10 bolt rebuild questions

[mjensen]

So I have my 10 bolt mostly torn apart, and I have some questions. First off, it had a snapped driver's side axle when I bought it (shame on me for assuming) which is why I'm tearing it down. Should I replace both inner and outer axle shafts, or just the broken inner and put a new U Joint in? Also, should I replace the inner seals? I have not torn the r&p out yet, and honestly I'm a little scared to. Should I replace the U Joint on the passenger side. Last one...has anyone had experience with Rugged Ridge locking hubs?


Sorry for the long-winded questions, I'm just curious how deep I should take this rebuild. I am already planning on replacing the ball joints which is another reason I tore it down as far as I did.

[obijuan]

when you slide the axle shafts in you might nick the inner axle seals and cause a leak anyways. its only four more bolts. you dont have to re set gears or anything. remove and replace.
and if you only do one ujoint the other one is gonna laugh at you two weeks later and youll have to change it anyways.
just replace the broken axle shaft. theyre not much to go wrong with those. if they ujoint caps spins in the yoke ear, its bad too. should not be re used.

[mjensen]

Ok, that makes sense. So since it makes sense to pull the diff out to replace the inner seals, it probably makes sense to replace the pinion seal as well right? Does that require anything special other than replacing the crush washer (and setting the drag or whatever it's called)?

[obijuan]

If the pinion seal aint leaking its fine. The pinion assembly requires a crush washer. This is not a remove yoke and seal and replace kind of deal. The crush washer sets pinion bearing preaload and if youre not comfortable setting up gears then id leave it alone. Youre looking for like 18 inch pounds of rotational torque on the pinion.
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[mjensen]

Ok, so pull the diff out and I'm ok. Remove the pinion and I'm screwed. Got it

Thank you for your help on this obijuan!

[obijuan]

In a nutshell yes. While youre in there, take a rag on a broomstick or something and scrape out the inner axle tubes.
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[obijuan]

Also there are left and right bearing caps. And up and down. Mark them with a punch to identify orientation. Also races need to go back on the same side.
They may even be marked already.
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[mjensen]

Thank you for all your insight on this obijuan!! I may even have the balls to attempt this over the weekend

[Bigdav160]

The pinion assembly requires a crush washer. This is not a remove yoke and seal and replace kind of deal.

Show me in the service manual where it says this

Hundred, or perhaps thousands, of pinion seals are replaced every day without a rear axle overhaul.

The trick is putting the pinion nut back where it came off.

[obijuan]

Show me where it says count the threads. Thats not the right way to do it. The op comfort level doesnt seem up to where he wants to chance ruining a crush sleeve. Millions also dont have crush sleeves. If it were a dana 44 id say r&r hammer that pinion nut on.
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[Bigdav160]

A dana 44 has a 10 bolt cover and I think that is what the OP is working on.

So no crush sleeve to worry about.

PS, I don't count threads

[obijuan]

well judging by him saying ten bolt and his build thread has pictures of a ten bolt, its gotta be a dana 44. i guess i just assumed.

[Bigdav160]

I didn't read his build. Doesn't matter anyway.

I did pull out my service manual. You should read it sometime.

[mjensen]

Hey be nice you two :-) it is actually a 10 bolt that I purchased to replace my closed knuckle 44 so that I could get disks on the front. Obijuan is right, I'm not overly excited about having to deal with the preload, but then again I can do anything with the right tools and knowledge from the board

[americanmusc1e]

hey mrjensen I don't know about those rugged ridge locking hubs, but my I got my Mile Marker premium hubs from Amazon for like $75 shipped. Mine are PN 104, but you need to double-check the fitment on yours because I think you have an 8-lug front end.

[mjensen]

Originally Posted by americanmusc1e

hey mrjensen I don't know about those rugged ridge locking hubs, but my I got my Mile Marker premium hubs from Amazon for like $75 shipped. Mine are PN 104, but you need to double-check the fitment on yours because I think you have an 8-lug front end.

Ok, I'll check that route! Thanks!

[LONGHAIR]

I am always the one to caution people about messing with things that affect the set-up of the gears....but I'm with Bigdav160 on this one.
You can change a pinion seal w/o hurting anything.
First of all, the "rotating torque"spec is for "when new", meaning freshly installed. You can actually change the contact pattern by tightening your "used" bearings to that point.
The nice thing about this is that it takes an incredible amount of force to crush the sleeve, more than you would apply when reinstalling the yoke.
I would use a new nut and torque it to 100-125 ftlbs and call it good.

Of course use some common sense here. You are doing this "by hand", so stop if anything "feels different".

[obijuan]

All ten bolt lockouts will swap with internal style dana 44. Theyre 19 splines. I prefer the spicer style hubs myself. Warn premuims are excellent though.

the external style was 8 lug dana 44s from way back. They bolt on with six 1/2" bolts or so.

The internal style is the same lockout from waggoneer, and f150's, 250's l, k5, k10, k20, broncos, dodge dana 44s too.


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[americanmusc1e]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

I am always the one to caution people about messing with things that affect the set-up of the gears....but I'm with Bigdav160 on this one.
You can change a pinion seal w/o hurting anything.
First of all, the "rotating torque"spec is for "when new", meaning freshly installed. You can actually change the contact pattern by tightening your "used" bearings to that point.
The nice thing about this is that it takes an incredible amount of force to crush the sleeve, more than you would apply when reinstalling the yoke.
I would use a new nut and torque it to 100-125 ftlbs and call it good.

Of course use some common sense here. You are doing this "by hand", so stop if anything "feels different".

X2 on this. I feel this would work just fine. Especially on a front diff that doesn't see continuous use anyway. Think of how many miles most normal people drive in 4wd with the hubs locked in compared to the total miles the rear diff gets. When i worked at a mechanics shop I saw mechanics do it and it on a rear diff and it worked just fine. Front diff should be fine.