Orange peel

[tinman_local2]

I tried posting in the paint and body section but didn't get much action. So I'll ask here.
Getting close to painting my k20. I've read a lot about how to avoid orange peel, but no real fixes or what exactly causes it. I've heard gun settings, travel speed, and temperature are all causes. My question is, if you get orange peel what do you change? Is it too high pressure, too much volume, too low pressure, travel speed too slow or fast. I've sprayed some single stage paints before with little problems. I've never done BC/CC. Just trying to avoid alot of cutting and buffing. Any tips from the pros would be appreciated.

[Lee H]

Get 3-5 test panels. Spray one, change settings if needed, repeat. Once you have a good pattern paint the truck. You can’t totally avoid issues but you can minimize them with a few test panels. Good luck.

[tinman_local2]

Originally Posted by Lee H

Get 3-5 test panels. Spray one, change settings if needed, repeat. Once you have a good pattern paint the truck. You can’t totally avoid issues but you can minimize them with a few test panels. Good luck.

If it orange peels, which settings should I change. I'm curious what is the cause? Too much pressure, not enough?

[Lee H]

While an amateur at painting I think it’s not enough material being applied. Slow down or increase flow. There are so many variables it’s hard to say. I’m sure the pro’s have it down pat, but even they have to cut and buff.

[HotWheelsFan]

Far from a painter and not a pro at painting. I have painted though...

I can confirm that you have an idea of cautions (as you listed). In my experience with painting is preparation, clean surface, no oils or water. Patience is very important.

As an experienced technician I can say, you learn from performing the work itself. Test panels gives you an idea how your work might/would turn out. If things go well, dive deeper and paint more. If not, figure out what problems you may need to work on. Gives a great base point.

One thing I do know... The more time you put into the job before the painting, the nice the result will be.

I have seen great youtube, and other vids online. I have watched "Tetz Paintucation" and learned quite a bit.

I painted my truck in single stage and 10 years later still happy with my results. My mistakes were running low on paint, a bit of a rush in some areas, and not painting with consistent conditions.


I have pics in my profile areas to show the disassembly I did with my truck.


Bob

[rockyrivermark]

I’ve restored a handful of cars/trucks and do my own painting.
A small amount of orange peel is pretty much unavoidable.
Even though high end shops on tv cut and buff their paint to get it slick to get rid of orange peel
I just sprayed a ‘67 cougar last week I’m wrapping up .
Wet sand with
2000
3000 trizact
5000 trizact
8000 trizact
Then use 3m perfect it 3 step buffing process
Sounds like a lot but it goes pretty quick.
Sand 48 hours after spraying so it doesn’t get too hard to sand.
Mark

[Lee H]

I’m a fan of the 3M products and a dewalt machine buffer. More about moving the clear vs removing it. On a side note, my last job, it took almost a year before I could not mark the paint with my finger nail.

[Stover93]

There’s a lot of good info here.
http://autobodystore.com/forum/forum...ral-Discussion

[HO455]

Practice practice practice, Automotive painting involves good muscle memory. It seems pretty straightforward, but continuously making accurate, smooth, flowing moves for an hour takes practice.
Even with modern vehicles that have been painted by robots you see orange peel occasionally in the color coats.
And like everything how you have to decide how many imperfections are acceptable.

[Jason Banks]

Like Lee said above, you should just plan on cut an buff. There will always be some orange peel.

I have had good luck with painting help on the SPI forums. http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php

I painted my C10 last November with the SPI Universal Clear. 4 coats of clear. They say it never really gets hard to sand. I actually just started sanding some runs, trash, and orange peel this April and it sands very easy. I was scared it would be super difficult, but its fine.

The gun you are spraying clear with makes a huge difference too. I used a separate clear gun. This one - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3NEEDA/ Iwata LPH400-144LV mainly because the SPI forum had very clear instructions on how to best set up the gun for their clear.

I painted the whole truck in pieces. Some things came out glass smooth and no trash and others came out with some defects. I didn't sweat it, because I knew I would cut and buff.

Mark detailed his cut and buff procedure above. I'm doing slightly different. Mainly not using the 5000 between the 3000 and 8000. Following what they say in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qb8XF4RLbhE

I have been hitting the runs with 1000 wet to knock them down first and then I have been using 1500 finishing film dry, then the 3000 and 8000 then the 1 step finishing material with the purple pad. Works great.

I had a lot of runs on the inside of the bed on 1 side. I have a wood bed floor and painted the bed assembled, front panel and bed sides with rear cross rail. It was a ton of spraying in one go since it was the inside and outside of the bed in one go. On my very first coat of clear, I was trying to get clear up underneath the bed rail on one side and it caused me to screw up. I ended up with runs basically all the way down. Didn't make that mistake on the other side and it came out great.

[sick472]

I am the King of Orange Peel. I have not figured out how to avoid it, but have mastered getting it pretty consistent throughout the paint job...lol. I think it has a lot to do with my tendency to lay it on too thick. I am talking about single stage paints, btw. It does tend to be a bit more peel'ish on vertical surfaces. My next paint job will be a base-coat-clear-coat and I expect to lay it on thick, block sand the peel out and then try my best to lay the clear on without the peel. My arms hurt thinking about it!

[CC69Rat]

Slow your reducer down a little bit. It will allow the material to lay out vs. Drying too quickly.

I'm no pro, but the longer it can stay wet (within reason of course) it will allow it to flow out and level before it kicks. Shoot a small test panel about 10 deg colder than ambient temps and you'll see a difference.

[72c20customcamper]

Best way to avoid orange peel is to buy a good spray gun . It’s all about atomization of the paint . The finer the less orange peel . Laying on the paint heavy isn’t a good idea it can lead to solvent popping. To slow of a reduced and runs become a problem . I use a Devilbiss teckna pro lite, not cheap but it lays down paint beautifully this is single stage urethane.

[firedemon]

the slowest reducer you can use without running it .the longer it stays wet the more time it has to flow out . more thin coats vs less thick coats , and test it vertically rather than laying down . an old timer told me think of it like this , your shooting a bunch of round balls at a flat surface if theyre too wet they will be slippery and slide right down the surface . too dry and they stick and pile up like a bunch of kickballs in one of those square ball cages at wallmart . bumpy ass surface . you want to be medium right in the middle those balls hit stick and start melting together like rain in a mud puddle . a few moments after it stops raining its smooth as glass . beginning painters dont usually like slow reducer because its real easy to run so try medium and dont be afraid to add a little extra

[tinman_local2]

Thanks for all the replies. I've learned a bit on painting. Sounds like I need to try some test panels and just see what happens.

[lil hoodlum]

I'm a novice at painting too, but I have painted my truck several times. Seems like I get more orange peel than other times, seems like the thicker you put it on, the more orange peel happens. I don't sweat it too much as I kind of enjoy the cutting and buffing part.