Project "Leon "

[swamp rat]

Your making nice progress, keep at it!

[texasld]

More work this weekend. Man was it hot, 108 at 2:00p... not fun. Still got something done though.

Cleaned, assembled, installed new seals, and painted my rear end and finally made something happen with it.

Also installed springs, shocks, bump stops, and my home made track bar (It's a bit dirty from my grimy hands.)

My back it sore this morning...

[texasld]

The brown truck showed up and dropped off my new valve covers!



These things look SUPER AWESOME!!!!


Spent some time grinding and painting my calipers. Took forever! I also painting and sanding my rotors. I'm pretty happy with the way they turned out!

[texasld]

Doing some sketching in inventor. Looking at maybe custom billet door handles.

[Xeen]

Great job on the frame it looks like you are doing some really good work.
I have some insight and hard won experience for you from not only my own build but from friends builds as well that will help you out.

Shortening the bed is the subject of much debate but anyone who has ever done it will tell you "it's an ok mod" meaning the bedsides turn out to be a nightmare and each of them will tell you if they had to do it all over again they would buy reproduction bedsides.

The reasons are numerous but the biggest factor is the time involved to make it right and if you aren't an expert metal worker you are in for a rough ride there are serious issues with the body lines because they don't line up once the bed is shortened and there are compound curves involved which combined with the mismatched body lines are a nightmare.

Every one of them will tell you that if you have a steel floor bed the best way to go about it is to section the floor properly and then bolt on reproduction bedsides, it is critical that you are precise when you shorten the floor or it wont bolt up.

I know you have already started the shortening process but I suggest you stop and buy the reproduction bedsides then once you have them you can take precise measurements and finish sectioning the floor because it's a $1,000 mistake if you do it wrong.

Pay close attention to the weight of the bedsides you buy because there are two different quality parts available "collision quality" and "OEM quality" the difference is the OEM quality bedsides use the original thickness metal and the collision ones don't and they are flimsy and dent easily.
For example the bedsides from Classic Industries the 1967 only bedsides weigh roughly 20 pounds apiece more than the 1968-72 bedsides.

I purchased the 1967 bedsides for my truck and I am very, very happy I did.
I know it's $1000 you didn't want to spend but trust me when I tell you it is worth every dime and then some.

Keep up the good work brother.

[texasld]

Brian, That is some GREAT incite. Thank you for the info. I have been thinking about just buying Repos, and you have sealed the deal for me. Thanks again for the info.

-Mike

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by texasld

Brian, That is some GREAT incite. Thank you for the info. I have been thinking about just buying Repos, and you have sealed the deal for me. Thanks again for the info.

-Mike

Anytime and if you have any questions don't be afraid to ask because there are guys on here that have tons of experience and like me are more than happy to help you out.

[texasld]

Here is the Track Bar before I installed it.

[Molberg]

Real nice work so far.... I'm signed up.

[texasld]

More work from this last weekend.

Got my front rotors back from POL. They drilled and slotted them for $75.00. I got the rotors free from a friend at work. Then I painted them to match the rear rotors. Next, sand, pack bearings, and install. What do you think about my awesome paint rack?



Finished up the brake lines on the rear. First time using a bender and a flaring tool. We will see if I did them right when it comes time to bleed. I used a hose from an 88 4runner that I found at NAPA (an hour of digging through boxes) that had a 1/4" in and (2) 3/16" out with a bolt hole. Made a simple bracket out of some steel I had laying around for it to mount to on the reared, and cut a 3" tab in the cross member for the input side. Simply threads in with a 5/8 18 nut... I like how it turned out.




Here is the part number if you are looking for something similar.

Also got my tank painted and installed. It's a brothers 17gal (I think). Mounted up pretty easily. Looks cool to me. I welded in a 3/16 return line for my LS. It was kind of a rigged event. Couple of parts from the local ace, but It works. You can Kind of see it in the lower left corner of the tank. It uses a 3/16 hose barb to 1/8" NPT into a 1/8" street elbow, and then an 1/8" steel reducer that I cut in half and then welded to the tank.

[texasld]

Also some pictures of the LS tear down.




Took it to the car wash to clean it up a bit.

[texasld]

Here is a couple of more. Sorry, I can only upload 5 at a time.





Surprisingly under all this filth, the motor seem to be in AMAZING shape. There is 0 Lip in the cylinder walls and the hone marks are still highly visible.

[Xeen]

Sounds like the engine was a good find.
When you go to install the engine I recommend relocating the A/C compressor using a Holley bracket kit if you plan on running A/C anyway.
You can buy the CPP sheet metal engine perches and stock location LS adapter plate that way you can use TBSS, Camaro or Truck exhaust manifolds and just about any headers out there without any interference issues.
I have been down this road with mine and you will save yourself major headaches by going that route.
I would be happy to answer any questions you have on exactly what stuff to buy if you need me to.

[texasld]

Originally Posted by Xeen

Sounds like the engine was a good find.
When you go to install the engine I recommend relocating the A/C compressor using a Holley bracket kit if you plan on running A/C anyway.
You can buy the CPP sheet metal engine perches and stock location LS adapter plate that way you can use TBSS, Camaro or Truck exhaust manifolds and just about any headers out there without any interference issues.
I have been down this road with mine and you will save yourself major headaches by going that route.
I would be happy to answer any questions you have on exactly what stuff to buy if you need me to.

I saw a post where a guy trimmed about an inch or 1 1/2" out of the frame rail with no problem. I was going to try to go that route. I think with the cross member bolted directly under the rail, it wont be a big issue. I have also seen where they heated the frame rail and bent it. That would be an option too.

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by texasld

I saw a post where a guy trimmed about an inch or 1 1/2" out of the frame rail with no problem. I was going to try to go that route. I think with the cross member bolted directly under the rail, it wont be a big issue. I have also seen where they heated the frame rail and bent it. That would be an option too.

The issue isn't whether or not the compressor can be made to work in that location it's that it is more trouble than it's worth, I'm just trying to save you a lot of trouble.

[texasld]

This single photo took forever to take. I think I have about 32 hours in disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly thus far.

As always. Excuse the mess. I promise I clean my garage all the time.

[texasld]

It's been awhile since I have posted but I have been trucking along.

I have cleaned, painted, rebuilt, and mounted the power steering box.

I'm so tired of cleaning parts. I think I'm done for a little, but it seems to be wort it. I'm pretty proud of how this turned out!

Cleaned, new seals, and painted the 4l60e


Here she is mounted in the frame with the headers mounted up and ready to go to the exhaust shop.





I don't know how I could be so lucky with the AC compressor. I used TransDapt LS adapters. (Did have to trim my A/C compressor bracket to clear the adapter plates.) My truck was originally a 396 so I have the 69 BBC stands. Everything worked out and all I have to do is a SLIGHT trim for the hose. The Trans X member even lined up in the stock holes. Couldent ask for a better 2 days off from work.

[mcbassin]

Your engine and tranny look great! Where are you mounting your coil packs?

[texasld]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Your engine and tranny look great! Where are you mounting your coil packs?

Thanks, Man!

I'm thinking low on the firewall or inside the frame rail behind the motor mounts. I'll probably build a heat shield for them to protect from the headers.

I guess I could get REALLY crafty and mount them behind the firewall, and make some type of connector, but under dash space is limited, and that just increases the length of plug wire...


These are the adapter plates I got for them off of ebay. I should be able to figure something out.

[texasld]

Little slow on the uptake with posting these pictures. But I have made some progress. I have some great pictures of what NOT to do with Bondo. The PO really tried to polish this turd. Lots of rust repair to do here. It's do or die time here, Friends.

[texasld]

DANG IT!!!! The site will not let me upload these pictures!!!!!!!

[texasld]

[texasld]

Finally got them up. I have more coming.

[texasld]

Became friends with a powder coater in the Dallas Area. He quoted me $300 to PC my frame!!!! That's a GREAT deal in this area.

Anywho, He has let me borrow his sand blast booth for the price of a pack of liquid refreshments. Here are some pictures of the blast. Lots more holes to patch!

[texasld]

I can only do the 5 pictures at a time. I'm just trying to catch up here.

After the blasting, I started on patching up some holes and smoothing my firewall. Also welded in the patch for the filler neck. I'm new to this fineness metal working jig. Let me know if there is anything I can improve on.









Also got some wheels on the frame. It can finally roll around the garage and into the driveway!