'01 Silverado sluggish starting

[C-Notes]

I have a '01 Silverado 2500 and when I go to start it, it is sluggish and doesn't turn over right away. It takes a couple of key turns before it'll fire up. I had the battery tested and he said it was fine, so I'm assuming it is the starter.

Question: I've replaced the starter on my '70 C-10 a bunch of times but never on a truck this new. Is there certain things I should watch out for or specific tools that I'm gonna need to do this?? Is it pretty much the same process?? Thanks in advance for any advise.

[bcj67chevy]

should be able to change just as easy. If it still starts hard after changing the starter then check the battery cables for corrosion.

[C-Notes]

Thanks for the info.

Is there a way to check to see if it is the starter before I go through the process of changing it and find out it could be the cables??

[Crummy]

Original battery? Cold weather can drain the cold cranking amps.

[C-Notes]

It's all the time really, even in the afternoon sun. We don't have cold weather here.

[jsbgump]

Might be a loose connection or a corrosion issue

[bcj67chevy]

No way to check the starter on the truck, but you could take it off and take to a local parts store and have them check it.

[N2TRUX]

Check all your connections and look at your cables for splits where corrision can hide. Is it the original battery? If it is, it could just be the battery. They are good for 2-3 years but sometimes last longer.

[C-Notes]

Thanks for all the info. I talked to my dad over the weekend, he's a retired mechanic and he said to check my spark plugs, probably the original ones in there he said.

The battery itself looks pretty dirty and the cables look good, no corrosion on the ends at all. I'm not the original owner so I don't know if it's the original battery or not.

[turbochevy]

If you have checked all of the above and the problem continues, more than likely it is your fuel pressure regulator. This is the problem each time I run into that complaint at the shop.

[C-Notes]

Thanks for the info.

I've noticed something else, recently. When I go to start it, it just whirrr whirrr whirrrs and if I stop and try to start it again it does the same thing. But if I try to start it and it just whirrs and I turn the key completely off and try it again, starts up first turn. I'm not sure if that makes sense to anyone but I'm not sure how else to explain it. Thanks again.

[kaycee]

Well if it don't engauge the first time then it does after a few tries then I would look and see if the starter is still tight to block. Sounds like the starter to me

[C-Notes]

Well, I changed the spark plugs, fuel filter and added a fuel injector cleaner to my latest fill-up and that hasn't changed the starting issues at all. I'm gonna take it in and have the battery checked again by a different AutoZone and maybe get under there this weekend and look at the starter.

Thanks to everybody for their input and knowledge.

[C-Notes]

Had my dad look at it. He says it's the ignition switch in the steering column. He said it should be real easy to fix.

Anybody have any experience with this and have some tips or things I should like out for? I don't have to worry about the airbag going off do I??

[bcj67chevy]

Why would it be the igntion switch, all the ignition switch does is put 12 volts tot the s terminal on the starter, if it the truck is hard starting then it is getting power.

[C-Notes]

I'm not exactly sure, but the way he explained it to me was "there is a connection inside the steering column where the ignition goes into and it's not making that connection, so take out these three screws unplug the switch and plug the new one back in." I haven't had a chance to get in there yet so I'm still not sure on what he means.

[72Blazer San Jose CA]

Does the engine crank over normal but does not start? Or does it crank over very slow? Put a volt meter on the battery and crank over engine if it stays above 9.6V battery and starter probably ok. Now if it cranks over ok but takes a few times to start that may be your fuel pump assembly in tank.
Put a fuel pressure tester at the test port on the fuel rail. Pressure when the
the key is turn to on position should be around 40PSI and hold if it drops the fuel is draining back to fuel tank then needs to crank over to reprime fuel line.
Other ways to loose pressure right away is injector stuck open or fuel regulator stays open.

Carlos

[C-Notes]

Thanks for the advice. I don't have a volt meter or a fuel pressure tester, but I'll see what I can come up with.