47-55.1 AD Series, LS Swap, Original Suspension

[Father&son56project]

I've been looking through the old AD series build threads to try to find one that adds an LS engine while retaining the original front suspension. So far every build I've seen has had some sort of IFS kit/graft/swap etc. on it.

Can anyone recall a build thread that featured an LS swap with the original front suspension?

[mr48chev]

I don't think you will see many. a lot of guys especially the younger ones have the misguided concept that you can't drive an I beam axle truck over 55 or the world will end. Personal experience says you can cruise at 80 with one all day long if you have the drivetrain to do it with, Been there done that when I had the 283 in it. That's on long flat Texas roads and not the wiggly roads.

Steering box and left exhaust on #7 is still most likely be the big fight. The steering box normally gets in the way of most V8 engines in that area.

Second and a real issue is that when you remove the crossmember under the bellhousing you have to reinforce the frame The weight of the cab will push down on the outrigger brackets and twist the rails until the cab settles to the frame, That and I'd have to say removing that crossmember and not reinforcing the frame is what causes a lot of guys to think the frames won't handle a lot of power. An LS weighs about 460 so weight isn't an issue A 235 weighs about 450 according to the net.

[Father&son56project]

Mr48chev, thanks for the input! I’m currently keeping my eyes peeled for my next build, and an AD series truck is high on my list (I also like the late 40’s and early 50 Ford/Merc trucks). I like the idea of doing an LS swap, and one of the advantages of both the GM and Ford products in those years is the availability of upgrades like disc brakes that still keep the original frame and suspension. I have the option of S10 swapping the frame, but I was hoping to find a build thread that shows an LS drivetrain on an original AD frame & suspension so that I can see what the challenges (if any) there are. I’m a little slow, so for me pictures are always worth thousands of words!

[nvrdone]

I dont have an LS in my '49 AD, but its got a 327 with a 4 spd. I left the crossmember under the bell housing to keep the frame from twisting. For clearance at the steering box I used a front dump exhaust manifold. This swap was done 45+ years ago and still runs strong. It will cruise comfortably at 80 on I5 between Seattle and Portland. I have the tickets to prove it!! So I think an LS swap can be done successfully. Its just not the most popular swap.

[MARTINSR]

Don't know about the swap but most definetly the I beam and even the drum brakes are JUST FINE for driving. It's one of the most over thought things in the hobby of vintage cars. You simply drive leaving some room. It's that simple. And people will say a million things like you can't because someone will go in between you and the car ahead if you do that. I have literally studied traffic while driving my stone stock 59 Rambler with inch wide brake shoes. STUDIED it not just made opinions, kept logs on trip time and stop light length and on and on and found that you can't drive faster than traffic, done deal.

This was in the SF bay area not some little town in the country. I drove my truck with stock brakes and I beam for years and will again soon hopefully.

Brian

[Father&son56project]

Nvrdone: Thanks for your input. I looked up “front dump exhaust manifolds” for LS engines but found nothing. I did however find posts that say you can swap the manifolds from side to side, so I suppose I could just find a suitable passenger side one to use on the driver side (creating my own “front dump” style).

Martinsr: I agree that there is nothing wrong with using the original suspension. I am a very defensive driver, and I live in a very sparsely populated area. The nearest town (where our Tuesday cruise nights are held) has a whopping 2 intersections with traffic lights!

I am still in the “looking phase” for my next project, but I know myself well enough to know that I need to pick a project that will interest me. I’ve never done an LS swap, and I’d like to continue to learn about computer controlled vehicles. I’ve never done an AD either, so I’d love to do one of those. The S10 frame swap is always an option for me. I’m just about to put my current project (Project Fargolet) on the road, and it was an S10 chassis swap. I had a blast doing it, and a chassis swap on an AD has its advantages. Because of members like Skymangs, Joedoh and others, that swap is extremely well laid out, and most of the swaps documented on this site use an LS. It also opens the door to more potential project trucks, as the ¾ and 1 ton trucks are easier to find (and cheaper). If I do manage to find a decent half ton, I’d like to build it without a frame swap though. Most of the trucks that come up for sale here in Ontario are ones that have sat in western Canada farm fields for years, and the engines are typically toast. Since I want to learn more about the LS swaps anyway, a bad (or missing) original engine is fine by me. This is why I was asking for info on putting an LS into an original AD. Funny thing is, so far I have struck out finding a build thread from anyone who has actually done this. I have to think that I’m not the first person in history to have this idea!
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[Hcb3200]

My son (now 21) drives a 1956 Chevy pickup with a 2013 6.0 with the 6 speed transmission out of a 2500 Silverado as his daily driver since he was 16.
and it still has the straight axle with stock springs and shocks up front
. We added the sway bar after a couple of years of driving. That made a huge difference.
Still has the bump steer so potholes make for some fun driving. But he takes it back and forth to college on the interstate at 70, 75 mph (over 80 on passing) no issues.
For 3 years it ran all drums. But we have since upgraded to power disk brakes up front (hydroboost) and power steering (cpp 400 box in stock location).

[Hcb3200]

[QUOTE=Father&son56project;9074284]Nvrdone: Thanks for your input. I looked up “front dump exhaust manifolds” for LS engines but found nothing. I did however find posts that say you can swap the manifolds from side to side, so I suppose I could just find a suitable passenger side one to use on the driver side (creating my own “front dump” style).

run a passenger camero (or other flavor) on the driver side and it dumps in the front. and you can get them cheap. mine cost me a case of bottle cheep water.
The car guys ripe them out and toss them at the mod shops. Plenty laying around brand new off of crate engines.

passenger on driver side and a passenger on passenger side give you plenty of room for power steering boxes and ac compressors in stock locations.

.

[Hcb3200]

Also like you said you can find a lot of good engine/transmission combos out of all kinds of things. I found the express van to be a great source because they are a cheap. Also suggest you get the engine / trans, ECM combos not just the engine. Reason is a lot of "computer" data comes from trans as well a speed etc. having the combo with correct ecm gets you out of "will this work with that discussion". I run the 6.0, 6L90 trans with e78 computer because it was way cheap because no one wants the e78 its needs both engine and trans (tcm is in the 6l90) to do its job without a lot of fuss. you could go with e38 and any trans you want lots of guys to help on that e38 and other ECM models.

But in reality. I figured out which wire powered the engine harness. put 12 volts to it.
Got the software (hp tuners) to disable the security stuff and checks on starter etc. This was all of three clicks of the mouse. Flashed the computer. turned the key and it fired right up. I was rather surprised.

With that light truck and 3.73 rear end it hooks and smokes a lot of guys off the light. Hit 75 let off the gas (bump steer and over 85 is a little fun) and wave as they pass you.

But by then your already 1/8 to 1/4 mile down the road. with a big grin on your face.

[Hcb3200]

Guys before you start commenting. This picture is middle of move stuff around phase.
you can ignore the radiator hose over the top. We now have it routed differently. and a few other things look a lot better. its the only pic i could find at moment.

This has the original donor engine fuse box mounted on same type battery tray that is on passenger side but on driver side. The black box pairs nicely with the black battery. But a lot of guys user the aftermarket smaller boxes.. The ECM is under the tray. The fuse box has everything needed and then plenty of spares etc. We did not cut any of the harness. why mess up what gm spent years engineering. Like i said put 12 volts to the box and hooked up the starter switch.

Stock intake with stock mass air flow sensor just cut off the square box and put a cone filter on the end. its going to get routed to a front intake behind grill to get cooler air but it ran like this for year no issue. The donor engine had the mechanical fan. I did replace the hub to a shorter shaft for more room around radiator. Radiator has a shroud not shown. This engine and trans fit with zero modification to firewall. basic transmission mount, and ls/v8 mounts bolted to frame. no cutting. stock crossmember still in place. and it lines up nicely with pinion angles. etc.

The idea is there and it has been done. Lots of really fancy looking ones out there as well. This truck was our pure budget build. and was build to be driven then worked on driven then worked on. We tried not to go more than 90 days with it not drivable. the body need work for sure.

[Father&son56project]

Hcb3200: That is a lot of good info. Of course yours appears to be a Taskforce series, whereas I am looking at doing an AD series. But by funny coincidence, my first build was a bone stock ‘56 3200 which is still in the family and could really use an engine, so the info you provided answers a bunch of my question for that truck. I will likely PM you some questions if we decide to modernize the drivetrain in the ‘56!

[Hcb3200]

Feel free to pm. I noted you were looking at AD but I saw 56 in your handle so figured I keep going. We run a Colorado rear end with a locker. After our original rear end cracked when a rear leaf spring shackle let loose.