT approved and very easy to work with, you honestly can’t screw up a flare with this stuff unless you forget to put the nut on first. It flares very well, it bends nicely and you can give it a polish to a golden color. www.fedhillusa.com is the US supplier. It is a little more expensive but the advantages make up for it the cost

At the same time I’m doing the booster I am also fabing a brake pedal because I’m to cheap to buy the one at classic performance so I will include the How-to on that as well.

Here is the boost unit and as you can see the mounting plate is heavy enough to use without modifying it.