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Old 08-12-2022, 09:46 PM   #1
dmjlambert
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Question Drum is stuck

Hi,

If you folks have any clues to give I would appreciate it. I have a 1969 C-10 long bed pickup with rear drum brakes. It is my daily driver. Last night I was pulling into the driveway and had to give it more gas than I thought was normally necessary to get up the incline of the short driveway. As soon as I pulled to a stop I smelled something burning. I got out of the truck and the driver side rear wheel was smoking. I looked back in the truck to make sure I had not been driving with the parking brake on, and I was not. Whew. But it was just the driver side acting up. What I think may have happened is a brake shoe fell apart and wedged itself in there crooked or doubled up or something like that. I would like to know.

I chocked the front wheel and jacked up the wheel and took the rear wheel off, put the transmission in neutral. I'm trying to turn the hub and drum to line up with the adjusting hole so I can back off the adjustment, but I can't turn the drum. Any hints or tips? I have posted here a video to show that the brake is not impossibly tight, I can wiggle the drum just fine.

I tried putting my hubcap tool behind the drum and use a mallet to hammer the drum off, but it won't come off that way. I'm going to go back out there and puzzle over it a while longer while you folks may have time to soak this in and perhaps give me some homework. I appreciate it.

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Old 08-12-2022, 09:56 PM   #2
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Re: Drum is stuck

The only thing I can think of is pry bars from the back.
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Old 08-12-2022, 10:00 PM   #3
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Re: Drum is stuck

If it is like what happened to me you wont hammer it off. You need a light and some bendy tools and to go at it from the back. Get in there and wiggle away, save your strength.
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Old 08-12-2022, 10:04 PM   #4
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Re: Drum is stuck

OK thanks. I put the nuts on to protect the threads and used leverage to move it. Better.
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Old 08-12-2022, 10:09 PM   #5
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Re: Drum is stuck

Get both rear tires off the ground (you're half way there) after putting the right rear wheel back on. Mark where the adjuster hole is in the drum out on the tire/wheel and use your engine to turn the drum. It has a bit more torque ability that you do!
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Old 08-12-2022, 10:25 PM   #6
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Re: Drum is stuck

Yes, that is interesting. I thought about leaving the right wheel on the ground to keep it stationary, and use the engine to turn just the left drum while it is in the air, but I did not have enough beer to support my decision making toward that method. The right wheel is turning freely, so I'm sure the engine power would just turn that right wheel if both were off the ground.

Something I did consider is mark the position on the tire, and put the tire on and drive it forward a few inches, then jack it up and take the wheel off. Anyway I did get the drum turned by using leverage, and loosened the star wheel and took the drum off. Here is where we are.
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Old 08-12-2022, 10:40 PM   #7
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Re: Drum is stuck

So far I have not found a reason for the smoking. It looks fine to me, other than I have the long shoe in front. So I'm puzzled.

Something I omitted from the story is last week I adjusted my brakes because my automatic adjusters are not keeping them adjusted as they wear. I adjusted them so they were tight and then backed off the adjusters until the drum moved freely. I did that on all 4 wheels. I was needing to get that done because the brake pedal was sinking too low. Every couple of years I need to do that.

I don't have anything funky going on like wrong adjuster for the side of the vehicle or anything like that. The adjuster wheel is just worn too much. I know the parts are right because when I reach in the drum window I am pushing down on the star with a screwdriver to tighten, and pushing up to loosen. I have since the adjustment driven several hundred miles and have not had this problem of the smoking and stuck brake come up. I would think if there was any drag from that adjustment it would have worn off the brake shoes just a little and there could have been smoking slightly on my first test drive after the adjustment, but the truck has been working fine and no problems. Now a week later pulling into the driveway I suddenly have a problem with just the left rear.

In the next couple weeks I'm going to completely replace my brakes with a 5 lug system from a 1971 truck. So at that time I'm going to make sure the auto adjusters are working fine.

I'm thinking of putting the drum back on and adjust it and take it for a test drive.

Last edited by dmjlambert; 08-12-2022 at 10:41 PM. Reason: Some minor corrections
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Old 08-12-2022, 10:57 PM   #8
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Re: Drum is stuck

Your shoes are on wrong.
Short pad goes to the front.
That might cause the problem you have.

Memory is fuzzy but I think the brakes are self energizing. That’s the reason the short shoe is in the front.
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Old 08-12-2022, 11:16 PM   #9
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Re: Drum is stuck

I had my daughter sit in the driver's seat and depress and release the parking brake. I saw movement in both directions of the lever it moves in the drum brakes. I had her press the brake pedal and saw no movement from the cylinder. I am embarrassed to say here, but I'm just going to say it and you all can scold me, there is no brake fluid in the rear reservoir of the master cylinder. Man oh man. So time to fill it up and then see what I got going on after that.
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Old 08-12-2022, 11:25 PM   #10
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Re: Drum is stuck

And of course I'll need to bleed them. I think I'll flush front and back reservoirs and bleed them until all the old fluid is out of the lines. I don't have all my tools handy because I'm down the road apiece (Texas version of down the road apiece, several hundred miles) from my house. So my nephew is coming over tomorrow to help me out.
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Old 08-12-2022, 11:31 PM   #11
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Re: Drum is stuck

Before you add the fluid, make sure you get your shoes swapped to the correct orientation mentioned by geezer#99 above
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Old 08-13-2022, 12:22 AM   #12
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Re: Drum is stuck

Yes and thanks. I’ll get it all straight and working I hope. I may post here again if I run into something more that puzzles me. For now I just have my embarrassing improper maintenance to deal with.
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Old 08-13-2022, 08:14 AM   #13
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Re: Drum is stuck

Your strut bar has fallen down, resulting in the shoes being pushed farther out.

Or so it looks.
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Old 08-13-2022, 09:00 AM   #14
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Re: Drum is stuck

I would check your brake lines, wheel cylinders and such, before adding brake fluid. If no one has replaced the lines, brake parts, rust/wear-n-tear, you could have a leak. Reason-1 why Im doing a total brake system re-do.

Good luck...Don.
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Old 08-13-2022, 09:04 AM   #15
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Re: Drum is stuck

Maybe the wheel cylinder sticks. Could be the parking brake cable doesnt return 100% too.
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Old 08-13-2022, 10:47 AM   #16
dmjlambert
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Re: Drum is stuck

I wish to thank you guys for replying here and giving me all this great info. I'm checking out all the things you are pointing out. This forum is the best there is for social networking on the web, plain old good advice, and friendliness, and I appreciate you folks.
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Old 08-13-2022, 10:48 AM   #17
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Re: Drum is stuck

If the adjustment is too tight, the drum will expand with the heat. Then, when backing up, the adjuster will take up some slack. This can be a vicious cycle. I've had to back the brakes off on people's vehicles at the side of the road in the past.
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Old 08-13-2022, 11:39 AM   #18
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Re: Drum is stuck

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmjlambert View Post
Hi,

If you folks have any clues to give I would appreciate it. I have a 1969 C-10 long bed pickup with rear drum brakes. It is my daily driver. Last night I was pulling into the driveway and had to give it more gas than I thought was normally necessary to get up the incline of the short driveway. As soon as I pulled to a stop I smelled something burning. I got out of the truck and the driver side rear wheel was smoking. I looked back in the truck to make sure I had not been driving with the parking brake on, and I was not. Whew. But it was just the driver side acting up. What I think may have happened is a brake shoe fell apart and wedged itself in there crooked or doubled up or something like that. I would like to know.

I chocked the front wheel and jacked up the wheel and took the rear wheel off, put the transmission in neutral. I'm trying to turn the hub and drum to line up with the adjusting hole so I can back off the adjustment, but I can't turn the drum. Any hints or tips? I have posted here a video to show that the brake is not impossibly tight, I can wiggle the drum just fine.

I tried putting my hubcap tool behind the drum and use a mallet to hammer the drum off, but it won't come off that way. I'm going to go back out there and puzzle over it a while longer while you folks may have time to soak this in and perhaps give me some homework. I appreciate it.

Drum stuck - YouTube
I'm going all the way back to your original post on this thread. You mentioned you checked to make sure your parking brake wasn't engaged. That implies it still works. Up here in the rust belt the parking brake cables rust up. Then when you use the brake, you got leverage with the pedal but when you release it, one or more of the cables is frozen which would cause one or both sides to hang up.

Have your daughter work the parking brake while you observe. A temporary fix to a stuck parking brake cable is to remove the bar that goes horizontal across the top of the axel between the two shoes. You can leave that out and never have a parking brake or leave it out while you hunt down brake cable parts.

A solo way to see if a cable is stuck, and is something I always do after doing a drum brake job - this is hard to describe - with everything assembled and the drum still off, whack the bottom of the shoes with the lower part of each hand, back and forth. The shoes should pivot back and forth and remain in a circle. If the top of each shoe pops out when you hit the bottom, you got a stuck parking brake cable and removing that bar will fix the problem.
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Old 08-21-2022, 02:21 PM   #19
dmjlambert
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Re: Drum is stuck

I believe my brake lines were restrictive, perhaps collapsed inside the brake hose between frame and differential, and causing the brake to be partially engaged and not fully releasing, which lead to heat build up and cylinder failure. The cylinder was leaking. After replacing the cylinder and brake shoes last weekend I got back home. On the way home I stopped often. One time I stopped in the middle of the trip the wheel was normal outside temperature. The other times I stopped I thought the wheel was excessive in temperature, as in uncomfortable to hold the hub cap for more than 5 seconds. So the problem was intermittent.

This weekend I replaced the brake lines from the front to the back including hose, tee, and lines going to the cylinders. Bleeding was a whole new story compared to last weekend, about 10 pumps of the brake filled the little bottle on the one-man bleeder tool. Much more volume and free flowing this time. Preliminary test drives do not heat it up. I’m going to monitor it for the next 20 or 30 trips and see how it goes.

If this fix sticks it is the same thing as posted by Knanthrup in this old thread
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=609667
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Old 08-22-2022, 04:46 PM   #20
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Re: Drum is stuck

Glad to hear you got it fixed. Its not uncommon for brake hoses to fail as they age or something causes damage to it and then restrict the return flow of brake fluid.
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