Starting 1966 Factory Short Bed Build, Bagged, 383 Stroker and Muncie M20 4-Speed

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Oh yeah, you definitely want to be able to adjust/isolate each corner independently.

Since you have lowering blocks, OE style T/A's & larger diameter wheels, you can always do a taller block if you need more psi in the bag for ride quality. The taller block adds more drop so you add more air psi to get things back to where you were w/a shorter block.

It's not recommended on smaller diameter wheels because of Scrub-Line concerns but you should be ok since you're not using 15's/stock steel wheels.

Good info. Thanks again.

[88Stanger]

So, this weekend i will have more updates.
After some great help and suggestions on this site, Scoti and CaptainFab, i have a long and bent pan hard bar coming, a new rack and pinion system, rubber snubs for axle, new rear shocks, battery, wires, and a few other minor pieces. I would love to have the frame mobile this weekend, God Willing.

[0ldSoul]

Awesome. Looking forward to seeing what you think of that no frame modification rack and pinion setup, sounds intriguing..

[SCOTI]

Interesting read.....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=804452

[Corts60]

Excellent work! Very nice detail on everything. Just read through your thread; can't wait to see it all come together!

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Corts60

Excellent work! Very nice detail on everything. Just read through your thread; can't wait to see it all come together!

Thank you sir, i appreciate it. Hopefully i can help someone with what i am doing.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by 0ldSoul

Awesome. Looking forward to seeing what you think of that no frame modification rack and pinion setup, sounds intriguing..

So, you were interested in how it went? Well it went as smooth as i could have asked for! I was amazed! 4 large bots and tada.... its in and done.
Now honestly, it took me about an hour to just get it installed, figuring out what holes to use for the mount. Basically, i was trying to make it alot harder than it was. LOL I Laughed at myself once i figured it out.
So, here are multiple pics of the install....

[88Stanger]

a few more bolt in power rack

[88Stanger]

a few more

[88Stanger]

last couple

[88Stanger]

The Rack and Pinion is a powered Rack that is truly bolt in. I got it from POL (Performance Online) and here is part number and link:
https://www.performanceonline.com/19...nd-Pinion-Kit/

Cost is just around $900.00 without hose kit.

[SCOTI]

Looks like a simple/clean install.

What rack model is utilized? Tie-rod ends?
Those are wearables that you need to know the ID for when you perform future service replacement work.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Looks like a simple/clean install.

What rack model is utilized? Tie-rod ends?
Those are wearables that you need to know the ID for when you perform future service replacement work.

great point, ill ask

[88Stanger]

ok, so i emailed POL on the rack and the parts associted and ask if i ever need to replace parts, what do i use, here i response:

Thanks for your interest in our products. It will be hard to replace direct as the inner tie rod ends are machined special.
Rack is from a mid 90's Dodge Dakota. Outer tie rod ends are for the 1963-70 Chevy c10

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 88Stanger

ok, so i emailed POL on the rack and the parts associted and ask if i ever need to replace parts, what do i use, here i response:

Thanks for your interest in our products. It will be hard to replace direct as the inner tie rod ends are machined special.
Rack is from a mid 90's Dodge Dakota. Outer tie rod ends are for the 1963-70 Chevy c10

I would ask for clarification on this info (after you provide your purchase info so they don't think you're trying to scam them). Point being, this is a non-stock part that you're building your steering set-up around. Should POL go out of business somehow/someway, you need a Plan-B if yours wears or becomes compromised.

Just glancing, it looks like maybe they're using adapters as the sleeve between the inner/out TRE. Maybe that's what he was referring to & what you'd want to clarify.

[0ldSoul]

Yeah that looks so good! Coming together very nicely!!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I would ask for clarification on this info (after you provide your purchase info so they don't think you're trying to scam them). Point being, this is a non-stock part that you're building your steering set-up around. Should POL go out of business somehow/someway, you need a Plan-B if yours wears or becomes compromised.

Just glancing, it looks like maybe they're using adapters as the sleeve between the inner/out TRE. Maybe that's what he was referring to & what you'd want to clarify.

Quick look-up shows the inner as part of the R&P ('96 2wd model). Moog does show a replacement for inner & outer but the inners are a different deal vs. just swapping inner/outer TRE's on the original style steering.

My bet is they are just using a machined sleeve/adapter of the correct size/thread pitch that the correct C10 spindle outer TRE will thread into. Either modifying the inners length or accommodating the dimension into the adapter sleeve.

[Paul Y]

Hi Jeff,

Good to see the chassis member in place and looks good powder coated in red.

Tried to respond to your DM but your mail box is full.

Want to arrange a good time to call.

P.

[Captainfab]

I think you are correct. IMO that aluminum sleeve looks a little thin where the outer TRE screws in. Plus I would think there would be a jamb nut there.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Quick look-up shows the inner as part of the R&P ('96 2wd model). Moog does show a replacement for inner & outer but the inners are a different deal vs. just swapping inner/outer TRE's on the original style steering.

My bet is they are just using a machined sleeve/adapter of the correct size/thread pitch that the correct C10 spindle outer TRE will thread into. Either modifying the inners length or accommodating the dimension into the adapter sleeve.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I think you are correct. IMO that aluminum sleeve looks a little thin where the outer TRE screws in. Plus I would think there would be a jamb nut there.

Yes. Adapters get a jam nut to keep the TRE's from moving/loosening once assembled & aligned.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Hi Jeff,

Good to see the chassis member in place and looks good powder coated in red.

Tried to respond to your DM but your mail box is full.

Want to arrange a good time to call.

P.

should be good now. Sorry about that

[67C10GS]

loving this build, you're doing most of what i want to do to mine so i cant wait to see it done.

[88Stanger]

Originally Posted by 67C10GS

loving this build, you're doing most of what i want to do to mine so i cant wait to see it done.

Well Thank you. If you have any questions please let me know.

[88Stanger]

ok, installed the front disc brake kit, all part of CPP lower kit. Also, trying to snug fit the air lines for the air bags.

[88Stanger]

New Rear Disc Brake kit from Master Brakes, great company, great stuff, perfect fit and good customer support
First couple pics of mounts, you will notice i have the the Driver side on pass and Pass on Driver... lol they were swapped.
Aslo, caliper are painted red of course