'65 C60 Help Needed: Brakes, wheels, tanks, wiring

[jamesmadconductor]

Hi all! Picked up a gem of a low mileage (7500) farm truck (C60 dump truck) from Texas last week. Lots of good things about the truck, but with such low mileage, there are issues that need to be addressed. I have searched the forums, but the various results are getting a bit overwhelming to keep organized. I am hoping that some might be willing to help me get this truck to reliable function around my small town.

Details:
-'65 C60 dump, cab tag (pic attached) has 19,500 GVW, C15 2spd Rear axle 6.40-8.72, 157 wheelbase, 5 spd trans (not sure if it's Clark, Spicer, or Eaton, anyone advise how I can identify?)
-crate 366 installed five years ago after original block cracked, but I don't see any frame modifications/welds for the motor mounts, so I'm really wondering what block was original
-Intended for demolition/landfill runs over the next six months, then use as a Main Street touring vehicle for visitors

I need the following help:
-Brakes: would like to upgrade to a dual master. Original drum systems don't bother me, but I am hoping to get all new drums, shoes, hardware, and wheel cylinders replaced. Can someone provide part numbers or guidance on locating the parts? Maybe photos of what you've done for master cylinder upgrades?

-Wheels: tires are in desperate need of replacement but I am far from any fleet services such as ALCOA or Snider, and the smaller shops will not touch split rims. I'd like to get replacement wheels without modification, if possible. 10 hole/5lug on front, 10 lug on rear. I know others have dealt with this, let me know what has worked!

-Fuel tanks: both are dirty, one hasn't been used in a few years. Wanting to get both operational, and clean, with correctly calibrated sending units. Any advice on best way to tackle these? This is my first time dealing with side-mount tanks and any guidance would be very appreciated. For example, would it be best to replace the tanks with new ones? If so, would you recommend specific suppliers?

-Wiring: As with many farm trucks, there has been some "make it work" additions/splices/interesting decisions made. For instance, my dash and cab clearance lights only come on when I press the brake pedal, or sometimes when I engage the turn signal stalk (but still the signals don't work), but the aftermarket hazards work just fine. With this type of stuff, I have often simply located a correct replacement harness and started new. Does anyone have leads for correct harnesses?

I want to use this truck for its intended purpose, and keep it running for a long time coming, as I do with my others. But now that I've entered the medium duty truck world, I could really use the guidance/help of those who have been here before. Thanks in advance for anything you can provide to help me keep this one on the road.

[Pvmt-Pndr]

The trans should have a tag on the side. It should have all the info you need on it to figure out what it is.

Brakes I can't help with as I have air.

You'll have to look at harnesses from another 1965 truck, a C30 for instance. I could not find anyone that could guarantee the whole harness would fit my 1969 C60. I looked up all the wiring from a C10-30 and what I found was most of the wiring was the same just a different color or route, not all of the harness worked until I replaced everything with the C30 harness. I delt with this place http://www.wiringharness.com/ and took the gamble. If you call them they'll get you taken care of and tell you what harnesses you'll need. All and all it cost me just over $1k for wiring. They custom make each harness and take forever to do it. I was emailed every excuse in the book about lead times.

Be sure to also replace your 2 speed wiring on your shifter, if it hasn't gone bad yet it will soon. That can be bought elsewhere for around $50 if I remember correctly.

I added a used 50 gallon fuel tank to my truck and after draining and playing hell trying to get it clean I ended up draining it and power washed it then used my shop vac to get as much water as I could out. Then power washed it again and again. Multiple fuel filters and a final cleaning it hasn't given me any other issues. I have a 1/2" drain at the bottom of it to allow crud to fall out.

Ohm your sending units, they may work just fine. I wouldn't be surprised if your float fell off or has a pin hole in it after all these years.

Try looking here for tire information. I'm sure what you're looking for is there somewhere.
https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads...tml#Post867617

[VictoriaHardware]

There's not a simple "dual master brake cylinder" conversion available for these trucks like the light duty trucks & cars. They use a Hydra-Vac Slave/Master arrangement. It is the Achilles Heel of these trucks. Parts are still available but you have to dig. Search for GM NOS parts. Wagner & Bendix made most of the parts in the system.

If you can't find new wheel cylinders and yours are too pitted, consider brass sleeving them.

Knowledgeable people to rebuild & service the booster are hard to find.

Nice truck, congrats.

[VictoriaHardware]

The light issues sound like a possible grounding problem. Try chasing that down before you buy a whole new harness. The wire harness in the cab is almost identical to pickups. All the wiring diagrams are in the Shop Manual.

[Airdirect]

The hydraboost system does not lend itself to a dual system without lots of changes. You will find the OEM system in good working condition will provide excellent braking at rated loads leaving nothing to be desired. Make sure your parking brake is in good working order as well. Rock Auto is a good source for wheel and master cylinders. I would consider flushing the system (compressed air and brake clean) and replacing all cylinders, even hydravac master cylinder, and service the entire system with DOT 5 brake fluid which does not have a tendency to draw moisture and cause pitting. The rubber lines, front wheels and Master Cylinder, need to be replaced as well. You should not need shoes, if they are oil soaked (wheel seals), just clean them with brake clean. Overall not a bad job and very rewarding.

My project:

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=721374
Brake Repair Page 5

[Airdirect]

Regarding your rims, not sure if you have split rims or not. Most people call lock ring rims "split rims" which they are not. On split rims the lock ring is solid and the rim is split. Lots of confusion on this issue. Lock rings are not a problem, however lots of shops will not work on them as they are treated like split rims. Provide some closeup pictures and we can help identify your rims.

[Pick121]

I can’t help much I am in the same boat as you trying to figure the same stuff out BUT: here is a link I found on this forum for Burgie’s 1964 C60 http://www.chevyc60.com which will be extremely similar to your project. His page describes in detail, with where to get parts and how to rebuild the Hydraboost. I will definitely subscribe and follow you along, and if I make any headway on my 1963 C50 I will post on my build page.

http://www.chevyc60.com/

[Pick121]

Originally Posted by jamesmadconductor

Details:
-'65 C60 dump, cab tag (pic attached) has 19,500 GVW, C15 2spd Rear axle 6.40-8.72, 157 wheelbase, 5 spd trans (not sure if it's Clark, Spicer, or Eaton, anyone advise how I can identify?)

According to the 1965 Truck GM Heritage manual (you should check it out) assuming it is the rear end that came with the truck:
https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...olet-Truck.pdf
If you have the vacuum shift 2 speed it’s a Chevrolet rear end, if electric shift it’s an Eaton
As for the Transmission, I think you said it’s a 5 Spd, without crawling around looking for serial numbers just check the shifter knob (assuming it represents the actual shift pattern) you should be able to determine if it.s New Process, Clark, or Spicer