47-59 Tech Tips and Tricks-Post your favorites!

[daveshilling]

Hey Gang, we've seen some amazing tips, how-to's and tricks buried deep in 90 page build threads, old posts, etc... let's make a home for them all!

You can post yours here directly, or share the link from another post by right clicking the post number in the right-hand corner and paste it here as a link.

Good Tips to Include:

"why didnt I think of that" techniques that someone can do without large expensive tools
Modifying a tool to work better,
Making your own upgrades from junkyard/factory parts, i.e. DIY Disc brake conversion

Tips to leave out:

Safety Advice
Buying the right tool for the job
Highly customized items that require large, expensive machines most people dont own (unless you want to make them for us)


A couple of my own:

DIY Almost-Free Twist-Lok press on fuel line fitting tool
Cheap Billet Aluminum fuel line mounts

Welding Tech Tips:

Extending Butt Welding clamps to level a panel on both sides
How to cleanly plug weld in thin metal to thick metal and trunk panels
How to use Cleco's to butt-weld
Use sockets to measure and template your firewall hole plugs


Suspension Tech Tips:
Separate your ball joints without a pickle fork or extra tools
How to press things in and out without an actual press

[mr48chev]

I'm going to have to figure out how to bookmark the hose clamp one. I'm looking into buying a kit car body to use with my 1.6 DOHC 16 Valve four banger that is in a car of mine that got totaled a while back. Beyond OT for here though.

[MiraclePieCo]

How about this for a tip:

I've ruined two windshields and one brand-new seat with grinder sparks. Hot grinder sparks melt into glass the instant they touch it. Don't be like me. Cover your upholstery and windows when you grind.

[Driver_WT]

My tailgate on my 53 Chevy truck fit onto the hinge quite sloppily. So I made two discs out of Delrin plastic and mounted them on a long threaded rod that went across the width of the tailgate where the hinges connect. The Delrin discs fit into the tailgate hinges and now the tailgate fits very snugly into the tailgate hinge.

[vvp step side]

MR48 chevy it looks like you have a lot going on!
With what you are doing do you know if there is a body mounting kit available to mount 48-50 body style to a S-10 frame? I found a kit a while ago but they have since gone out of business not sure why. Any leads on another supplier would very appreciated.
thank you for your time VVP step side.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by vvp step side

With what you are doing do you know if there is a body mounting kit available to mount 48-50 body style to a S-10 frame? I found a kit a while ago but they have since gone out of business not sure why. Any leads on another supplier would very appreciated.
thank you for your time VVP step side.

Talk to skymangs in the S10 chassis swap forum. He sells a body mount kit.

S10 How-To Forum: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=632686

Skymangs Profile page: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/member.php?u=82736

[mick53]

I wanted to get ARP 12 point bolts with safety wire holes in them. For those who may not know ARP (American Racing Products) bolts are very hard and designed to be re-torqued multiple times. The threads are rolled in instead of cut. They are above aircraft standards. They are also pricey. I couldn't find any so I called their rep I met at PRI show. He said no such animal existed. He said there was no way to drill them without a very expensive machine. He said even then you would have to drill the center of the head to relieve it first. It's just not going to happen. So perfect for me. I have all the jigs for safety wire drilling but it was way too much stick out on the bit to get through the jig and it would snap right away. I was using cobalt 1/16" bits. I couldn't get it to start straight and it would snap. I took a 1/8" round bottom end mill and made a divot. The problem then was after carefully drilling about 2/3 of the way through one little chip would catch and snap. I wasted a couple of bolts and many bits trying. I put it in the rotary vice and drilled half way through from both sides. After doing my happy dance with the hounds it occurred to me that I had 3 bolts and at least one of them would need 2 wires going through it and the standard 90 deg. offset would not work so I drilled my holes offset up and down so they did not connect. success on all 3 bolts without breaking any more bits. FYI there are no 1/16" cobalt drill bits left in stock within 50 miles of my house. People say it can't be done until it is. Sorry so long. Thank you for your time.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

How about this for a tip:

I've ruined two windshields and one brand-new seat with grinder sparks. Hot grinder sparks melt into glass the instant they touch it. Don't be like me. Cover your upholstery and windows when you grind.

I really like these blankets, they are really thin so they are easy to work with. And of course, welding, MIG welding, those little metal balls that get thrown when it "pops" can go a LONG way and stick right on the glass!

Brian

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10908A-.../dp/B0057RJD0E

[MARTINSR]

Here is a tip that I randomly just posted on facebook from the Hotrodders forum. I can't believe I posted it there 16 years ago! Wow time flies! It may say "floor welding" tip but it really is for just about any time you are plug welding. At least for how you lay the weld "fast and hot."

“Basics of Basic” Floor welding tip
By Brian Martin

This tip isn’t only for welding in floors, it can be used anytime. But it works the best when plug welding a thin sheet metal to a thicker brace, frame or whatever. Welding trunk floors into late model cars that have been rear-ended is common practice these days. Just a light hit on the rear of most late model cars will result in a badly crumpled floor and a frame rail or two needing to be replaced. After welding in many of these cars and always having a problem with keeping the floor nice and flat against the rails while welding, I came up with this trick that really works well for me.

I used to lay the floor and align it, then mark the underside around the edges of the cross members and rails with a sharpie. Remove the floor and punch all the holes around the edges of that line I made so I could plug weld the floor to in. I have some real nice punches with a long reach and I would drill the ones I couldn’t reach. This required cleaning up the back of the holes of burs and spraying some weld thru primer and what not, a lot of prep work. But I thought I was slicker than snot doing it this way, the thing sat back in there with a row of holes all the way around right in the right place and it really looked good. Until I started welding, no matter how nice I could do a plug weld, on these floors the darn thing would always come up a little around the holes as I welded and it looked like crap once done.

The solution is not only produces a better end product, but it is much easier. What I now do is to align the floor into place. I will hold the floor in with a sheet metal screw here and there just as before (later welding the hole up) but now I put them where ever I can draw a straight line from screw to screw or at least be able to know exactly where the rail or cross member is beneath the floor. I then mark it ON TOP of the floor where the holes need to be to plug weld it in. So, I have a nice floor pan with no ecoat removed, no grinding, no drilling, just a nice new pan sitting there on top of the rails. The rails by the way were cleaned with a Maroon Roloc surface-conditioning disc and a weld thru primer was applied.

I now drill a few holes thru the floor pan and a little into the rail. I use a killer spot weld drill I get from our fastener supplier (Winzer). They cut a shallow hole so I don’t cut thru the rail, but they have a pilot tip that is like an 1/8” drill to keep it where I want it as it starts. And they drill VERY fast. They are 8mm (about 5/16”) in diameter.

Soooooo, these few holes are now drilled, I have perfectly clean metal in the rail to weld to, the metal is a little thinned by the drill so I can get good penetration with a nice fast, hot weld! I weld these welds very hot and fast leaving a super clean flat weld on the top side. PLUS, the weld is so hot and fast that the surrounding floor pan doesn’t lift up from the heat as it did before. After a few welds, I drill a few more holes and weld them up, and on and on until it is done, skipping around side to side and even walking away and doing something else now and then to let it cool off.

I use this same method on radiator supports to the frame, when ever I am welding a thin metal to a thicker one. It produces a cleaner plug weld than anything I have ever tried when welding a thin metal to a thicker one. Plus, less corrosion protection is burnt off.

[dsraven]

if you love cleco's, and butt welding, you can still use cleco's.

where you want to put the cleco on the edge of the butt weld, file a small 1/2 circle on both pieces so it lines them up correctly as needed and is big enough so if it was a complete hole the cleco would fit and still leave the butt weld gapped for welding. a small chainsaw file works ok. fit the pieces together (a helper is good to have) and then take a flat washer, of the correct size hole to fit the cleco properly, and have a helper hold it, tack it in place or glue/tape it to the back side so it lines up with the cleco hole. now the cleco will fit through and hold the pieces at the correct level and gap so you can tack weld them. if it is a "blind hole" scenario the small washer will simply fall inside or be held with the tack weld/glue/tape. if you want a small washer with the correct size cleco hole you could drill the correct size hole in a piece of scrap and then use the hole punch (centering is a bit tough but we have had tougher jobs, right?) to make a washer out of it or use a set of snips to cut around the hole.

[joedoh]

I just used this one last night.

when you want to separate a balljoint on an IFS spindle, dont use a pickle fork that will ruin the boot, and you dont need a fancy balljoint separator either. doing it this way you can replace the spindle or the upper a arm without taking the spring out!

put the truck/frame on stands

put a jack under the lower arm and jack it just slightly, enough to lift the lower arm but not the truck/frame.

take out your cotter pins and loosen the upper and lower balljoint nuts if you are replacing the spindle (or if you are replacing the upper arm, just the upper). you want about a 1/4" gap between the nut and the spindle.

lower the jack so it is just under the arm, not touching, about 1/2" away.

hit the SPINDLE at the balljoint you want to break loose. DO NOT HIT THE BALLJOINT OR THE CASTLE NUT, you will ruin them. Hit it right at the part of the spindle that is holding the balljoint. dont be afraid of it, hit it like it owes you money, you arent hurting it.

after a couple whacks, the balljoint will break loose of the taper and the spring tension will force the gap you left to be closed. this is what you want. check and see if the jack is still not touching the lower arm, lower it a little if needed and repeat for the second balljoint.

raise the jack so that the tension is off the balljoint nuts, you will almost be able to unscrew them by hand.


click to play. on the fifth whack you can see the spindle drop slightly, that is the 1/4" gap closing from spring tension.

IMG_6323 by Rooty Tooty, on Flickr

if you are replacing the spindle or the upper arm/balljoint, you can do it with the jack under the arm holding the spring tension. if you are replacing the spring you can take the spindle off and lower the jack slowly to release the tension. BE CAREFUL WITH SPRING TENSION. know where the tension is, either on the jack or on the balljoint nuts! I usually throw a length of chain through the spring, it keeps it from jumping out of the pocket at you when you lower the arm completely.

I usually take the balljoint nuts all the way off when I get them loose the first time, just to make sure the threads are clean, then PUT THEM BACK ON to leave the 1/4" gap. because if there is dirt in the threads it may not want to come off without turning the balljoint.

I did this last night, bought drop spindles with spindle chunks (loaded calipers and rotors and bearings) for cheap because it was "pull it yourself". I got spindles, shocks, drop blocks, and a driveshaft in about an hour.

[1project2many]

Do you really need a press?

I have spent most of my professional career working in shops without a press. I manage to complete many tasks that folks will tell you absolutely need a press. Here are some of the strategies I use:

1) Always try to apply equal pressure to an item being pressed. Many bearings can be removed by using two pry bars to apply pressure equally and a hammer to tap on the shaft or houring the bearing is pressed into. Applying unequal pressure can cause an item to become wedged. If this happens, attempt to un-wedge the item with a punch or other tool to straighten it on the shaft or in the housing.

2) Many bearings or bushings or other pressed parts coming out will ultimately be discarded. In these cases it may be possible to cut the part being discarded to relieve pressure from the press fit. The item will come of easily. Pinion inner bearings and carrier bearings are great examples of this. Use a cutoff wheel to cut diagonally across the bearing inner race until you are within a couple of thousandths of the shaft. Then use a chisel and hammer to split the race.

3) Pipes, sockets, and even bearing races previously removed can be used as installers to allow one to install a bearing with a hammer. I've found it's much easier to use a heavier hammer than a light one. The heavy hammer has more mass and provides the same "hit" as a light hammer swung hard. The light hammer requires swinging with more force which can take away from accuracy.


4) Installing bearings can often be accomplished with just a punch and hammer. The hardest part can be starting the bearing. Sometimes it helps to turn the hammer sideways to tap on both sides of the bearing at the same time. Once the bearing is started you can use the punch lined up with the shaft to tap the bearing into place. It takes practice to be able to hold the punch steady and to hit it with the hammer evenly but folks often get the hang of it pretty quickly. I usually end up with the punch touching the shaft in order to get the end of the punch square to the bearing. In the beginning it can help to move the punch from one side to the other, every other tap, to prevent the bearing from cocking.

5) Support your work! When driving or tapping to install or remove a pressed part, the supporting structure is part of the process. Choosing a concrete floor over a work bench can actually create problems. The concrete floor does little to absorb shock so you're more likely to break something or make flying chips than using a wood or metal bench. Placing a 2X4 on concrete generally produces more consistent results.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by vvp step side

MR48 chevy it looks like you have a lot going on!
With what you are doing do you know if there is a body mounting kit available to mount 48-50 body style to a S-10 frame? I found a kit a while ago but they have since gone out of business not sure why. Any leads on another supplier would very appreciated.
thank you for your time VVP step side.

FNG with 6 posts tells Mr48 Chev about the great "
S-10 Swap) and the other guys reading this hurt themselves rolling around on the floor laughing. The only viable reasons to use and S-10 frame are that you don't have a good solid 3100 short wheelbase frame available or you can't afford one from Morrison or another custom builder. They have their place but I am not trying to build a cheap truck that everyone on the planet will view as a cheap build after it is done.

[mr48chev]

Along with the cover the good stuff up before grinding anywhere close to it cover any fresh paint before drilling holes to mount things after it is painted. My buddy had his truck painted back in the 70's and then took it to the upholstery shop to have the tonneau cover put on and when they drilled the holes to fasten the snaps on the sides of the bed the cuttings from drilling burned right into the paint.

[mr48chev]

On thing that I made has been real handy for me in the past few years. I got one of those duplex boxes from the hardware store and put two pairs of plug ins in it . I picked up a roll of 12-3 SO cord from Lowes along with a good plug in and hooked the box to a stand I made with a piece of square tubing and an old brake rotor. I use it every time I do anything that requires electrical tools like and angle grinder or drill. It lets me have more than one plugged in and be able to switch. The SO cord is the most expensive part but it doesn't take long to wonder why you didn't always have one.

[MiraclePieCo]

When marking the pillars for a top chop, it's common practice to use masking tape as a cutting guide. Always place the tape on the INSIDE of the cut, so the outer edge marks the OUTSIDE of the cut; if you mark the inside of the cut and accidentally cut the outside...oops, your roof is now 2" lower than you wanted it.

[mr48chev]

My butt welded with gas welding chop has held up for 39 years but this time around I am am following the suggestion to remove a layer of the posts so I can cut the posts and weld on the inside and then fit that section back and weld it in to have a far stronger connection.

One thing I have stressed several times before is to fit the doors so that the gaps are perfect before you ever mark the first cut and after making that the cab is sitting perfectly square on what ever it is sitting on brace the cab so it doesn't move when you cut the top off.

[mr48chev]

I know some guys are down on HF stuff but one of those aluminum 1-1/2 ton "race jacks" is a great "here lift this, hold this right here" little buddy that doesn't whine or fuss. I use mine for just about everything except lifting cars with. Beats the tar out of lugging that 90 lb 3 ton to do something that you just don't need the big jack for.

[jaws61]

For fill the 50 plus holes in the fire wall I, used my socket set to figure out that size the hole was than used it as a template on a piece of sheet metal, . then welding it in with magnet behind it..only took me 30 times before I came up with that idea..🤣

[mr48chev]

Dang Joedoe, I figured you would have known that for years. I learned how to do it in Autoshop in the 60's and then did it a lot in the 70's when I was doing front end work every day. I try to never use a Pickle fork on a ball joint or tie rod end that I plan to use again.

It works on tie rod ends but you want to hit dead center on the end of the steering arm.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I usually take the balljoint nuts all the way off when I get them loose the first time, just to make sure the threads are clean, then PUT THEM BACK ON to leave the 1/4" gap. because if there is dirt in the threads it may not want to come off without turning the balljoint.

Now that's a good one I never thought of.

[dsraven]

Ball joints, tie rod ends, do the miracle pie trick, with lube , then take your 2 largest hammers and hit the casting on both sides at the same time. They usually pop right out.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Dang Joedoe, I figured you would have known that for years. I learned how to do it in Autoshop in the 60's and then did it a lot in the 70's when I was doing front end work every day. I try to never use a Pickle fork on a ball joint or tie rod end that I plan to use again.

It works on tie rod ends but you want to hit dead center on the end of the steering arm.

I have used it for years, I even mention it to friends when they want to borrow a pickle fork. they nod and then go buy a pickle fork. so I send them the video. they say "that must not have been on very good". cant help some people I guess.

for tie rods you can put a block of wood on the top after taking the nuts off and whack the block with the sledge. no damage, takes it right out.

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I know some guys are down on HF stuff but one of those aluminum 1-1/2 ton "race jacks" is a great "here lift this, hold this right here" little buddy that doesn't whine or fuss. I use mine for just about everything except lifting cars with. Beats the tar out of lugging that 90 lb 3 ton to do something that you just don't need the big jack for.

I like having plenty of helpers named jack too. but the all aluminum jacks arent all aluminum any longer, only the frame (and other parts like the handle I guess) is aluminum, the lift arm is steel now. it makes a diff in the weight and rusts like my other steel jacks.

[1project2many]

FWIW I spent years beating the hell out of myself and front end parts. It's loud. It's damaging to the parts. It can be painful if you miss. And after enough years it's painful even if you don't miss. Now I prefer tools like these:



I have an OTC kit but there are less expensive versions out there. It's definitely worth the purchase price.

Also, the small tool in the lower left corner is great for removing Chrysler wiper arms.

[dsraven]

if you're adding sheet metal to a panel, like a longer piece to add length etc, those little butt joint clamps are great. if you use a long length of key stock the same size as the little piece in the clamp it can help keep things lined up by connecting 2 of the clamps on the same key stock length, one on each side of the inserted repair panel. see pic for better explanation.
when doing welds on large panels ensure to keep the heat down by doing short welds and also plannish each hot spot, right after that spot has been welded, to keep shrinkage/warpage to a minimum. don't do another weld until the whole panel has cooled off enough to be room temp. I use compressed air from a distance to cool the whole panel after it has had a chance to initially cool naturally first. it's a good idea to have another project on the go at the same time so you're not temped to weld again too soon. this is a pic of my roof panel.