Supporting engine when removing trans

[MikeB]

I can support the engine by using a 16" scissors jack and 3 pieces of 1.5" thick lumber to to reach up to the oil pan at 20". But that might be kind of wobbly.

Found a few jacks with 24" max lift, but hate to spend $50 for something I'll probably use only once. About 19" lift would be ideal -- jack + a 2x8 to spread the load on the pan.

Truck is a 69 C10 with a 350. Any ideas?

[jimijam00]

Won't the engine mounts support the engine?

[Palf70Step]

Sometimes I will use a tie down strap under the oil pan between the frame rails to add extra stability when yanking a transmission. It's rare, since I am normally alone, that I do an engine and tranny together. I do the tie strap under transmission bell housing if I am doing just engine. Doing it that way means I can push the vehicle around some if need be.

[RustyPile]

In the 30 plus years I worked as a mechanic, I removed hundreds (maybe thousands) transmissions.. I can't remember once having to support the engine due to "wobbling". In almost all cases, I had to move the vehicle to the outside of the building to make room for the next one. The mounts in conjunction with the exhaust system supports the engine just fine. This excludes FWD vehicles.

[MikeB]

Thanks to everyone for the comments. Just remembered that I actually used a tie down once!

Rusty, your comments shed some light on how GM mechanics were able to do it that way. My exhaust manifolds and pipes are in place, so I'll give it a try. Worst case is a buddy of mine has a scissors jack that extends to 24".

My main concerns were twisting the rubber pads on the side mounts or having the fan hit the shroud.

[jimijam00]

What? Why would that happen? You yank the prop, unbolt the transmission, slide it back, and drop it down. That's it.

[kwmech]

The exhaust system usually will hold up the engine enough. If I have to move the car/truck substantially I will either thread in a couple of long 3/8'' bolts into the lower bellhousing bolt holes and set a 2x2 across the frame rails or just use a heavy duty ratchet strap rail to rail. The early 4x4s with the engine stuffed into the firewall need the dist cap loosed so it doesn't get broken.

If you are not moving the truck then what you propose will work just fine and be relatively solid

[HotWheelsFan]

If you did want to support the engine while removing the transmission, you can always use a chain from the top as well.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by jimijam00

What? Why would that happen? You yank the prop, unbolt the transmission, slide it back, and drop it down. That's it.

If you had ever done this, you'd know that the back of a SBC engine will drop somewhat because the side mounts are located well ahead of the engine's center of gravity. This is especially true if the engine has a bellhousing, flywheel, and clutch. Probably not so bad with an auto trans, but I have always supported the engine one way or another.

Thanks to the guys with helpful comments and suggestions.

[jimijam00]

Originally Posted by MikeB

If you had ever done this...

Yeah, I have done this. So why the question since you have allegedly also and know all about this [non] issue? Maybe you were asking another question? Either way, enjoy your say sir.

[HO455]

Worst-case scenario is the motor mounts are broken and the exhaust pipes are paper thin. Then the engine falls backwards and breaks the shroud, the fan hits the radiator, the distributor cap gets broken and oil pan gets crushed exactly 37 minutes after you pull the transmission.

I'm not pessimistic, I've just spent a lot of years working on junk.
It's always better to be safe than sorry in my world.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by HO455

Worst-case scenario is the motor mounts are broken and the exhaust pipes are paper thin. Then the engine falls backwards and breaks the shroud, the fan hits the radiator, the distributor cap gets broken and oil pan gets crushed exactly 37 minutes after you pull the transmission.

I'm not pessimistic, I've just spent a lot of years working on junk.
It's always better to be safe than sorry in my world.

Exactly ! Using a floor jack under the pan with a board to spread the weight is just easier and safer . it can help realign everything when it's going back together when your laying on your back on the garage floor .

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by jimijam00

So why the question since you have allegedly also and know all about this [non] issue?

Why did I ask the question? To get some ideas because it's been years since I've pulled a TH350 trans. What I do remember is having to support the rear of the engine, and what I learned here is the exhaust pipes were probably not installed.

Non-issue? That's not the case as you can see from the responses in this thread. Also, Google this: "support for Chevy V-8 when removing transmission." There sure is a lot of discussion about this "non-issue."

[72SB]

OP

My $.02...having done this a few dozen times over several vehicles I have or had.

Any type of jack, floorstand, etc to support the motor from under the pan is ideal vs just letting the motor hang from motor mounts and exhaust. If your MM are not yet separated, letting engine hand from them will typically F them up

Yes there are some, including working mechanics who just yank trans and let engine dangle from MM or exhaust. Not what "I" would do.

Ratchet strap under to frame rail, board, whatever so car can be moved around if needed are all good solutions.

[Grumpy old man]

I have to say That NOT everyone in here is a professional mechanic with professional tools / A lift / and Many are first time owners of a classic truck , when we give advice we all need to remember that many of the people in here have never touched a jack or a set of jack stands in their life , They come here looking for advice and many follow what they read word for word and I think that we all should support SAFETY as the most important aspect of working on these old trucks more so than any other advice we can give . "you" may be the most experienced mechanic or restorer in here and fast isn't always the best idea when we're dealing with procedures that quite possible could get someone killed or seriously injured if done wrong . Think safety first !

[special-K]

I always support the back of the engine. I'm not a mechanic, I've just worked on my own stuff all my life. I'm more of a 'thorough' kind of guy when I can be. It bugs me when all the weight just hangs there

[jimijam00]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Why did I ask the question?

[tdangle]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

I have to say That NOT everyone in here is a professional mechanic with professional tools / A lift / and Many are first time owners of a classic truck , when we give advice we all need to remember that many of the people in here have never touched a jack or a set of jack stands in their life , They come here looking for advice and many follow what they read word for word and I think that we all should support SAFETY as the most important aspect of working on these old trucks more so than any other advice we can give . "you" may be the most experienced mechanic or restorer in here and fast isn't always the best idea when we're dealing with procedures that quite possible could get someone killed or seriously injured if done wrong . Think safety first !

Well said!

[MikeandCheryl]

I agree too. This group that supports the 67-72 question period varies between expert and novice. Some have made their living repairing the stuff I've never seen apart. Questions are good. Good answers are even better.
And for the record, good or bad, removing the transmission, transfer case and such from my truck caused my engine to sag, like 4 inches. who knows what the condition of the motor mounts were. So i jammed a 4x4 between the floor jack and the edge of the block and supported it. Easy fix.

[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by special-K

I always support the back of the engine. I'm not a mechanic, I've just worked on my own stuff all my life. I'm more of a 'thorough' kind of guy when I can be. It bugs me when all the weight just hangs there

[Mike Bradbury]

I have used the jack method because it is quick and easy for removal but typically hydraulic jacks will droop after a while and unless you are removing and replacing the same day, best to have a jack stand or some other device that will not sag while you are sleeping and you wake up to find ripped motor mounts.

Remember the ratchet strap method will work on either side of the engine motor mount. Think of the motor mount like the fulcrum on a teeter totter. if the rear of the engine is will sag with no transmission support then the front of the engine will lift. A ratchet strap at the back of the engine will need to be under the pan or flywheel. But if that is getting in the way of transmission install, then a ratchet strap in front of the engine mounts pulling down will also accomplish the same task of balancing the engine.

It goes without saying (or maybe not) don't cheap out on the ratchet straps. buy yourself a good quality strap that is not going to let go on you during the process.

Having a strap or chain does give you the ability to move your truck around the garage if the rebuild process takes more time than you were expecting.