85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett"

[N2TRUX]

I cut strips of sound deadner and ran a horizontal pattern inside the door. It's a slow process that's rather frustrating to get all the strips to align evenly but with patience and persistence the dramatic reduction in sound resonance is well worth the effort.

I mounted the painted hardware and door handle assembly and gave the window harness a new wrap of tape. I think it's time to call it done for the night.

[LDO]

I've got similar plans for my 85.

I was gonna clean the inside of the doors with royal purple then some alcohol so that the sound deadner would stick.

What chemicals and deadner materials are you using?

[gringoloco]

Wow. Did you come out looking like you fought a badger? Doors always chew me up

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by LDO

I've got similar plans for my 85.I was gonna clean the inside of the doors with royal purple then some alcohol so that the sound deadner would stick. What chemicals and deadner materials are you using?

I started with Windex and Scotchbrite then followed with brake cleaner on paper towel pads. I made several passes till my pads came out clean. I found that 6" strips are perfect size. I bought a roll of Brown Bread by B-quiet a few years ago. Great price and it tested well against the high dollar brands.

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Wow. Did you come out looking like you fought a badger? Doors always chew me up

It's like trying to give a cat a bath in alcohol. With persistence you achieve good results, but your going to bleed, and it's going to sting a lot.

[N2TRUX]

Saturday was a productive day. Chris had errands to run so I worked on cleaning shop and got back to my door project. Just like before, I cleaned it thoroughly with Windex and Scotchbrite then followed with brake cleaner on paper towels.
All the hardware was blasted and painted and the wiring harness cleaned up.

[N2TRUX]

Once we wrapped that up, it was time to move on to the brakes. Before we could bleed them we needed to flush the system. It was obvious that it had never been done and I had no intentions of putting that gunk in my new brake calipers. We disconnected the lines and made purge bottles.
Chris pumped till it was dry and we cleaned the reservoir. He pumped till clean fluid filled the lines and we locked it down after a final purge and bleed.

[N2TRUX]

After the brakes were done we moved on to the fender liners. They had been patiently waiting and now it was their turn. We gently slipped them in place and installed the freshly painted bolts.
I can tell you this job can be done with one person, but having Chris work one end made it go so much smoother. We have almost no touch up to do because of that extra set of eyes and hands.

[LDO]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

I started with Windex and Scotchbrite then followed with brake cleaner on paper towel pads. I made several passes till my pads came out clean. I found that 6" strips are perfect size. I bought a roll of Brown Bread by B-quiet a few years ago. Great price and it tested well against the high dollar brands.
It's like trying to give a cat a bath in alcohol. With persistence you achieve good results, but your going to bleed, and it's going to sting a lot.

Thanks for always going back and answering questions. I for one, appreciate the extra effort you take in your posts to pass on your tips and procedures. You are really doing a good job and it has helped me out in the work I'm doing on my own 85.

[chevybuldr]

Always love watching your builds!!

[LDO]

how do you keep painted bolts from getting all buggered up when installing them?

[GAc10boy]

Originally Posted by LDO

how do you keep painted bolts from getting all buggered up when installing them?

I've found that to be an issue as well. No special technique for me other than letting them dry really well and just being careful with the bolt/screw head.

[N2TRUX]

Chris and I wrapped up a lot of little details and double checked our work. We finished the install of the splash gaurds that go behind the fenderliners. I had sprayed them with undercoat and let them dry overnight. It was time to put the cherry on top of the cake.

I will fix pics later..

[N2TRUX]

After lunch we focused on getting Scarlett on the ground again. Since someone made the exhaust one piece I had to cut it to remove it. Now we had to figure out how to temporarily reinstall it. We improvised using a rolled up piece of aluminum flashing held in place by hose clamps. Hey, it ain't pretty but it might get me to the muffler shop.
We triple checked our work and filled the transmission with new fluid. We added fresh gas to the tank and started her up. She sputtered a bit, then came to life. For the first time in several weeks Scarlett was driving again. She made the short trip to her stall in the garage and Chris and I wrapped up for the night.

[PEDROSKI]

Great work and attention to detail as always Ken.

[Palf70Step]

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by chevybuldr

Always love watching your builds!!

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

Originally Posted by PEDROSKI

Great work and attention to detail as always Ken.

Originally Posted by LDO

Thanks for always going back and answering questions. I for one, appreciate the extra effort you take in your posts to pass on your tips and procedures. You are really doing a good job and it has helped me out in the work I'm doing on my own 85.

Thanks guys. Your kind words and support are appreciated.

Originally Posted by LDO

how do you keep painted bolts from getting all buggered up when installing them?

Originally Posted by GAc10boy

I've found that to be an issue as well. No special technique for me other than letting them dry really well and just being careful with the bolt/screw head.

I do several light mist coats of paint so there in minimal build up. Once installed, we take a small brush and touch them up as needed.

[aggie91]

For painted bolt heads, I have put some masking tape on the inside of the socket to protect the paint, it gives a bit of cushion and I have had good results without having to touch up the paint at all on the bolts. Another thing that works is some heavy duty plastic wrap out of the kitchen or some industrial stretch wrap used to wrap pallets for shipping.

I have seen those actuator connectors online before, but now I cannot find them...

[05duramaxhd]

When you are working inside the doors. Take masking tape and go around the openings. This saves the arms very well. Looking great!

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 05duramaxhd

When you are working inside the doors. Take masking tape and go around the openings. This saves the arms very well. Looking great!

That's good advice. The edge of the openings are a bit abrasive, but it's the inner mechanical components that get me the most. I use disposable gloves most of the times, but you have to take them off when working with anything sticky.

Originally Posted by aggie91

For painted bolt heads, I have put some masking tape on the inside of the socket to protect the paint, it gives a bit of cushion and I have had good results without having to touch up the paint at all on the bolts. Another thing that works is some heavy duty plastic wrap out of the kitchen or some industrial stretch wrap used to wrap pallets for shipping.
I have seen those actuator connectors online before, but now I cannot find them...

I have used various forms of protection when installing chrome bolts. As I mentioned, I just do touch up on painted bolts.
I searched Dorman for a replacement connector. They offer one that says it fits my application but it does not. Still looking...

[N2TRUX]

Sunday night we wrapped up early. Chris had errands to run and I needed to pick up parts. My Relaxed Atmosphere brother Heath had a spare set of vent windows available after he installed the One Piece window kit conversion. He knew mine were in bad shape, so he hooked me up.
I plan to have them completely reconditioned by Precision Replacement Parts after @c10sinthepark but wanted to ensure they fit my truck properly.
I masked them up and squeezed them in the blasting cabinet. I blasted them and followed that with wet sanding and a solvent bath. A few coats of satin black and they look so much better. They still need a complete rebuild but they will work for now.

[LDO]

Same satin black you've been using throughout the truck that you mentioned earlier in your thread?

[mcbassin]

Very nice work Ken. All those little details are coming together nicely.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by LDO

Same satin black you've been using throughout the truck that you mentioned earlier in your thread?

Yes sir. Its not the correct sheen for a true factory look, but its better than the rust. Precision Replacement Parts will make them look show room fresh when the time comes.

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Very nice work Ken. All those little details are coming together nicely.

Thank you sir. I hope they come together quick enough to be ready for C10s in the Park.

[LDO]

Came home from work yesterday and your thread motivated me to get off my butt and re-wrap my PW and PDL wire harness. It really didn't take very long and it looked 10x better when I got done!

[N2TRUX]

In honor of humpday I worked on some humps and bumps tonight. The front of the bed looked like a bag of marbles on one side. If you look close at the bottom of the panel below the protruding dings, you can see the bead is smashed flat.
It's really hard to take pics, but I got the majority of the humps and bumps out and the bead has is a straight line again. Just a bit more hammer and dolly work and it's ready for primer.

Also note the bolts that hold the panel in at the bottom have been cut down. It drives me crazy how GM used bolts that were 1/2 too long to hold panels together.