6 Lug Rear Disc with E-Brake Brackets

[Captainfab]

This set of brackets will allow you to have rear disc brakes on your 6 x 5.5 bolt pattern ’64-’87 GM truck 10 and 12 bolt rear differentials. This rear disc conversion is completely bolt on with one exception. The drum/wheel register will need machined down to approximately 3.06”. I do recommend upgrading to ½” wheel studs at this time, but it isn’t absolutely necessary for the installation. The rotors used with these brackets as well as the calipers are easily found at your local auto parts supplier. The basic application for the rotors is a 2000 Silverado or Suburban. The application for the calipers is the ’93-’97 F-body rear calipers. A complete parts list with part numbers is included with the brackets.

Since these rotors are nearly 13” in diameter, you will need to run 16” or larger diameter wheels. With the 16” wheels I would suggest verifying that your wheels are compatible with this size of rotor prior to purchasing this disc brake conversion.

The cost on this set of brackets with installation hardware is regularly $120.00. However, thru March 31, 2011 the introductory price is $100.00. Satin black powder coating is an additional $12.50. Shipping within the USA is a flat $11.65. If you are outside of the USA, contact me for a shipping cost. For payments I accept PayPal and money orders. Credit card payments can be made thru PayPal. To place an order, you can send me a PM here on the forum or you can email me at captainfab454 at hotmail dot com.

I would like to thank a former member here, grendel for contacting me about making these brackets, and for supplying a rotor suggestion as well as installed photos.

In a couple of days I will post a pic of the complete package you are purchasing.

[Captainfab]

Here are some pics from grendel's installation

[Greywolf200]

That's a cool looking setup. I'm going to look at it a lot closer if I go to bigger wheels.

[Captainfab]

Thanks for the compliment.

Yes, that is the one thing about the rotors bigger than about 12", is you can't run a 15" wheel.

[hd74]

i have a gmc with a dana 44 rear end do you think this would work??? thanks

[Greywolf200]

I'll x-post this question cause I don't know which is the correct place to put it. From looking at the specs, it looks like your D52 kit will work with a '96 K1500 rotor if you make your spacer 5/8" thinner.

[Captainfab]

Sorry, no these brackets will not work on a Dana 44. The backing plate flange has a different bolt pattern and I'm not sure if the brake offset is the same as a 12 bolt.

Originally Posted by hd74

i have a gmc with a dana 44 rear end do you think this would work??? thanks

[Captainfab]

You are correct in that a 5/8" spacer will line up the caliper with the '96 K1500 rotor, but that rotor will not accomodate a D52 caliper and pad. I already tried that a while ago. I have plans on working on a conversion utilizing the '88-'98 K1500 rotor, but with the D369 calipers. Those are the ones that are OEM on the '88-'98 K1500's. These will work with 15" wheels.

Originally Posted by Greywolf200

I'll x-post this question cause I don't know which is the correct place to put it. From looking at the specs, it looks like your D52 kit will work with a '96 K1500 rotor if you make your spacer 5/8" thinner.

[localmotion74]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

This set of brackets will allow you to have rear disc brakes on your 6 x 5.5 bolt pattern ’64-’87 GM truck 10 and 12 bolt rear differentials. This rear disc conversion is completely bolt on with one exception. The drum/wheel register will need machined down to approximately 3.06”. I do recommend upgrading to ½” wheel studs at this time, but it isn’t absolutely necessary for the installation. The rotors used with these brackets as well as the calipers are easily found at your local auto parts supplier. The basic application for the rotors is a 2000 Silverado or Suburban. The application for the calipers is the ’93-’97 F-body rear calipers. A complete parts list with part numbers is included with the brackets.

Since these rotors are nearly 13” in diameter, you will need to run 16” or larger diameter wheels. With the 16” wheels I would suggest verifying that your wheels are compatible with this size of rotor prior to purchasing this disc brake conversion.

The cost on this set of brackets with installation hardware is regularly $120.00. However, thru March 31, 2011 the introductory price is $100.00. Satin black powder coating is an additional $12.50. Shipping within the USA is a flat $10.00. If you are outside of the USA, contact me for a shipping cost. For payments I accept PayPal and money orders. Credit card payments can be made thru PayPal. To place an order, you can send me a PM here on the forum or you can email me at captainfab454 at hotmail dot com.

I would like to thank a former member here, grendel for contacting me about making these brackets, and for supplying a rotor suggestion as well as installed photos.

In a couple of days I will post a pic of the complete package you are purchasing.

Posted via Mobile Device

[Captainfab]

Localmotion74, was there something you had to say??????

[Captainfab]

Ttt

[Greywolf200]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Ttt

New here? What does Ttt mean? Did you ever get pics of the ebrake kit? I've acquired a pair of Eldorado rear calipers.


Thanks,

[Greywolf200]

Originally Posted by Greywolf200

New here? What does Ttt mean? Did you ever get pics of the ebrake kit? I've acquired a pair of Eldorado rear calipers.


Thanks,

Sorry, wrong thread.

[bryce763]

hi what do you me you need to machine down?what area? thanks jason how about shipping to 55330 mn thanks jason

[Captainfab]

The drum/wheel register needs to be machined down from 3.50" to aprox 3.06" to be able to fit the rotor onto the axle flange. This is the area indicated by the red arrow in the pic below.

Minnesota is within the USA so the flat rate shipping of $10.00 applies.

Originally Posted by bryce763

hi what do you me you need to machine down?what area? thanks jason how about shipping to 55330 mn thanks jason

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

.....The drum/wheel register will need machined down to approximately 3.06”. ....

If you are considering this conversion, you might want to look at replacing the old axles. The new axles can be ordered with the correct size drum register.

If you factor in the cost of machining 40+ year old axles, it might be worth applying that expense toward brand new ones. Something to think about if your putting all new parts in the housing.

[Captainfab]

Thanks for bringing this up.

Inspecting your axles is a good idea anytime they are removed from the housing, particularily the axle/wheel bearing surface. With the semi-floating design of the typical GM rear differential, the axle itself is subject to wear, since it is the inner race of the axle/wheel bearing.

If your axles are showing some wear, and you are also looking at upgrading to rear disc brakes, you might consider a set of aftermarket replacement axles. This way you can solve your axle/wheel bearing issue, the hub register issue as well as upgrade to larger 1/2" wheel studs all at the same time.

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

If you are considering this conversion, you might want to look at replacing the old axles. The new axles can be ordered with the correct size drum register.

If you factor in the cost of machining 40+ year old axles, it might be worth applying that expense toward brand new ones. Something to think about if your putting all new parts in the housing.

[tmoble]

instead of turning down the hub why couldn't a guy open up the hole in the rotor?

don't forget guys, you'll need longer studs as the rotor is much thicker than the face of the drum.

[PGSigns]

Turning it down also adds lots more wheels to the list of wheels that will fit. I put torgue thrust 2's on mine and had to do the same thing to get the wheels to fit.
Jimmy

[Captainfab]

There are a couple reasons to turn down the axle flange. One as mentioned by PGSigns, is more wheel selection. Second is if you were to machine the rotors to fit the axle flange, you would have to pay to do this every time you need a new rotor. Granted it won't be that often that you will need to replace the rotors, but just machine the axle flange and only pay once for the machine work. Also as I mentioned in my original post, I recomend upgrading to the larger and longer 1/2" wheel studs. The axle needs to be removed to do this properly, so you might as well have the register on the axle flange turned down while they are out. The rotor is only about 3/16" thicker than the drum. The need for longer wheel studs will depend on the wheels being used.

Originally Posted by tmoble

instead of turning down the hub why couldn't a guy open up the hole in the rotor?

don't forget guys, you'll need longer studs as the rotor is much thicker than the face of the drum.

[Last_Paladin]

Do you have a part number for longer studs? I could use 'em.

[Captainfab]

I don't have a part number with me here at home. The studs I used in the pic above were just stock studs for a '73-'87 C10. I don't have the length of them off hand. How long of studs do you need?

Originally Posted by Last_Paladin

Do you have a part number for longer studs? I could use 'em.

[Captainfab]

The wheel studs I used in the pics above are the replacement studs for the '71-'86 C10's and also the '85-'94 Astro/Safari vans. They are Dorman #610-138 which are 1/2"-20 x 1-17/32" long. These extend past the rotors 15/16". If you want to stay with the original size of 7/17"-20 studs, then use Dorman 610-168. Those are 7/16"-20 x 1-1/2" long.

[m6z]

Is a ebrake an option on these?

[Captainfab]

The '93-'97 F-body rear calipers only come with a built in e-brake.

Originally Posted by m6z

Is a ebrake an option on these?