The English are coming! Or..another C10 in the Motherland.

[jmarkha1]

I hear you - the"original " plan was patina truck with immaculate interior and mechanicals. that way I don't have to worry about actually using it as a truck or parking it up and not worrying.
Will see what happens once the cab is done.

I also need to start a build thread to get some much needed enthusiasm :-)

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Having built cars with £5-10K paint jobs I won't be doing that again! Woody will stay with his original battle scared paint, I do however like to have a smart engine bay so will blast the fire wall once Grizz has finished with my blaster.

The challenge comes with where do you stop... IF I paint the interior then do I blast it. If I am going to blast it do I take the windows out. If I take the windows out.... and so the snowball grows....

Fully expecting to change out some lifters and trays once I have the engine fired up but, hopefully I can put that off until I have a few miles under my belt. PLUS! I have the damn Christmas tree to pick up in Woody that has now become pretty much the only thing my daughter talks about....

Will wonder over and have a look at your build.

Thanks!

P.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by jmarkha1

I hear you - the"original " plan was patina truck with immaculate interior and mechanicals. that way I don't have to worry about actually using it as a truck or parking it up and not worrying.
Will see what happens once the cab is done.

I also need to start a build thread to get some much needed enthusiasm :-)

Start a build thread!! It is great to watch others build theirs and then learn from others also, get great input and just be part of the fun!
Paul has done a great job so far on this build and it is awesome to watch is as he does it.

[Paul Y]

Just had a quick search and your truck looks very nice! Like the yellow.

I could be tempted to convert to a BBW at some point but... Snowball....

Start the build thread - it is great just to document your progress plus there is an awful lot of shared knowledge on here that makes the build process that much easier.

P.

[Paul Y]

very quick update and a question to those who are following along.

So This....



Tells me two things.

1. The lowest part of Woody is going to be the crossmember so my measuring was pretty much spot on with the CTS-V sump

2. Mr. Grinder will be making a further visit to Mrs Spring.

But that is something that can be fixed...later...

Why the engine test fit?

Exactly that, to test the fit of the TBSS manifolds - a little trim will be required on the drinkers side.





Captains side is fine.



Had to do a little 'light' clearancing on the engine mounts to get it to all sit nicely but other than that really pleased with the mounting kit. Good news is that once the cab is back on I can finalise the position of the engine, I want to get it as far back and as low down as possible. Between the adapter plates and the adjustment in the stands there is lots of room for activities....

Other reason for fitting the engine was to check clearance for the turbo return.

I have been procrastinating on this far more than usual, there is a part of me that doesn't want to start drilling holes in the sump but also another part of me that realises if I don't then the Choo Choo will probably not materialise.

With that being said I am actually really pleased I decided to wait and test it as where I originally planned on putting the return would have meant getting the line onto it would have been a real pain.

Therefore this is where I have decided to drill a hole.



That brings you up today on todays attempts. Doesn't look like much but had to extract the crane from the darkest corner of the garage, make an engine hook and keep an ear out for if/when the Spa GP was going to start.

Thats my excuse and I am sticking to it.

Right. For this that have got this far you might remember that I had a question.

The LS is not the most cosmetically appealing engine ever created, and I am not one for building covers, but I would like to apply a little lipstick to the pig. Question is, what?

Here are the current choices, please feel free to make your own suggestions.

1. Paint the block Chevy Orange and wrinkle red the valve covers. Blast and lacquer the aluminium engine parts.

2. Paint the engine Black and wrinkle black the valve covers. Blast and lacquer the aluminium engine parts.

3. Leave it as it is - no amount of lipstick is going to get this pig a date.

Until the next time... Onwards!

P.

[jmarkha1]

for what its worth I would:

paint the block chevy orange.
blast and laq ally stuff
fit SBC covers - black with polished fins.

plus for bonus points - hide those coils somewhere...

OR just leave it as is...


Fit SBC early valve covers on adapters.
Hide those coils and

Originally Posted by Paul Y

very quick update and a question to those who are following along.

So This....



Tells me two things.

1. The lowest part of Woody is going to be the crossmember so my measuring was pretty much spot on with the CTS-V sump

2. Mr. Grinder will be making a further visit to Mrs Spring.

But that is something that can be fixed...later...

Why the engine test fit?

Exactly that, to test the fit of the TBSS manifolds - a little trim will be required on the drinkers side.





Captains side is fine.



Had to do a little 'light' clearancing on the engine mounts to get it to all sit nicely but other than that really pleased with the mounting kit. Good news is that once the cab is back on I can finalise the position of the engine, I want to get it as far back and as low down as possible. Between the adapter plates and the adjustment in the stands there is lots of room for activities....

Other reason for fitting the engine was to check clearance for the turbo return.

I have been procrastinating on this far more than usual, there is a part of me that doesn't want to start drilling holes in the sump but also another part of me that realises if I don't then the Choo Choo will probably not materialise.

With that being said I am actually really pleased I decided to wait and test it as where I originally planned on putting the return would have meant getting the line onto it would have been a real pain.

Therefore this is where I have decided to drill a hole.



That brings you up today on todays attempts. Doesn't look like much but had to extract the crane from the darkest corner of the garage, make an engine hook and keep an ear out for if/when the Spa GP was going to start.

Thats my excuse and I am sticking to it.

Right. For this that have got this far you might remember that I had a question.

The LS is not the most cosmetically appealing engine ever created, and I am not one for building covers, but I would like to apply a little lipstick to the pig. Question is, what?

Here are the current choices, please feel free to make your own suggestions.

1. Paint the block Chevy Orange and wrinkle red the valve covers. Blast and lacquer the aluminium engine parts.

2. Paint the engine Black and wrinkle black the valve covers. Blast and lacquer the aluminium engine parts.

3. Leave it as it is - no amount of lipstick is going to get this pig a date.

Until the next time... Onwards!

P.

[SkinnyG]

Don't Mr. Grinder the Mr. Springs until the rest of Mr. Weight is sitting on them.

I welded the turbo drain to the pan, which warped the pan and required some re-surfacing. If I were to do it again, I'd probably just thread the pan and maybe put a nut on the backside to clamp it all together. Or lots of silicone or Permatex thread sealer.

[Paul Y]

I had arranged for pal who can weld aluminium to put the drain in but, after speaking to another pal who I get my fixings from, have decided to use a bulkhead fitting with some special washers he gave me.

Plan is to pull the engine again tomorrow, drill the hole and have it all back in before lunch time. If that goes according to plan then going to see if I can get it to spin over ahead of plumbing in the remaining fuel lines.

Mrs Spring is safe for the foreseeable future Skinny, but she knows her days are numbered....

P.

[Paul Y]

Warning! Lots of pictures of not a lot.

I finally put on my big girl pants and decided to drill holes to fit this.



One small problem.



So... after a lot of measuring, re measuring sitting on the milk crate of inspiration I finally did drilling.



and then some cutting.



and then some fitting with the super washers that Mark gave me to stop leakage.



Yup, that works. Misses the oil pick up and is significantly above the level of the oil. Phew.

Next job was to finally fit the sump for hopefully the last time until Choo Choo time. This is my first LS, previously had lots of small blocks and big blocks and I can already see the appeal. Things like reusable gaskets is such a nice change from the fit once, scrape off and buy another that has been my previous engine experience.

A little dab of red sealer on the joints and then fit for the final time.



With the engine buttoned up it was time to commence operation "Lipstick on Pig". Stripped off the exhaust manifolds starter motor etc block off the exhaust ports blah blah blah and get down to a little cleaning.

Before



After.



Removal of the rocker covers revealed more to support the low mileage and regular oil changes.



One side done. Actually looks OK.

Before



After




NEXT! Off with the inlet to give the underside a bit of a clean.

Not too much evidence of rodents!



The inlet and coil pack actually cleaned up quite nicely.



Annnndddd here it is all buttoned up. I will clean up the front accessories when I put the new cam in but for now... that will do Donkey....



Oh, you know I said that my lb-in torque wrench was the most useless tool in my box? I take it back. Everything on an LS, well apart from the big stuff, is in lb-in.

I did warn you there were a whole load of pictures...

Until the next time.

Onwards!

P.

[88Stanger]

Looking good sir!!!!

I just posted a note on the Wiring to another thread related to the harness and options. Not sure what route you are going, just listed it there for all.

It will be so much fun!!! I need to get more on mine....

[Paul Y]

Thanks Jeff,, saw that.

My engine came with a Speartech harness and tune hence why I am just going to throw it in and run it as is rather than put in a cam etc.

I have looked at the TunerPro software, which is free, to tune the LS but, I am leaning more and more towards to the Terminator X as I can probably get half of the money back by selling the loom and computer I have. PLUS! I have looked over a friends shoulder when he has been tuning via the GameBoy and it is just about my level - even considering a lifetime in IT....

But! First things first, just going to fire it up as is - hopefully this week dependant on if the final hoses come in.

Stay tuned. I feel an epic fail incoming....

P.

[88Stanger]

A few things to know that i found, when i first started my 5.3:
1.) At first i had 0 oil pressure. I learned that you must "pre-prime" the oil pump. There are a few ways to do this, i bought a drill operated pump, adapter that mounts to the front of the motor and one that mounts just behind the oil filter - this one is for reading the oil pressure.
2.) Due to my cam and such, i could not get any vacuum to run my power brakes and had to get a Hydro-Boost system.

Just a few thoughts.....

[Paul Y]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

A few things to know that i found, when i first started my 5.3:
1.) At first i had 0 oil pressure. I learned that you must "pre-prime" the oil pump. There are a few ways to do this, i bought a drill operated pump, adapter that mounts to the front of the motor and one that mounts just behind the oil filter - this one is for reading the oil pressure.
2.) Due to my cam and such, i could not get any vacuum to run my power brakes and had to get a Hydro-Boost system.

Just a few thoughts.....

Thanks Jeff,

I have knocked up an oil primer using a weed sprayer, a few old bits of pipe and a connector or two after seeing a number of YouTube videos exiling how to do it.

I could just take the plugs out and wind the engine over on the starter but as it has been without oil for the past 5 or 6 years -PLUS! whilst LS's might be given away with your breakfast cereal in the USA, over in the MotherLand they are a bit few and far between so cheap insurance.

Cam is a boggo standard at the moment and I have manual brakes so vacuum is not an issue. Yet!

Always appreciate your comments.

P.

[Paul Y]

In the final push to get Woody's engine fired up, even if it is just for 30 seconds or so, today was the day I had set aside to fit the fuel pump and test the fuel lines for leaks ahead of 'turning the key' tomorrow.

First things first, let's set up a beauty shot.



What we have here Ladies and Gentlemen is a Chevy Blazer fuel...basket?... and a Walbro 450 fuel pump, good enough for more than my planned 500whp.

First challenge.



Bumhats. Not the slot A in tab B assembly I was hoping for...

Never mind, I have a set of those de pinning keys I purchased on a whim several years ago so this should be an easy job, right?

Wrong.

Lets just say that I eventually got the pins out but it was in no way thanks to the miracle of the de pinning keys... Grrrr.

Anyway, eventually ended up with...



Which I 'skilfully' (ahem) attached to the plug wiring that came with the pump.

Aaaannnnnnndddd this is where it all went a bit Pete Tong.



See the blue clip that I have carefully circled in red. Yes that one on the left. Well, its job is to hold the wires in place to stop them falling out - in conjunction with the hateful pins already mentioned.

Well, as I went to re insert it into the plug it decided it had had enough of my nonsense and shot off like one of Elon's rockets at a trajectory across the garage, never to be seen again. I spent 2 hours searching for it until I was at thermo nuclear levels of annoyance - for those that know me I don't get annoyed so lets just say the best thing I could do was to close the garage doors and retreat to watch some trash TV.

Question for those of you have more experience than me on such things, can I 'Just" fill the connector up with silicon to hold the wires in place instead of the clip? Will it be affected by the fuel?

If anybody has any ideas or advice I would appreciate it.

As my old boss used to tell me 'Hope is not a Strategy' but I am hoping I will go out there again tomorrow and find the hateful blue clip sitting on the bench - or one of you bright sparks comes up with a solution.

So, until tomorrow.

Onwards!

P.

[Paul Y]

Apparently hope is a strategy.



Upon opening the garage door and wondering over to my 'clean' workbench I decided to have a further tidy up and TA DAAA! the missing blue clip appeared, as if by magic sitting on top of my band saw.... Grrrr....

I could have wired the pump directly to the pins to reduce the amount of connectors but, if I find myself stranded at the side of the road with a failed pump, it is going to be easier to unplug and replug rather than have to un pin and re pin. Notice the multimeter above, I did do all sorts of things that I really don't understand but it proved the wiring is good. Phew.

NEXT!

Time to fit the pump in the carrier, think I might need to do a little clearancing.



Thats better.



Aaannnnddd...



Assembled.

Not got a picture but measured to the bottom of the tank and to the bottom of the sock and there is about a 1/4 clearance. Perfect.

Last part of the fuel system is the regulator, feed and return lines.



Will end up using bulkhead fittings through the inner wing once everything is back together but for the moment this will do to test and get the engine started.

Talking of which...

Oil filters. This may come across as a mini rant but bear with me.

For those keeping score I changed the sump over to a CTS-V from the truck one originally fitted, which meant I had to get a metric oil filter.

Call the usual suspects to see if they have a Wix filter in stock, my preferred brand, and yes they do. Huzzah!

That will be £16.40.

Plus VAT.

Plus shipping.

AT £9.20!!!!!

Now I know we all need to make a profit to live on but £30.72 for an oil filter?

Ended up getting a K&N one directly from K&N for £13 delivered.



Good enough for Nascar so good enough for me.

Next!

Unlike the good old small block the oil pump can not be spun over with a drill on the LS as it is driven from the crank.

Under normal circumstances I would just crank it over until the oil pressure came up and then connect the coils and...VROOM... but Woody's new heart has been without oil for the past 6 years so decided to whip together a pre lube tool, just in case....



Heath Robinson would be proud...

So what is this wonderful contraction then?

A weed sprayer from Screwfix, a few connectors and a bit of hose plus an AN fitting and some hose clamps. Oh yes. and a compressor.





No it is not pretty, Yes it worked.





In theory all that's left to do is to put some super unleaded in the tank, run the pump to make sure there are no leaks. Plug in the harness, connect the computer. Add a battery and...turn the key



Oh, and fit the exhaust manifold.

Start crossing your fingers now, tomorrow is going to be epic.

Only time will tell if it is glorious success or epic fail....

Until tomorrow.

Onwards!

P.

[jmarkha1]

Ah - looks like you’re all set Paul - that pre- oiling setup looks very interesting- I’ll have to get the list of fittings you needed and try to replicate - have a good Saturday fire up 👍

[SkinnyG]

I have the same fuel pressure regulator. Where are you mounting yours?

[Grizz1963]

Excellent job mate.

Looking forward to the start up video.

[Paul Y]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

I have the same fuel pressure regulator. Where are you mounting yours?

Undecided as yet Skinny until I get the body and front end back on.

Could fit it on the inner wing with a couple of bulkhead fittings but will have to be mindful of the Turboooooo placement and exhaust routing.

Obvious place is on the bulkhead but the heater box makes that a challenge.

In hindsight - a wonderful thing - I would probably run the fuel lines up the drivers side but too late now!

What are you thinking of?

P.

[SkinnyG]

I have mine on the firewall (bulkhead?) right behind the intake manifold. Fuel feed and return coming up driver's side (er, left side), and kind of up the tunnel to the regulator to avoid exhaust heat (using braided teflon lines to be E85 friendly, though zero E85 stations anywhere near me).

I put a couple Nutserts in the firewall to mount the reg. I'm using factory heat, and an under-dash AC unit, so there was lots of room in mine.

[Paul Y]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

I have mine on the firewall (bulkhead?) right behind the intake manifold. Fuel feed and return coming up driver's side (er, left side), and kind of up the tunnel to the regulator to avoid exhaust heat (using braided teflon lines to be E85 friendly, though zero E85 stations anywhere near me).

I put a couple Nutserts in the firewall to mount the reg. I'm using factory heat, and an under-dash AC unit, so there was lots of room in mine.

I should have come up on the drivers side but thought I was making life easier for myself with the routing etc by coming top on the passenger side. WRONG!

Mine is all ethanol compatible - there is a big Hoo Haa going on here at the moment as regular petrol now contains 10% ethanol since September 1st - using braided and aluminium hard line.

It is what it is. If I have a problem down the line will wrap the lines, think I will be OK as there is a big gap between the fuel and exhaust plus the brace provides an addition level of protection. Time will tell.

Anyway. On to todays adventure.

Stay tuned, coming up right after this commercial break....

P.

[Paul Y]

I didn't get as much time in the garage as I wanted today as #4 child is off to Uni next week which meant spending money on...things... you know fairy lights, a wall covering, pink ferns. The important stuff.

Once that task was completed and I had put her and #1 son on the train to go to London to see #2 son -its his birthday on Tuesday - I finally had 2 hours in the garage before having a date night with the wonderful Lady P, I am currently writing this whilst she is getting ready so an easy hour or so left....

Plan today was.

1. Wire up the engine and make sure that everything worked

2. Make sure it cranked over

3. Test the fuel lines.

4. Vroom Vroom.

This is what I started with.



Long time listeners will know that I HATE WIRING so after 30 minutes spreading everything out across the drive to make sure I had a little idea of what went where I proceeded to plug everything in.

Actually quite easy once you get your head around it.



The wiring harness is definitely not a thing of beauty.

Once that was all in place I bolted the various electric bits to a board just to stop it all getting caught up in the flex plate and exhausts.



Get me. I even made a switch to turn the ECU...



Fact Tree....

I had previously bought myself a Lone Wolf 3000 to make the cranking easier. Purchased from my local motor factor the guy serving me said it had been there since he had started working there, I would guess that would be at least 20 years old then....



There will now be a lack of pictures as I spent the next 90 minutes trying to work out why, when I switched this ON...



...Nothing happened.

(In case anybody is using this as reference the wire connected to this is the switched live. - you must be really desperate but you never know...)

Tested across the fuse box, scratched my head and finally sat on the milk crate of contemplation to seek cosmic guidance.

Which is when I noticed that the other side of the switch was not connected to power.....


Mmmmm....

Anyway, quick connection made and now when you push the throttle pedal, this happens.



Great Success!

Rapidly running out of time I threw 4 gallons of Shell finest super unleaded in the tank, connected the pump to a separate battery and it all wired into life.

Rapidly followed by me pulling wires off the battery as I was showered by fuel from the regulator.



It is absolutely weeing it out of the join between the top and bottom. Quick internet search shows this is quite common so take it apart, clean it out and out it back together. Still made me jump!

Skinny I will let you know wha the results of tomorrows Post Mortem are so you don't get the 4 star shower.

Good news is, in the few seconds that the pump was building pressure my pipes didn't leak.

Tick another thing half of the list then Paul.

Not much time left so hooked up the Lone Wolf 3000 to the starter as I wanted to get the engine to turn over so, tomorrow, I can fix he regulator, put the plugs in and see if it will go Vroom Vroom.

But... no starter motor action.

Tested the Lone Wolf 3000. That works.

Have 13V to the starter.

Ok

But no spinny spinny.

Does anybody know if I need the switched live to be connected to a..live?

Seems a bit odd that it wouldn't turn over but hopefully it is something simple - if you know let me know.

So, with a modicum of success I bid you goodnight as Lady P is standing behind me indicating that she requires a G & T before dinner.

Onwards!!

P.

[SkinnyG]

Neutral safety switch?

[Paul Y]

Quick rewind then.

When I left you yesterday this was spraying fuel everywhere.



Quick disassemble revealed numerous bits of swarf from the machining process were still in the body meaning that the diaphragm was not seating properly. Grrrr....





Skinny might be worth a quick inspection before you put fuel through your one

With that all safely buttoned up a quick test revealed that it was indeed fixed and we were ready to go. Well once I had worked out why it wouldn't turn over.

This turned out to be my own stupidity as I had the Lone Wolf 3000 connected to earth rather than live, quick change around and we had the engine turning over, Very slowly. Even with the plugs out.

Oh Bumhats.

Images of me running the bearings dry had me re priming the engine with another 3 litres of oil. Lets try that again then shall we. Nope still turns over slowly. Now beginning to panic. Lets check the battery voltage then.

13.8 volts.

Now really panicking.

Wonder what the voltage is whilst cranking...

7.3 Volts. HUZZAH!!!!!!

Quick swop over to another battery and we now wizz over at a very respectable rate.

Ok, plugs in and this on stand by.



Lets prime the lines again and flick the switch

https://youtu.be/tYC1wywcdSc

This did make me do a little dance in the garage.

Oil pressure was great, upto around 80lb with a little rev, No knocks. No rattles - even the lifters were quiet! Very very happy.

I am never going to be a David Bailey but here is the second attempt.

Yes I am wearing wellies. With shorts. Get over it.

https://youtu.be/PoR4lYNlZmg

The hesitancy is because the pump is not running, the engine is running off the fuel in the rails and also the fuel pressure was around 20lb rather than 60lb but even so I will put that down as Great Success!

That is where I ran out of time for today as my parents were coming over for lunch but did close the door feeling very pleased with myself. Even Lady P came out and congratulated me. Well I think that what she was saying as my ears were ringing from the awesomeness of the open exhausts...

Next stage is going to be getting the firewall ready for paint, stripping the undersea from Woodys bottom and generally getting ready to put the cab back on the chassis. Aim is to have this next part of the deal done by middle October, so another 6 week sprint. I have a tree to collect at Christmas.

Still waiting for my benefactor to show up with my T56 though....

With that I will wish you a very pleasant Sunday.

Until the next time....

ONWARDS!!!!

P.

p.s I have tried for the past 10 minutes to get the video to play on this page but failed miserably . Sorry!

[jmarkha1]

good result - bet you’re chuffed with that...

[Grizz1963]

Well done mate.

I know you were looking forward to this point.

Next…….