How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**67cheby** · 04-06-2011, 09:37 AM

nice

gringoloco · 04-06-2011, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Those are all purdy like

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67cheby

nice

Thanks, fellas! Hope they fit...

gringoloco · 04-06-2011, 11:06 PM

Ok. Re-worked the control assembly and it is now finished and functioning perfectly. Heater hoses and heater valve are in, the pressure lines are cut to length, but need to be crimped. Also worked on installing the compressor, which proved to be a fun time, since it didn't want to align with my serpentine setup. The bracket kit I used is from Nostalgic Air, made to convert an R4 mount to a Sanden, but the spacing was off by 1/4". Dunno if it was made for a different year setup, or my clutch is different, but a few shims took care of it and it seems to run true. We'll see once I start the engine again, which will be as soon as the Blazer tank goes back in...

The engine bay is looking a lot different than it did before- not sure if it's for the better or worse. I don't particularly like the look of the A/C, but it's form over function. Funny, most of the work I've done (wiring, plumbing, painting, etc) doesn't really show in pictures

but at least I know it's done right.

gringoloco · 04-06-2011, 11:24 PM

Started working on installing my cheesy stereo 'system'

These truck box speakers came with the truck when I got it and have been bouncing around behind the seat not functioning for a while. Somewhere along the way, the power wire shorted to ground and smoked the other amp.

I simplified the setup by using only one amplifier and got to install my first piece of bed wood

- I used it to build a mount for the amp (better than being wood-screwed to the cab floor like it was before) that will also serve to tie the boxes together and help keep them from sliding all over the cab. Worked some on wiring the head unit too- it is getting VERY tight behind the dash with all the new components installed. I'm still trying to figure out how I'm gonna route the A/C ducting...

Hopefully no one steals my cheesy speakers. I know they look cool, but they're really cheap crap

04-06-2011, 09:37 AM	#1
67cheby 67cheby Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: siloam springs ar 72761 Posts: 17,890	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 nice __________________ Check out Slosh Tubz, bolt-in inner fenders for frame laying C-10's Slosh Tubz Introductory Price $559 67 Cheby's Dropmember Build Thread Slosh Tubz on Facebook http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554172

04-06-2011, 11:06 PM	#3
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,920	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Ok. Re-worked the control assembly and it is now finished and functioning perfectly. Heater hoses and heater valve are in, the pressure lines are cut to length, but need to be crimped. Also worked on installing the compressor, which proved to be a fun time, since it didn't want to align with my serpentine setup. The bracket kit I used is from Nostalgic Air, made to convert an R4 mount to a Sanden, but the spacing was off by 1/4". Dunno if it was made for a different year setup, or my clutch is different, but a few shims took care of it and it seems to run true. We'll see once I start the engine again, which will be as soon as the Blazer tank goes back in... The engine bay is looking a lot different than it did before- not sure if it's for the better or worse. I don't particularly like the look of the A/C, but it's form over function. Funny, most of the work I've done (wiring, plumbing, painting, etc) doesn't really show in pictures but at least I know it's done right. Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

04-06-2011, 11:24 PM	#4
gringoloco A guy with a truck Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Germany, for now Posts: 5,920	Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 Started working on installing my cheesy stereo 'system' These truck box speakers came with the truck when I got it and have been bouncing around behind the seat not functioning for a while. Somewhere along the way, the power wire shorted to ground and smoked the other amp. I simplified the setup by using only one amplifier and got to install my first piece of bed wood - I used it to build a mount for the amp (better than being wood-screwed to the cab floor like it was before) that will also serve to tie the boxes together and help keep them from sliding all over the cab. Worked some on wiring the head unit too- it is getting VERY tight behind the dash with all the new components installed. I'm still trying to figure out how I'm gonna route the A/C ducting... Hopefully no one steals my cheesy speakers. I know they look cool, but they're really cheap crap Attached Images __________________ -Chris Instagram _elgringoloco_ '70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10 ‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd '72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD) '72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD) '05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD) ‘07 Yukon Denali (daily) Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy Last edited by gringoloco; 04-06-2011 at 11:31 PM.



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